Replies

1. 
   Wingdoctor | Oct 09, 2008 05:26pm | #1

   Norm lists some of the tools he uses on his web site. The driver, drill, countersink, set is here http://www.newyankee.com/gettools.php?JRDLX-1

   Bruce

   "A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
2. 
   K1500 | Oct 09, 2008 07:05pm | #2

   Fuller are great, expensive, tapered, and not carbide.

3. 
   RickL | Oct 09, 2008 07:32pm | #3

   http://www.wlfuller.com  Type J countersinks are the best. Most people only know about Type E. You can use straight bits. Tapered bits are for the old style woodscrew. You don't want carbide. HSS is much better.  Carbide is brittle and HSS you can sharpen.

   My real favorite is the Makita Quad bit over the Fuller. http://www.toolbarn.com/product/makita/784859-A/

4. 
   hammer1 | Oct 10, 2008 04:18pm | #4

   I can't comment on what Norm uses. I drill and drive a lot of screws. Over the years I have used many different bits and combos. Many have been banned from the tool box for life. I have ended up with some interchangeable parts that are very similar but made by a few different companies. I'm not sure which is which any more but the fact they can work with each others parts is convenient. This set has been on the job for quite a few years.

   The heart of the system for me is the chuck. This is from Insty bit, as is the sink and bit to the left. This chuck is the only one that I have found, that allows one handed bit changes. You pull it out to automatically release the bit. All the others, you pull back. When you place a bit in this chuck, it locks it without any operator input. The others require you to push or pull a lock. With others, if you don't get the lock clicked in correctly, the bit will fall out. Not so convenient when you are up a ladder or have one hand occupied with holding the work.

   A tapered bit is the best for maximum holding power from the screws. If you break a bit or don't require a tapered hole, you can put the countersink on any ordinary straight bit. The key to long bit life is to back it out and clean out the flutes, frequently. Otherwise, heat builds up and the bit jams, often causing breakage. The better bits are hardened steel and have double flutes. With the Insty bits, the tapered bit is replaceable in the hex holder. Some of the others are not.

   If you don't bore the correct size hole for your screws, either they won't hold or they may get stuck, breaking or causing the head to strip out. This is the last thing you want to happen. Many of the flip style bits are limited in length of the bit. If you extend the bit, you can't flip it. Often the bits aren't long enough for 2" and longer screws.

   There is a depth stop ring that can be placed on the countersink on these type of bits. I seldom use them since they can mark your work. There are several companies that make these type of countersinks, Fuller, Insty bit and others I can't remember. My local Rockler has the Insty bit parts and pieces in stock so that's my current choice. I'ved used these on plastics, nylon, aluminum, brass and wood with good results.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match