Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 24, 2010 08:27am | #1

   The wonderful choices we have today in carbide blades is fairly new. Up until the 80's, steel blades were commonly used. They perform very well if properly set and sharpened but they only last a fraction of the time that carbides will. For crosscutting on a RAS, I'd highly recommend a negative hook blade. These help prevent the saw blade from self feeding and diving into the work. I just hauled about 50 steel blades to the recycler yesterday, guess that's what I think about them, today.

2. 
   RalphBarker | Nov 24, 2010 11:22am | #2

   I think the key word is "given". Since they were free, why not get some use out of them?

   On the other hand, I also like the idea of using negative-hook blades on a RAS for safety reasons.

   If nothing else, they'd make a whopper of a wind-chime mobile.

1. 
   BruceS | Nov 24, 2010 01:52pm | #3

   Blades

   I just finished up the final tuning in of the GP.  Squaring it all up.   And ran one of the finer cross cut blades.  Yah Hoo !!    What a difference from the old  70's  Crapsman RAS.    Have the 90 Degree so dead on I scared myself.   But I do think I want to add  a counter ballanced recoil weight so there is a slight tension on the pull stroke and a positive weight on the "nasty" parts to insure they stay back and not wander out.

   I don't think I'm going for the NEGATIVE hook blades.  Unlike a sliding miter saw which cuts on the push and the negative rake pushes the lumber into the fence.   A  RAS cuts on the pull and  a 5 degree (or so) hook pulls the material into the fence.

   I still think a RAS could possibly "climb" even with a NEG hook was used , if over feed.  That is on a flimsey Crapsman RAS, I had it happen.   But this GP is so rigid I can't see the arm deflecting enough to climb over the stock.   Don't worry, fingers stay well out of cutting path if she does climb.

   But I do have a Neg hook available that I will give a go.