Replies

1. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 28, 2002 05:56pm | #1

   I always 'cope' the inside corners.  One piece butts flush into the corner and the joining piece is cut with a coping saw to fit.

   A tip for making the 'cope' cut is to first cut a 45 then use a coping saw to follow the line defined by where the face of the crown meets the 45 degree cut.  Cut the 45 on the piece to be coped as if you were going to 45 the corner.  Once the coped end is cut and fitted, then determine where to make the butt cut on the other end. 

   I make a miter box for each size crown.  The inside width of the box is the amount that the crown will set out from the wall, or whatever it's fastened to.  I cut using a hand miter saw and the miter box then do the coping saw bit. 

   Also, I have always mounted the crown to a molding strip and not to the wall.  I start with a strip like 1.5" wide and put a decorative edge on it that will show below the bottom edge of the crown.  The strip is nailed to the wall at all stud locations that do not cause a noticible bow (crooked walls).  Put a shim behind the strip if the wall bows.  Gaps between the strip and the wall can be filled later.  The crown is then nailed to this strip using small finish nails along the bottom edge of the crown.   I never nail the crown to the ceiling.  Instead, I cut blocks at the correct angle and mount them onto the wall (above the molding strip) at about every 2nd stud location.  I then use small finish nails to nail through the face of the crown to these.  Never force crown to fit.  Put it up and nail it where it lies!

   Why cope?  Well, you'll get much better looking corners and it doesn't matter if the corners are not exactly 90 degrees.  And, the corners will stay looking good with time. 

   OOPS!  gotta go walk the dogs!

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

1. 
   cdrouin1 | Aug 28, 2002 08:24pm | #2

   Thanks alot Mike!

   your points are very inspiring and I am looking forward to trying crown moulding again!

   Any particular coping saw / blade you use?

   cheers.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 29, 2002 12:30am | #4

   one with a sharp blade.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

2. 
   LRutherfor1 | Aug 29, 2002 12:02am | #3

   Since you have a compound miter, set your miter at 31 5/8 degrees and your bevel at 33 7/8.  Place the crown moulding on the saw and make the first cut with the piece on the right side of the saw.  Turn the miter to 31 5/8 degrees to the left, turn the moulding with the bottom toward the fence and cut the other side.  If you get the saw setup right, you'll get perfect 52/38 degree cuts that will fit at a 45 degree angle to the ceiling every time. 

   Len (Len's Custom Woodworking)

3. 
   mike4244 | Aug 29, 2002 04:04am | #5

   Chris, the previous posts were very good, I would like to add one more hint.

   After making the miter cut for a cope joint clamp it lightly against the saw fence. If the crown is small a coping saw is fine , but I use a sabersaw with a metal cutting blade to cope.The base of the saw lays directly on the cut profile, when you cut it will be a 45 degree backcut, this is what you need to make a tight fit. Most crown has a step, cove ,ogee or a roundover and another step.Make relief cuts so the blade does not bind , then make the step cuts. These cuts must be paper thin or the coped piece will not go high enough, you would end up with the coped piece a little lower than the butted crown. You will have to finish up with files and sandpaper.

   There is a tool called a coping foot which I believe takes the place of the original base on the sabersaw.I never saw one myself but read they are helpful.I have done thousands of feet of crown by using the method above. Hope I helped a bit

   Mike                                                                            

4. 
   goldhiller | Aug 29, 2002 05:56am | #6

   Chris,

   You'll find some handy info here.

   http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=2

1. 
   cdrouin1 | Aug 29, 2002 07:07am | #8

   Thanks alot for all the information & tips! I learned a great deal I didn't know about crowns... that's just fantastic.

   Cheers for now & happy woodworking!!!

   chris

5. 
   djpp | Aug 29, 2002 07:07am | #7

   Chris, you don't need a cms to cut crown molding. Placing the saw on the bevel is a monumental waste of time and can get confusing when dealing with corners other than 90 degrees.

   Place the material against the table and the fence as it would go on the wall/cabinent with one exception, put it upside down. to clarify, the bottom of the molding on the fence and the top of the molding on the table. Then it is as simple as swinging the table to 45 , 22 1/2 or what ever angle you need. (be sure to use an auxillary fence or clamps)

   Cope your corners when nailing into drywall or plaster, otherwise the molding will get sucked in when fastening. When triming around something such as kitchen cabinents inside corners will not move when fastened.

   It is a very simple process that sometimes is made out to be difficult. Keep it simple and have fun.

                            sincerly, David J. Peschio

   ps; this method also eliminates the need for a compound miter saw not to mention a dual cms