Replies

1. 
   cynwyd | Nov 02, 2004 06:17am | #1

   I use a 1 x 4 x 10' magnesium screed and in what is a fair test of accuracy and non deflection, Corian router jointed will just "click" together. Maybe $85 20 years ago. Useful as a straightedge too. Make setback gauges for your router with usual bits and for your  saw - setup is quick and sure.

2. 
   jim | Nov 02, 2004 02:33pm | #2

   I use 10' metal stud little deflection an cost can not be beat.

3. 
   kugiman | Nov 04, 2004 07:54pm | #3

   It may not be the economical solution, but the Festool plunge saw system is hands down, the best for accurately cutting sheet goods and plywood. Who wants to take a chance with a $100 sheet of cherry plywood? The Festool is actually a zero clearance saw/guide combo, so you do not have any tear out problems. The blade actually runs right next to a rubber strip on the aluminum guide. Go to their website http://www.festool.com to see all the stuff! I have a small shop so lugging 4x8 plywood around on the table saw is not an option. I use a piece of foam insulation and set the blade to about 1/8" deeper than the thickness of the plywood. The cut is perfect and no other edge finishing is required.

4. 
   badoyn | Nov 10, 2004 06:49pm | #4

   I've tried the Festool saw with guide and was surpised how well it worked.

   Michael

5. 
   jptenberg | Nov 10, 2004 06:57pm | #5

   I use a "clamp and tool guide"  It's a straight edge with a cam clamp on the bottom.  It comes in lenghts from 36" to 98" or so, and I think that there is another brand of the same idea that has a carriage for saws or routers that locks into the edge.

   THese things aren't particularly cheap, but they sure are handy.  I think that most of the mail order places have them--Highland, woodcraft, rockler etc...

   Peter

   jpswoodworking.com

6. 
   forestgirl | Nov 10, 2004 08:32pm | #6

   Penn State Ind. makes a unit that looks solid and is affordable.  I don't own it yet, but it's "on the list."
   http://www.pennstateind.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PSI&Product_Code=PPS-B&Category_Code=

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   ian | Nov 13, 2004 03:22pm | #8

   FG

   The Pen State guide looks a lot like the Clamp & Tool guide.  I've used both the Festool guide bar and the Clamp & Tool guide – IMO if you can stump-up the price of a Festool saw or router, you wouldn't buy anything other than the Festool.  The problem with the C&TG is that it moves slightly off line when you use the cam to clamp it.  It's not impossible to correct for (you just initially line it up to one side of the line so when you clamp it it's on line) but still a pain and time consuming to work around.

   Ian

7. 
   stevemorris | Nov 12, 2004 07:00pm | #7

   lee valley makes a really slick set up for an edge guide, clamps to the material at any angle, clamps are available upto 2 inch thick material(ideal for countertops)

   http://www.leevalley.com

   caulking is not a piece of trim

8. 
   dsoys | Jan 30, 2005 05:39am | #9

   build your self a shooting board out of 1/2 mdf. cut one pcs about 10" wide and 8' long then another about 1 1/2" wide 8' long glue and screw or nail the 1 1/2 on top of the 10" off center now put your circular saw against the 1 1/2 and cut down one side and then down the other side so you now have a fence for both sides of the saw that are exactly the size of your saws bed. now do the same in a four foot length. Now your ready to put this on your sheet measure out mark and line your jig up to your marks clamp and cut.

1. 
   cowtown | Feb 04, 2005 11:17am | #10

   what don said. but an 80Tooth blade in yer circular saw instead of the 1das0 tooth "decking" blade and yer off to the races. But these boards don't last forever, they do get worn and nicked, and then it's hard to align them with the marks on the sheet goods. Dont be afraid to throw it out when it's time comes. I think he forgot to mention that the board helps prevent tear out, so with a sharp blade you can work on the good face, instead of trying to warp yer visualization of the shape-to-cut to lines drawn on the backside, which is really good for making " errors"...One thing you gotta watch out for is that you allow enough extra on the non-working side so that the clamps you use don't interfere with the saw motor. As well, you gotta do the "set up" on yer circular saw just as you did on yer table saw, so that the blade is parallel to the edges of the foot plate. Eric in Calgary

1. 
   Nick25 | Feb 06, 2005 09:52am | #11

   I've always just clamped my straightedge 1.5 away and cut on the opposite side of the motor. I guess you guys are talking about applications where it wouldn't be a good idea to run the saw's foot plate along the wood. Too bad you guys didn't win the stanley cup we were all cheering over here in T.O.

1. 
   DDay | Feb 19, 2005 04:36am | #12

   That's the way I usually do it too.  If your worried about surface damage, you can set up a 6 in plywood straight edge and put a thinner strip on one side.  Then run the cir down the thin edge and that will make you your guide.  When you cut, the saw will ride on the 6in piece and not damage the surface.  The downside it you lose your depth cutting but your never going to cut more than 3/4 or 1" plywood, mdf, etc.

9. 
   WayneL5 | Feb 19, 2005 07:21am | #13

   A thick straightedge (either a purchased clamp or a piece of veneer plywood you cut especially straight) clamped to the sheet.

   You have to make sure the base of your saw is parallel to the blade.  If it is out of whack (say you dropped it, or whatever) the saw will not follow the guide and will smoke and bind if you try to force it to.