Hi: I read once that it’s easier to flatten a cupped (or is that bowed?) board by ripping it in thinner pieces, thereby taking out some of the cupping with each slice? My guess is that I should have the cupping up on the table saw as the board is less likely to bind when cut. Am I right about this?
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Replies
It's not really easier per se, but it is less wasteful of wood. A bandsaw would be the tool of choice for the task, but if you don't have one, you can do it on the tablesaw as you suggest--with the cup facing upwards. Be sure to have some kickback protection in place, as the board will be unstable and can easily rock into the blade.
-Steve
My reference to 'easier' was probably that I had in mind hand-planing the smaller boards than planing the larger one. Once I rip the board into smaller pieces, there won't be much of a cup in any of them. It seemed that ripping with the cup up would make it less likely that the board would bind on the saw blade. Should I use a featherboard? What kickback protection were you suggesting?
You don't have to have binding to get kickback--binding all but ensures kickback, but is not required. You can get kickback any time the leading edge of the workpiece contacts the far point of the blade, and with a boart that's rocking on its convex side, that's easy to do. At the very least, you should use a riving knife or splitter. In addition, you should use a solid guard over the top of the blade to stop any pieces that are thrown up as well as back. That leaves you with pieces that shoot straight back towards you along the surface of the table, which you can generally avoid by standing well to the left of the blade.
I wouldn't use a featherboard or other "pressurized" constraining device in this situation. The lack of stability that results from having the board lying on its convex side means that a featherboard won't be able to exert steady, even pressure.
-Steve
"--by standing well to the left of the blade."
Do you stand to the left of the blade? I was just told to stand to the right of the blade to avoid reaching over the blade when pushing the workpiece through.
It depends on the cut. If you're ripping a narrow piece, then yes, standing to the right makes sense. But if you're ripping a narrow edge off a wide board, or crosscutting, then standing to the left makes more sense.
(These days, I'm standing on neither side, as I am currently tablesaw-less--no room.)
-Steve
Thanks, I'm putting it together. NO TABLESAW!? That's awful!
I don't miss it much. Cutting sheet goods is a pain, but that's about it. Now that I've gotten my new Festool TS 55, even that task isn't so bad.
-Steve
I too am tablesawless, mine broke, getting a new one tonight hopefully
Look ma, no jigs!!!
Hey Andy, whatcha gettin ?
The Jet 708315LSB. It is the biggest I can get, and for the best buck
Look ma, no jigs!!!
Hey I think you did pretty good!
That's a way better saw then I started out with (and several in between). So what have you been using in the meantime? I mean you've been
doing some pretty involved projects, you must have had access to one.
no access, life's been a drag these past weeks :(
Look ma, no jigs!!!
you can make a jig that slides along the fence or in the miter slot that holds the wood while you run it past the saw blade
Look ma, no jigs!!!
I'm sensing a contradiction in your post . . . intentional? Maybe mother isn't looking.Brian
Just for jolllies, here is an article about the terminology, with sketches.
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