Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 25, 2009 12:56am | #1

   Ck,

   You might want to get one of the books on plane id to make sure you aren't cleaning a valuable antique, which would seriously lower its value.  That said, I generally start with H2O and Ivory soap, wiped dry immediately.  If still grungy, mineral spirits, and OOOO steel wool.  Paste wax after it dries.

   If the screws are in wood, try alternately tightening and loosening them.  If that fails, strike the end of the screwdriver handle pretty hard while turning, left and right.  Chucking a screwdriver bit in a brace, or putting a wrench on a square-shanked screwdriver, will give you extra leverage.  Finally, heat a rod the same diameter as the screw head red hot, and apply to the screw, let it heat up, and try again when it cools.

   When you wring it off or have boogered the slot completely,  file some teeth on the end of a piece of steel tubing, chuck it in a drill, and drill a hole around the remains of the screw.  You ought to be able to get a pair of needlenose pliers on the shank and turn it out.  Fill with a face grain plug of the same species

   If in metal, there is a product called "PB Blaster" in an aerosol can that is a very good penetrating oil.  That, plus some heat from a torch, usually does the trick.

   Ray

2. 
   mvflaim | Mar 25, 2009 02:39am | #2

   Theres a product called Kramer's Antique Improver that works really well at bringing the old wood back to life. He also makes a blemish remover which works okay but I honestly can't tell the difference between using that and just using the regular antique improver. Be fore warned that the stuff is expensive but like anything, there's a reason that it's expensive.

   http://www.kramerize.com/using_on_wood.htm

   Mike

    

3. 
   Pippins | Mar 25, 2009 02:46pm | #3

   Ckenney, if they are really antiques, do not try to clean them until you are sure of their age and value. 

   On old wood body planes, I use Murphy's Oil Soap straight from the bottle. It is cheap and available from the local grocery store. Rub it on the dirt and grime with an old rag. Remove any of the lossened stuff and then buff it off. I only try to remove the surface dirt. The really deep stains are left alone. It seems that I read about Murphy's in one of Roy Underhill's books. Give it a try. You will not be out much money and you can always use the left over around the house. 

   Steve        

1. 
   Ckenney | Mar 25, 2009 03:27pm | #4

   Thanks Steve, and everyone.I have an older edition of the Pollak Guide to American Wooden Planes, and the plow plane that needs cleaning the most, is not starred, so it is not an especially rare one, about 1860's.I'll try the Murphy's Oil soap. I've found articles online that recommend everything from mineral spirits, to soap and water, to beeswax. Hopefully the Oil soap will get the dirt off, but not the patina, and then some wax to finish the job.http://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey

1. 
   dkellernc | Mar 25, 2009 08:31pm | #7

   Ray's advice is pretty good, but I'd just add a note - never, ever, take steel wool, synthetic steel wool, or any abrasive to a wooden plane in which you want to preserve collector's value.  Even if very lightly done, it smooths out the surface in a way that collectors really hate, and will lower the value substantially.

   Another comment is asking what you consider "patina".  There are plenty of collectors that consider the grime that comes from bare, sweaty hands and wood dust over a generation of use to be part of the patina, and most of the techniques mentioned here will remove it.  If you feel that's not the case, and simply wish to preserve the brown color of the wood, there is one very selective way to remove just this greasy overcoat without disturbing the wood color below - laquer thinner.  It's extremely selective for human skin oils, and there's no scrubbing involved (and no water to swell/damage the wood fibers).

   One comment about AMWP (the book) - not all wooden planes that are FF (frequently found) are low-value, nor are all wooden planes that are UR (unrated - extremely rare) worth big money.  There's a lot of nuance to it - certain types of planes, though produced in high numbers, can be quite valuable depending on how they're found.  For example, a set of wooden planes that verifiably belonged to one cabinetmaker that are all from Ohio Tool (one of the most common late 19th century makers of wooden planes), would be quite valuable, and a complete half-set of American hollows and rounds, all from the same manufacturer, regularly sell for $1500.  On the opposite end of the extreme, I've several planes by UR makers, and while I like them, they're only worth a couple of hundred at the very most, and that's for a small crown molder.  That same plane from a more prominent maker or especially, an 18th century maker, sell for over $2000 each.

1. 
   Ckenney | Mar 25, 2009 09:28pm | #8

   Thanks, I do just want to get the grime off, but not the age. As if it had been a plane that was cleaned by its user and put away for next use (for 150 years).Are there any good reference books, or online resources, that address valuation of planes? I know what I paid for it, whether I got a good or not, remains to be seen (I was not unhappy with the price, $31 for a handled beech plow plane by J Kellogg, Amhearst, MA. c. 1830's).ThanksChrishttp://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey

1. 
   dkellernc | Mar 26, 2009 06:30pm | #9

   $30 for any plow was a very good deal, unless it's been excessively abused (usually, the threads have been completely stripped at one or more places on the screw stems).

   I can't point you to a valuation source, per se, as it greatly depends on condition, maker, age, rarity, and sales venue.  My perception of a wooden plane's value is formed from looking at several thousand at MWTCA events, online dealers, the Brown and MJD auction listings, and the like.

   However, regarding makers, ages, and rarity, "A Guide to the Makers of American Wooden Planes" by Emil and Martyl Pollack, 4th edition, Astragal Press, is the bible for such info.

   Your plane's maker, by the way, has an extensive entry in this book.  There's too much to reproduce here, but it could have been produced anywhere from about 1835 to 1867.  The time frame can be narrowed down by a comparison of the stamp mark to the imprint reproduction in the AWP.

   While not a huge difference in value, planes made by individual makers rather than the large factories are often worth more to collectors.

2. 
   Ckenney | Mar 26, 2009 07:41pm | #10

   I have the 2nd edition of the Pollack, and from the imprint, my plow probably falls into the later years, since it is the "b" imprint in that edition. All the threads are intact, everything is complete and working, although I'm pretty sure the wedge is a replacement.Here is a pic, so you can see why I want clean it, You can't tell the beech from the boxwood.
   Chrishttp://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey

   
3. 
   dkellernc | Mar 26, 2009 09:30pm | #12

   Unfortunately, that link just takes me to your home page, and while I did hunt around a bit, I wasn't able to find a picture of the plow.

   Regarding what Adam says, I would still choose laquer thinner.  One of the reasons is that there is almost never any finish on a wooden plane, at least an original finish, that might be damaged by laquer thinner.  Ammonia, however, will color raw wood slightly, even in dilute solutions.  Moreover, if you're going to want to use this plane, water or any solution containing water, should not go near it.  The advantage to laquer thinner is that absolutely all of it will evaporate very quickly, often within about 5 minutes or so.  Once the laquer thinner's evaporated, one typically waxes the wood surface with beeswax (which along with linseed oil, by the way, is often how these planes were treated while in use).

   Because wooden planes are almost always "bare" wood (with the exception of a centuries' worth of grime), even when done very carefully, water-based solutions will allow the plane body, fence, and fence screws to pick up significant moisture.  That may result in no issues, but it's also possible for checks/cracks to develop when it dries back out.  That's often the reason why "barn finds" often have checked/cracked cheeks, noses and heels.

4. 
   Ckenney | Mar 26, 2009 10:24pm | #13

   You should see the pic of the plane as an attachment in post 12, under my sig; at least that's where it is showing up for me.Are you considering acetone the same as lacquer thinner?Chrishttp://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey

5. 
   dkellernc | Mar 27, 2009 03:33am | #15

   Weeelll - I'll admit to being unsophisticated about this, but all I see when I go to the page is a listing on the right under "Pages" that has various topics like "About", "Gallery" and "In the Wookshop" - it's not clear to me how I get to blog entry pages (or what each entry's corresponding number is).

   Anyway, laquer thinner is definitely not acetone.  Laquer thinner is a mixture of low-boiling alkanes that has similar solvent properties to mineral spirits, except that it has a much higher vapor pressure, so it flashes off (evaporates) much faster.  Which, by the way, is a reason to do this outside.  A sufficient buildup of laquer thinner fumes (or acetone, for that matter) is explosive if given an ignition source.

   This is a simplistic explanation from the chemistry sense, but acetone and laquer thinner have different "affinities" for dissolving things.  In particular, laquer thinner's good at dissolving "fat-loving" substances like greases, waxes and oils;  acetone's good at dissolving more polar substances, like certain varnishes and other polar type molecules.

6. 
   Ckenney | Mar 27, 2009 04:02am | #16

   O, the pic isn't on my website, it's in the forum posting, #11 in this thread above (46056.11). AFTER my web address, you should see an icon (centered at the bottom) that says
   kellogg.jpg
   627kbChrishttp://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey

7. 
   dkellernc | Mar 27, 2009 04:34pm | #17

   Jeez - I'm such an idiot - I really must not have had enough coffee yesterday.  Either that, or constantly switching between Knots and SMC in different windows has me really screwed up - pictures are immediately viewable in a post on SMC, one has to open them here on Knots - duh...

   From the standpoint of the plane, I'd personally leave it alone, but that's simply my preference - I don't like polished brass or slick, evenly colored surfaces on an antique.  I should note, though, that as far as collectors are concerned, my attitude would probably get pretty close to "overcleaning" - generally speaking, the mantra is "do nothing".

   You're quite right about the wedge being replaced.  However, that might actually be a good thing in a sense.  If you want to use the plow, you'll need a set of plow irons.  Because plow irons all share a very similar geometry, a set from any of the 20th century British manufacturers will fit the plane and be quite usable.

   However, because there's usually a slight thickness variation from manufacturer to manufacturer, the original wedge to the plane will often sit lower or higher than it does with the irons originally supplied with the plane.  That often doesn't look right, and in some cases interferes with the ability to hold the proper depth setting on the iron.  In such a case, a new wedge needs to be made anyway, so having a plow that you paid less for because it had a replaced wedge just gets you  ahead of the game a bit.

8. 
   Ckenney | Mar 27, 2009 06:48pm | #18

   I think I may just do a light surface cleaning and leave it at that. I don't think I will be able to make this a user, because all of the ferrous material has rusted; which would not be so bad except that all of the screws have locked in place. I don't want to try to force them and risk having them break off or strip out. So the depth stop doesn't adjust, and the screw arms are a little loose where they attach to the fence.http://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey

   Edited 3/27/2009 11:49 am ET by Ckenney

9. 
   Gretchen | Mar 26, 2009 10:44pm | #14

   If you can find the old Briwax with the toluene formulation, it is a wonderful wood cleaner along with adding the wax. If you get it work outside.

   Rather than Murphy's, I would use mineral spirits and a terry cloth rag.Gretchen

4. 
   9619 | Mar 25, 2009 03:57pm | #5

   C,
   Nothing to add to what Ray Pine told you. I just wanted to say that I went to your website and that I love your parlor guitar. It looks like it is smiling. :-) You do nice work.
   Mel

   Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

1. 
   Ckenney | Mar 25, 2009 04:13pm | #6

   Thanks Mel, I first saw that type of moustache bridge on a guitar that George Harrison had. Variations of that type have been around since the 1800's. It certainly has more personality than the standard rectangle of most guitars (of course it requires a tad more work to make AND install).Chrishttp://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey

5. 
   AdamCherubini | Mar 26, 2009 07:57pm | #11

   To remove dirt and grime without disturbing the patina use a very dilute solution of ammonia and water (start with 5%).  You should use distilled water.  Clean small areas with a soft cloth, cotton ball, or the like.  The advantage of ammonia is that it is a powerful solvent that leaves no residue.  It's high time we start adopting museum conservation like practices or these tools won't be around for much longer. 

   Rusted screws should be left alone.  If easily removed, a month long soak in kerosene (be sure to elevate above the bottom of the jar where water can lay) will help loosen rust and prevent corrosion in the future.

   That's the "right" thing to do.  It's not what I have always done.  I've hosed planes down with mineral spirits (which doesn't completely go away) or WD-40, slathered them with linseed oil, wax, or both, and scrubbed planes down with green scotch brite pads.  In almost every instance I can think of, I later regretted this and am now as embarassed by my "restorations" as the folks on Antiques Road Show, chastized by a Keno brother for removing the old mucky finish from their maple highboys.  "Had you left this alone, it would have been worth $X.  Now it's worth $0.2X".

   Adam

6. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Mar 28, 2009 04:53am | #19

   Try this one:

   It works well

   Cheers,

   eddie

   -----------------------------------------

   Here's what I was told by a well known tool merchant.

   Nickel plating/steel: DON'T use scotchbrite pads, just use a paste cleaner (eg: Jif, Brasso, etc... on an electric toothbrush - he'd donated one to the cause)

   Wood:
   Restorer that works very well is:

   1 part Metholated Spirit
   1 part Shellite
   1 part Boiled Linseed Oil
   1/4 part white vinegar

   Equivalent terms.

   Australian............UK ................................US
   Metho..........Metholated spirits.........Denatured alcohol
   Shellite............White spirit........... Naptha/paint thinner

   -------------------------------------------------------------------