Thought I’d pass this small tip to those like myself who are small budget hobbyists. I’ve read several posts in the past from those who’ve replaced sheaves (pulleys) and V belts with a PowerTwist link style belt. I did the same thing recently and am very pleased with the results.
I saw a package deal through a specialty woodworking catalog for around $54.00. I went to Grainger, said I work for a local customer of theirs (I do even though this purchase was for me) and they gave me steel sheaves (my $85.00 Rockwell CTS came with aluminum) and 5 feet of link belt for under 40 bucks.
This was a very worthwhile upgrade for me, especially since the sheave on the arbor ran like a cam and the one on the motor wobbled like a bent axle even though the motor shaft is true.
Only thing to be aware of: the PowerTwist belt is wider than the old belt I had so the sheaves need to be wider to accept the wider belt.
Maybe I’m the last one who hangs here to do the upgrade but if not and anyone is considering this, it is worthwhile. The penny stands on edge; I’ve not tried a dime.
jd
Replies
I've been considering doing that upgrade on my TS and BS. Thanks for the tip on the sheaves.
Marcello
Yep, the twist belts are great. I put one on my ancient Jet contractor's saw a couple of months ago, and it made a world of difference, especially in lessening the vibration.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
The package might be the best aproach for most but I just go to the local "Drive" shop in the area and buy the sheeves (pulleys). You are correct the potmetal standard equipment pulleys are too slippery and don't give you the correct transfer of power.
I've changed most of my shop over to the steel or cast Iron pulleys. The machined groove really helps. I even replaced the drum pulley on my shaper with a single groove CI one. If you buy them singly they are 8 to 12 bucks each. Most sizes are on the shelf. The important measurements are the OD of the pulley and the shaft diameter. Often you can't get the exact size. If you have to change just get the correct drive to driven pulley ratio. (maintain the same RPM at the blade.)
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