Occasionally I immerse my tablesaw blade overnight in a plastic container filled with ammonia so that I’m able to easily remove pirtch, etc. the next morning.
Is there anything wrong with this practice?
Sometimes I immerse it for only an hour or so then use a white 3M pad to scour off pitch, etc. Does this light scouring harm anything? Does it harm a carbide tipped blade?
Is there a better practice I should be following?
Replies
Larry do a search of previous posts on this forum .There have been numerous threads on blade cleaning ,some from Charles MC of Freud.
Ammonia won't hurt but isn't really needed. I soak in hot water 1 hour, take off the crud with a stainless "toothbrush" from the welding store and clean the gullets with a doubled pipe cleaner.
Try oven cleaner or lye. It works great in just a few minutes.
Larry: I use the oven cleaner,followed by a scrubdown with a brass bristle brush.Thank you,Mr.Croney,where ever you may be.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
Larry
Try Simple Green. It works great on my TS blades. Pitch buildup comes off in minutes with a spray of SG and a toothbrush. No need for oven cleaner or lye or ammonia.
Tom
[Avoid schadenfreude]
I use the Simple Green, warm water and a soft scrub brush also. Used to use oven cleaner, but Charles from Freud claims that it will weaken and break down the carbide. Don' t know for sure as I've never been in a carbide molecule while being treated with oven cleaner, but I have seen oven cleaner get splattered into someone's eye and it was nasty.
Never tryed ammonia or lye, but I have a feeling it can get nasty also if accidentally tranferred to skin or eyes. Think I'll just stick with Simple Green as recommended by Freud as it works and is harmless.
Regards...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Larry, as mentioned about, Simple Green works great, and I've found that since it's simple to use and not caustic, I tend to clean my blades more often than I used to.
NOTE: Oven cleaner (lye) is not recommended by blade manufacturers. Charles-from-Freud has explained this a couple of times here at Knots. Maybe he'll check in here an re-cap the message. Since I first read his admonition, I switched to Simple Green and actually keep my blades cleaner now than before, just because I don't hate cleaning them any longer.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Jamie
As the old fogey's always say, anyone that would use a non-caustic cleaner would probably attend "Earth Day".. :>)
E-mail yo business address.. Got something to send you in the near future. Need the physcial address on the island or at home. Sending the "brown truck". ha.. ha...
Regards to the "Enchanted Lady of the Forest"...
sarge..jt
Proud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hey, Sarge, good to see ya! As you've probably discovered, I emailed my address earlier. You gonna hang out here awhile? Hope so!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Jamie
Thanks for the welcome back, FG. Got your E and replied.
Might as well hang a while since elections are over. Looks like there are quite a few new posters and the "old shop dog" might learn a few new tricks from them.
Almost finished with the Xmas toys from scraps project. We had some new folks volunteer this year that took some load off the old hands. About 800 toys for the needy kids to this date and still got some scrap left. We'll keep churning till it's gone or Santa expects delivery.
Anything left at that point, might finger-joint it and build another scrap work-bench. Hate wasting scraps as you know. Guess I'm a junk-yard dog at heart. ha.. ha...
Regards...
sarge..jtProud member of the : "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Hey, Sarge, welcome back! I've been wondering whether you ever got that grant to do the babdsaw blade endurance test?
Regarding blade clearners: I've used the Oxy-stuff, which works well, and last week picked up some bit and blade cleaner made by the folks that sell Boeshield. Either works very well (and quickly...no soaking. Spray it on and wipe it off with a paper towel), neither is toxic, and, as I posted a while back, the stuff works great for getting dried paint off of metal objects (not an advertised application).
http://www.boeshield.com/
Simple Green is a good price performer, though, and does the job just fine (according to FG, who I trust totally!).
Lofton
That's interesting because I have been using oven cleaner and lye for about 30 years and have had no problem. Now I would never buy another Freud blade. I think they are the poorest excuse of a blade on the market. I managed a retail establishment and the Freud salesman tried to sell me some blades making great claims. So we took one of his blades on a tablesaw and tried it out. Then we put a Delta blade made by Lietz back on. What a difference! We never bought one Freud blade.
Thanks for the many replies. Seems like Simple Green is the hands-down winner. Certainly seems simpler than the smelly tub of ammonia I've been using.
Larry, one more tip -- if they have it this time of year, you might want to get the BBQ formula. It comes in a big spray can (like a can of spray paint only bigger) and the spray is in a foamy state. Clings just a bit better than the straight liquid stuff. I got mine at Ace in the BBQ accessories area.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Larry,
One more suggestion that usually comes up is Boeshields which is sold at Woodcraft and similar places...not sure it's equal to or better than Simple green..still waiting to use up my bottle of Boeshields. Anyhow, after it's clean I hit the tooth with a couple of strokes with a Fine India stone...it measures about 2x3" 1/4 thick....I think it helps...
I think the problem with oven cleaner is that it can weaken the welds that hold the carbide bits to the steel, which could lead to the carbide bits flying off at high speeds.
OK, I took a little time and found the post by Charles. It's the cobalt binder and, in some blades, a copper alloy that can be affected. Note that while the company recommends the ol' kerosene trick, Charles himself is a Simple Green fan.
Who knows, these problems may be more of a technical possibility than a real-world reality, but I'm always looking for an excuse to not use lye, LOL!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Edited 12/14/2004 11:54 am ET by forestgirl
I know "Selig" brand products work well. I use "Purple industrial cleaner". It works in a couple minutes. Spray blade with your favorite lube afterwards.
ron
I'll keep them in mind -- my can of Simple Green will probably last another 5 years or so, LOL. In the meantime, here's the Selig web site for anyone who's interested:http://www.seligcommercial.com/index.htmlforestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Another vote for the Simple Green. I use the concentrate almost straight, and it loosens the pitch almost immediately. An old toothbrush is all I need.
edit:You never invented some sort of stair rail layout tool, did you?
Edited 12/14/2004 8:00 pm ET by TXJon
Sorry, I can't claim any inventions.
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