I have a black & decker contractors saw, the top is horribly out of level, (right side about half an inch lower than the left). If I spent the money on a new saw instead of the house remodel we’re doing right now, my wife would probably disown me. I use the saw mostly for rough ripping and then hand plane to final dimension, nothing too heavy duty and the motor seems adequate for the little I use it, but would like something more accurate. .
I’m planning to build a cabinet base for the saw that has a router table in the extension. At the same time I’m considering building a new top out for the saw out of phenolic ply or MDF with a laminate top with enough bracing to keep it level and T-track for the new miter slots. Has anyone tried anything similar or have any advice as to whether this is a good idea?
Replies
I like phenolic ply for jigs and fixtures where the smooth, "slickery" surface is desireable. While it's not cast iron, it (3/4") should be OK, I'd think, for a replacement top on a small saw. I'd suggest keeping the sections separate and individually edge-reinforced, so flex on one won't affect the other. Depending on the size of the span on the main saw table, you might want to partially double the thickness in a way that doesn't interfere with your depth of cut. That way, the grooves for the miter track won't compromise stability over time.
If you haven't worked with phenolic ply before, one thing to watch is its tendency to have tear-out along cut or routed edges. Scoring cut lines in advance with a marking knife is helpful. Also, conventional glues won't stick to it, but contact cement will.
Is the top out of level, or is it warped? If its just not level, but is flat, then you just need to shim up the base of the saw. If it is warped, then you need a new saw. There are usually a few listed on craigslist at any given time for less than you would have into building a new top.
It doesn't seem to be warped just unlevel, the side to the left of the left miter slot and the center around the blade are perfectly level with a steel straight edge. the right section to the right of the other miter slot seems to be level, its just a quarter to half in lower than the rest of the table. I hadn't thought about trying to shim it, I think I will try that first.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled