I plan to make a planter box consisting of four sides (basically square). The opening at the top of the box would be larger than the oening at the bottom, thus, sloping sides.
Can anyone offer suggestions for a simple, straightforward technique I can use to get the tapered miters along the vertical edges of each side? Getting one would be no problem as long as the opposite edge remains uncut and square. What puzzles me is how to get the remaining mitered/angled edge once one side has already been cut. Mount on a square sled? Use tapering jig?
Thanks in advance.
Craig
Replies
cmascolo,
There was an article in FWW (#158) last year (Oct. 02)that showed how to set up and use a jig on the TS. I don't remember all the details..altough I did use the technique to try my hand at some trays with 4" sides. Basically, they took a piece of 2 or 3" square stock maybe 12" long and cut a 10 degree slope (bevel the blade) on three of the sides (two ends, one side) (could be greater or lessor than 10 degree). You now have created the inside corner of your box..this is your jig.
You use the jig to find the correct angles for the blade and the miter guage at the same time. For butt joints, just place the jig on the long bevel edge and one of the ends flush against the blade...bring the miter gauge up and adjust flush to the stock...tighten. You can make all your cuts with the miter now...move to the other miter to cut the other side of the board..do not adjust the miter guage.
For compound cuts (mitered corners) only the blade angle need to be changed. To determine the correct angle lay the jig on the beveled side and a 45 degree triangle laid against the jig....adjust the blade to flush with the triangle..which is laying the jig.
You really need to read the article. Anyhow, hope this helps.
However, do you think those joints will be strong enough for a planter?
Edited 8/25/2003 3:36:00 PM ET by BG
http://www.woodworkinginfo.com
Try this site they offer a little shop math calculator for free. Within is a compound mitre formula. You fill in the measuements and it gives yoy the settings.
I don't know if the above site works. You might have to type it in-www.woodworkinginfo.com
Edited 8/25/2003 2:11:15 PM ET by JAGWAH
Edited 8/25/2003 2:13:32 PM ET by JAGWAH
Edited 8/25/2003 2:14:34 PM ET by JAGWAH
http://home.earthlink.net/~timcera/angle.html
The above link will allow you to key in the known angles, and will return the unknown ones.
But before you do that, you might want to consider some type of joint other than miters. A mitered corner is perhaps the weakest of the available joints, even when it's been bolstered with nails or screws. Once you fill that box with wet mud, it is likely to come apart.
Think about an alternative design -- I've used butt joints with screws, and dadoes. To achieve the tapered look that you ask about, use the calculator above. Then cut the end pieces with those angles, and the dadoes too.
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