Hello everyone,
I am looking at a sliding table that is for sale at a good price. It is the 35-444. I need the ability to crosscut cabinet panels and shelves quickly and accurately. My question is, from yalls experience will this attachment be worth it? I size a lot of large panels and worry about the sliding table getting in the way. It looks like I will have to narrow my outfeed table so it dosent interfere with the sliding table, also the instructions say that the slideing table needs to be a little higher than the machine table, seems these could cause problems cutting large panels when not using the slider. I really want a big old RAS but am out of space for now. What would you do?
Thanks,
Mike
Replies
Sliding tables are much more useful on a shaper than a tablesaw. Could you make a sled instead?
Benchdog,
I made a sled big enough a couple of years ago. It was absurd. To support a part that big the sled was to big and unwieldy.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
Mike,
Is there any way your supplier can cut them to size? I've been doing this for a year now, the first cut's free and every consequent cut's 50 cents! Pretty cheap!
The suppliers I use are very large and don't offer that kind of service. I can't imagine any large yard doing it. Are you talking about Home Depot? Besides I have trust issues. VERY few large shops have the same tolerances we stick to in mine. I also hate hauling stuff around and waiting for others to do it.
Thanks,
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
Home Depot? Never! Not even for screws.
I buy everything at Owl Hardwood (Chicago area), before I go, I have a cut list ready.
They guarantee the cuts within 1/32", pretty accurate for casework. So far so good!
Thats great service. I've been mulling it over and I think that I still want a Radial Arm Saw. An old big one that will cross cut 24".
Thanks,
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
Thank you to all who replied.
I really don't think I can give up the support on the left side when ripping panels. I think I will still keep looking for more space in my shop for a RAS.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
I fail to see how you can do without sliding table for the jobs you mentioned.
They suggest it is higher to stop drag,I find it is ok to have it level.
Cicero,
You sound like you must be from Europe. I know that sliding tables are considered necessary there. when cutting cabinet parts to size I have enough against the fence to make it work. The problem is that if the sides are out of square I have no way to fix it. I really want a big Radial Arm Saw. I simply don't have the space now. I figured that was why the table is to be set higher. Seems like the drag would be tolerable. I was reading reviews of that set on Amazon and it sounds like it may not be so well made. Really my biggest concern is giving up the left wing and that part of the outfeed table.
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
Mike you are talking to the worlds worst speller,I use this tool...http://www.iespell.com/  
I am from NZ Mike and have a Scheppach TKU,it doesnt look much but it is brilliant,the panel cutting part folds down and the sliding table comes off.
I make the doors slightly bigger than I want,then cut on the panel facilty which makes it paralell,then using the sliding table cut required size.It is in effect a mini panel saw.
Hope I haven't bored you to death.
Regards BJ
http://www.jacks.co.nz/panelsaws.html
BJ,
Not bored at all. I love to talk tools! That is an interesting tool. I am fascinated by the different tools availible over seas. I can't imagine croscutting a 1.5 meter by 30 cm. shelf on that machine.
How did you like my use of metric?
Mikeplease excuse my spelling.
Boy, after looking at the link that Holytech TC12 looks familiar, doesn't it?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Ha ha,very good re metrics.Wood workers talk in mm,so that would be 1500 x300(pity the message dosen't come up so that I could remember if you said 30cm)I was brought up on imperial but find metric quite good,don't miss 7 and 15/16thinch.
The saw handles all my needs with ease including 1500x 300.
The saw by the way cost me about $1000 us,3hp motor very nice.
We only have 240v ac here apart of course from 3 phase,which I have for my old(50) 9inch Wadkin buzzer.
Hi Mike, I looked a sliding table attachment for my US tablesaw and gave up. From what I gathered the aftermarket ones just don't cut it.
With the European style machines The sliding table goes right by the blade. There is no table friction. If I was younger and serious about woodworking in a small shop I'd get a European type machine.
I'm going to make a large sled. It might be cumbersome but it will crosscut accurately.
The Excaliber works fine and is accurate but you gotta baby it a bit. Laguna has a heavy duty add on one and was it Felder who had a little smaller one but it was reported to be very accurate. Have you seen the http://www.8020.net stuff and similar. At least half a dozen similar companies around. Not the cheapest but not as bad as you think. Been tinkering with some very successfully. the Exactor is also good. I know folks with most of the ones I mentioned. Still far more accurate than a radial arm saw in my experience. Nice to be able to cut 60". Can't do that on a RAS.
Edited 2/17/2005 9:31 am ET by rick3ddd
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