Replies

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 08, 2007 01:54pm | #1

   You could set up a jig similar to what you would use to level a benchtop with a router -- basically pairs of rails perpendicular to each other, one pair stationary to establish the plane of cut and the other to carry the router over that plane. Just set up the stationary set so it's at the proper bevel.

   Another possibility that comes to mind is a surface planer in a RAS or drill press. (I personally hate those and won't use them ever since a board I was planing years ago literally exploded, flinging shrapnel all over the shop. Scary.)

   You could set up an auxilary table (really, just a rail would do it) to allow you to run the edges over a jointer at an angle.

   Probably lots of ways to do this with power tools. If it was me though, I'd probably just use a hand plane, or maybe take as much of the bevel off on the table saw as possible and finish up the last couple of inches with a hand plane. Hey, it's a perfect opportunity to learn to use a plane -- which is often the easiest way to do a job like this. Just take it slow. There's less liklihood that you'll spoil the piece with a hand pland than any of the above plug-in methods.

2. 
   dherzig | Jun 08, 2007 06:34pm | #2

   I would think that once you have scribed the two lines indicating the 0.75 edge and then the six inches on the underside that it would be extremely easy to do with a plane. Although a little slow, it could easily be done with a block plane. And a lot easier than trying to manipulate a heavy board.

   
   

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   Edited 6/8/2007 11:35 am ET by dherzig

3. 
   BigNat | Jun 08, 2007 06:58pm | #3

   Blake,

   I have done similar operations, but in a slightly different application. A few years back I was called upon to scarf together two sheets of 1" plywood at a ratio of 1:8 for the sole of a sailboat. This is going to ruffle some feathers here, but I used a hand-held power plane with sharp (read brand new) blades to get within 1/16" of my lines and then finished with a jack plane. Noisy and messy, but it got the job done and it didn't take all day. Strangely enough, the part I wasn't too thrilled about was taking my well-tuned jack plane to a sheet of plywood.

   Hope this helps,

   Nat

1. 
   blakeyoung | Jun 08, 2007 07:50pm | #5

   Thanks for the advice all... I started a test board by cutting the profile edge with a router and a pattern of the bevel... then used that as "reference face"... then got out the large middle with a jack plane and finished up with a belt sander.... worked pretty well but took about 2 hours( and I'm in a garage in middle of Mississippi.. man it's hot today)....think I'm just gonna finish it up this way... maybe I can sweat off a few pounds... and makes me almost feel like a real wood worker... using a plane and all

4. 
   JeffHeath | Jun 08, 2007 07:44pm | #4

   Does the top overhang the leg/apron support system by more than 6"???  That's a huge overhang.  You may wish to rethink that, as if the over hang is smaller than 6", you'll have joinery issues attaching the beveled bottom of the table to your apron/leg system.

   If you don't want to do it with a plane, take Nat's advice and get a power planer.  Make sure you work with the grain, or face the tear-out wrath from the wood gods.

   Jeff

1. 
   blakeyoung | Jun 08, 2007 08:09pm | #6

   The legs don't actually attach to the top... so the overhang goes slightly over the top of the edge... i'm attaching a picture of my design...

   
1. 
   QCInspector | Jun 08, 2007 09:55pm | #7

   I would have placed a straight board parallel to and above the jointer to create the shallow angle.

2. 
   JeffHeath | Jun 09, 2007 05:40pm | #9

   Blake

   Gotcha!  Nice design,  and post pictures when you build it.

   I agree with Philip, too.  You can't avoid hand planes if you want to make furniture.  The learning curve is quite short, in my opinion, and you will be quite happy with the improved finish the plane will leave your wood surface in.  By the time you build a jig and have it set up, you could have made two of those table tops with a hand plane.

   Jeff

   Edited 6/9/2007 10:43 am ET by JeffHeath

1. 
   blakeyoung | Jun 09, 2007 07:27pm | #10

   I've ended up just doing it with a handplane... it's alot of work and a lot of material to take off.... but it's not as scary as I thought it would be... only problem is I can't seen to get good hard corners where the bevels intersect.... any suggestions on this?

1. 
   JeffHeath | Jun 09, 2007 10:07pm | #11

   Yeah,  practice!!!    Take some scraps, and work out the corner detail on them.  It's a simple matter of getting too flat surfaces to intersect, leaving a straight line on the corner.  Keep at it.  You'll get it.

   Jeff

2. 
   philip | Jun 10, 2007 12:35am | #12

   Yes- start with the cross grain and continue around-if there is any roughing it comes out when you go along the grain.
   The blade must be sharp for the finishing cuts-sharp.
   If you can use a longish plane i.e something longer than a smoother it will facilitate maintaining flatness. Check often with a straight edge that you are not planing convex.Wax the sole . If you plane up to the lines first then flatten in between the lines the bevel intersection lines will come out straight automatically.Philip Marcou

5. 
   philip | Jun 09, 2007 01:31pm | #8

   Blake,, by the time you have thought up and constructed a router based plan, or found some convenient way of elevating that top onto your surfacer (assuming it is big enough to allow this) you could have simply marked out the extremities of that bevel and planed it by hand-more than once.
   If you are going to make more pieces like that table then it is essential that you get familiar with hand planes.
   If I had just one or two tops like that to do I would use a portable power plane to remove the bulk, then clean it up with a number 51/2 or number 7. Lots of them would require some flapping about rigging a suitable guide on the surfacer-and still possibly a little hand planing.
   You can't get away from hand planing-it is part of furniture making.

   Philip Marcou