Delta 37-190 Jointer – outfeed table adjustment

My Delta 37-190 jointer refuses to cut the last inch or so of the trailing edge of a board. I think the far end of the outfeed table needs to be raised a bit. The out feed table appears to co-planner planner with the in feed table when I check it with a straight edge. However, I’m hesitant to do try raising the end this thinking that I’d probably screw things up even more than they already are. If anyone has suggestions on how to properly do this or correct the error I’d appreciate it.
Thanks! 🙂
Replies
Check if its parrallel to the infeed table first.
Yes when I check with a straight edge, they appear to be level/co-planner with each other. I updated the post.
Then its your technique, you need to get the pressure on the outfeed table early on and have the board follow the outfeed table only, if you transfer from the infeed to the outfeed late in the game, the board tips down and rises the trailing end.
First check your straight edge...make sure thats straight.
Use a long straight edge and lay it across infeed and outfeed. i like to use a light opposite of the side my face is on to see if light is making it under the straight. Feeler guages work too if you have them.
Check at multiple points not just one there could be an angular misalignment or twist.
If your getting snipe at the start too then lay the straight edge on the outfeed and rotate the cutter head so it is just kissing the bottom of the straight edge.
If the knives arent touching at all adjust them.
If your sniping the ends of boards theres only a few things it can be so check, and check again, and then again until you spot it. It wont take much to cause the snipe just a few thou off will do it so you need a GOOD straight edge, and eyes or feeler guages.
Yep I bought a straight edge from Taylor Tools for a while ago. https://taytools.com/collections/tools-measuring-straight-edges/products/anodized-aluminum-straight-edges
I strongly suggest watching Matt Wadja's excellent video,"Machine Setup: Adjusting Jointer Tables." It's part of the July 23, 2018 video workshop Matt did with Ellen Kaspern and available on this site. By the time you finish, you'll understand where the problem is and how to fix it.
All good advice thus far, not much to add. FWIW, I had to adjust the outfeed bed on my 8" Grizzly joiner when I first got it many years ago, and I did it again when we moved 13 years ago. I had to install very thin brass shim stock to the ways, more on one side than the other, to get the two beds perfectly coplanar. Once done, it will never need attention again unless it gets moved, someone decides to sit on the bed, etc.
It's important to get them coplanar, but equally important to use proper technique, as stated above.
I also use the "light from behind" technique with all my machine set ups, rather than feeler gauges; I think it gives a better overall image of whether the beds are each truly flat and if they are coplanar. I also use winding sticks crosswise in various places along the length of the beds to check for twist in a bed. Unfortunately, winding sticks are a somewhat crude technique (hard to see discrepancies accurately), but I don't know what replaces them. Sadly, if it's twisted, there's probably not much you can do.
It could be that the knives are not co-planar with the outfeed table. If the knives are set slightly lower than the outfeed table the cut will be reduced when the board transfers from the infeed table to the outfeed table. If you have an outfeed table height adjustment, I would try lowering the outfeed table very slightly. You could also try re-setting the knives. I use a dial indicator to do this. As the other posters mention, there are good articles in FWW on jointer tuning. Good luck !