Replies

1. 
   mvflaim | Aug 26, 2009 07:30pm | #1

   I don't think there is much difference between the shank of a screwdriver and a burnisher but I'm probably wrong. I own the Veritas burnisher and love it. It takes the guess work at which angle to hold the burnisher at.

    

    

   http://www.mvflaim.com

2. 
   davcefai | Aug 26, 2009 07:31pm | #2

   The shank of a 12mm twist bit does a good job for me.

3. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 26, 2009 10:14pm | #3

   This one works well. No need to spend more: http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?filter=burnisher&submit.x=10&submit.y=7

   Here is the way I was taught years ago to sharpen a hand scraper.

   The first step is to put the scraper in a vise and using a fine file, file the edge perfectly perpendicular to the sides. Only a couple of strokes should be necessary and this is normally only done on a brand new scraper or one in bad shape. Next, using a fine oil stone, hold the scraper flat on the stone and remove any burr and smooth the sides near the edge. Holding the scraper straight up on edge (90 degrees to the stone), hone the edge and then lightly remove the burr. There is a tendency for scrapers to dig into a soft waterstone so I use an inexpensive fine oil stone. 400 Wet & Dry sandpaper lubricated with light oil or WD40 would work fine.

   Burnishing is the next step. After filing and being sure the edge is flat and 90 degrees to the sides, put the scraper flat down on, and slightly back (1/4") from the edge of your bench. Run your burnisher along the flat side of the scraper pressing it so the burnisher is tight at the edge. This starts causing the edge corner to extend. This is a step that burnisher jigs can not do. Now put the scraper in your vise extending up about an inch. With your burnisher, run it along the edge at 90 degrees from the sides. Take 2 or three not too heavy strokes. This causes the corner raised in the first step to be bent toward the sides of the scraper. Then tip your burnisher up slightly (10-15 degrees--really makes no difference) and take two continuous, firm strokes on each edge. That's it.

   You will have to try scraping at various angles to find the "sweet spot." As the scraper becomes dull, go through the same three burnishing steps as above. You can burnish 10-20 times before stoning or filing is again required. It takes less time than changing sandpaper in a sander.

   I greatly favor a real burnisher for two reasons. First, it is really hard metal. Second, it it highly polished. Both of these attributes mean that there is little chance of galling (or tearing metal from) the scraper edge. Galling makes for less than a smooth cut. The smoother the burnisher, the smoother the burr. Screwdriver shafts may or may not be hard enough and the chrome plating will eventually deteriorate. Drill bits are also variable in hardness. Using a valve stem from a car engine that has been highly polished is an alternative but, why not just get a burnisher?

   Finally, you can control the aggressiveness of the scraper by the way you file/stone it and how you use the burnisher to make the burr. Stoneing with a fine stone after filing and then using lighter pressure on your burnisher will give you a less aggressive but finer cutting burr and a smoother finish. I have a thicker scraper that I sharpen to an aggressive cutting burr that I use for initial work (ie: ripple removal after jointing/planing) and then a set of thinner scrapers that I put a finer edge on for finish smoothing and cutting down and smoothing varnish finishes.

   Finally, to prevent frustration, scrapers work best on hard woods. Using them on pine and other soft woods is generally unsuccessful.

   For an excellent description with pictures get Bob Flexner's "Understanding Wood Finishing."

   Howie.........
1. 
   gofigure57 | Aug 27, 2009 04:07pm | #8

   Your dead on with your post .  

   My biggest problem with getting consistent edges on card scrappers was figuring out the correct pressure to put on the burnisher.   I must thank  Ray Pine for IMO  best explaining it for me in one of his posts on this topic,  something about shaking the hand of an elderly woman.  Thanks Ray.

   Tom.

4. 
   roc | Aug 27, 2009 04:17am | #4

   I tried all the funny stuff but for the better steel scrapers you can't beat this dude

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=9

   next best thing was the chuck shaft end of a carbide end mill but the business end tended to cut up my fingers. Screw drivers didn't work at all on the better scrapers.

   Why fight it ? Get a nice burnisher.

   roc

   Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

1. 
   larry101 | Aug 27, 2009 03:03pm | #6

   Step 1 - Right tool for the right job.  I will get a burnisher

   Is there a differnce in the name brand Pfeil for woodcraft, Veritas or Crown?  Not to penny pinch but the Crown is $21, Pfeil for woodcraft $30, and veritas $36.  Is it worth the extra money for the name brand. 

    

   Thanks

1. 
   zolton | Aug 27, 2009 03:38pm | #7

   My current burnisher is a broken 1/4 inch solid carbide router bit. I set it into the end of a turned handle, and voila, a hard, polished burnisher capable of turning the hardest steel, for free.

   Even if you purchased a new carbide bit, it would likely still be cheaper than buying a burnisher.

   ZoltonIf you see a possum running around in here, kill it. It's not a pet. - Jackie Moon

2. 
   boilerbay | Aug 27, 2009 04:53pm | #9

   Larry,As Hammer said, hard steel, must be harder than scraper. Must be very smooth as to not gall the edge. Veritas yes, the best of the lot at the price, Woodcraft-maybe. I think IMHO, the metal in their (Pfeil)chisel line too soft so I would wonder about the burnisher -- just me, and again IMHO,.... run like hell from Crown.
   An old SMOOTH shaft valve stem works great. Length is not all that important. Some like the triangles - me,but I also use the oval on goose scrapers. Just plain round will do for all.BBEdit: spelling

   Edited 8/27/2009 10:54 am by boilerbay

5. 
   hammer1 | Aug 27, 2009 02:26pm | #5

   The steel of the burnisher needs to be much harder than the scraper. Screwdriver shafts may not be hard enough. I have a round burnisher and a three cornered one, I prefer the three cornered one.
   http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/cPath/2_236/products_id/2839

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

6. 
   RMillard | Aug 27, 2009 05:35pm | #10

   I use a broken/worn carbide endmill, stuffed into a 1" dowel and it works great. I have a few endmills sitting around, so if you want one, email me and I will pop it in the mail to you.

   Rob Millard
   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com