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Making a set of knotty pine bookcases, and would like to make a shelf cleat system I saw in a barn closet once. In each corner is a vertical “standard” about 1×2 with a right triangle cut into it every 3 or so inches. The standard in each front corner faces the back, and the standard in each back corner faces the front. The shelf supports are 1×2’s with the top corners cut back so they fit in the standards’ triangles. (Sorry I don’t have any way to include a diagram.) I would like to ask for suggestions smoothing the diagonal cut in the standards. Found a Stanley rabbet plane in the Lee Valley catalogue and wonder if that would be the best way to smooth this cut. Thanks for your input.
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Replies
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Don, you could use a shoulder plane with the front removed, also called a "chisel plane" - a file would probably be a good way to smooth those surfaces, too. I've done this a few times, and just left the diagonals with the bandsaw marks, the clients liked the little "rough touch" on an otherwise clean piece. You might save yourself some trouble by making the diagonal cuts on the table saw rather than the bandsaw (maybe that was your plan anyway?)...
SB
*Don, this is a traditional pre-proprietary hardware way of making shelves adjustable. You might think about making a pattern out of MDF. Attach it to your part with c/s screws- or some other method, trace round the notches in the MDF, and rough cut with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Then reattach the pattern and use a router and smallish pattern cutting bit leaving just a corner to clean out with a chisel. You want to organise yourself so that you aren't routing short grain. Once you've got the pattern it can be used multiple times, especially if you toughen up the edge with some thin slow set epoxy glue, but for just a few uses there's no need to bother with the epoxy. A good thickness of MDF would be 3/8" or 1/2". Slainte, RJ.
*Don, Cut 'em clean and leave them on a TS or a SCMS with a depth stop. It be be pretty easy to jig on the TS. Leaving them as is is probably historically correct for rural furniture. I doubt they bothered cleaning those sawtooth standards up to much. If you realy want to clean them up the LN small chisel plane would be a good choice. You could also use a Clifton Convertible Shoulder Plane which also makes into a narrow bullnose and chisel plane.
*Don,If you have a scroll saw you could cut them with that and get a nice smooth cut if a good blade is used. You will, however, have to mark all of the "bird's mouths" by hand first. Tack two together to save time. You could also trim rough areas with a paring chisel.Brian
*I would use a fine rasp as mentioned by Scott to clean up cuts made by hand. I would build a jig if I had an order for ten same-sized units. I would use a pencil, a ruler, and a handsaw if I'm building only a couple units. A bullnose plane would work too and so would a chisel as Brian mentioned.
*Once again, the forum (and specifically Scott, Sgian, John, Brian and Charles) has been a valued resource. Sometimes my mind wants to stay focused to much on a challenge and not enough on possible solutions. All of your comments and suggestions are much appreciated, and all will probably be used in making the jig or finishing the standards (the customer today said she wants the "country" details but not a rough [i.e. sawmarks] appearance). Thanks for helping me through another brain vacation. Don
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