Replies

1. 
   jackplane | May 05, 2004 03:54pm | #1

   Cut some cherry veneer from your solid stock and insert in the groove. If this is not an option, I sometimes insert toothpicks into the four corners to eliminate rattle and leave a consistant reveal.

1. 
   Robbie | May 05, 2004 05:43pm | #2

   What about gluing the plywood panels in place.  While no one would do that with solid wood, gluing plywood panels into the frame has been a somewhat  consistently repaeated message on many recent threads.

   Would advise that you do a search on this... 

1. 
   jackplane | May 05, 2004 05:59pm | #3

   Yes, glueing these ply panels in place would work fine.Guess I overlooked that, and gave him a fix for solid wood panels.Either way, it'll work.

     I have done both methods and have no need to do a search.

   Edited 5/5/2004 11:00 am ET by JACKPLANE

1. 
   jpatrick | May 05, 2004 06:09pm | #4

   I've considered gluing the panels in place (in fact tried it) but there is no good way of clamping the panels such that they are flat against the outside face of the groove.  Also, that still leaves a large gap visible on the inside of the door.

   I liked your suggestion of inserting a continuous shim into the groove.  I'm still sorting out in my mind how to cut a <1/16" veneer from solid stock with any kind of accuracy.  Any suggestions there?

   Regards,

   Patrick

1. 
   jackplane | May 05, 2004 06:34pm | #5

   Tilt your ts blade 5 degrees and using a zero clearance throat plate, rip a thin wedge of cherry.

2. 
   Midnight | May 06, 2004 02:25am | #8

   Patrick...

   this sounds depressingly familiar to my first ever project... my prob then was the pair of doors I'd made were far too narrow for the hole they were supposed to fill.... As has been suggested here, I resorted to shims. I cut them as fine as I dared on the table saw, then hand planed to final thickness. Net result is that it looks like it was intended....Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

2. 
   Alan | May 06, 2004 02:19am | #6

   Patrick,

   Could you rip off one side of the groove and then hold the panel in with a molding?  You might even be able to make the edge of the molding nearly disappear by careful matching of the pieces.

   Alan

3. 
   steveWid | May 06, 2004 02:25am | #7

   How about grinding down a steel router bit to cut the 5.2mm?

1. 
   jpatrick | May 06, 2004 06:31am | #10

   I've  considered that as well.  Since the mating tongue on the rails needs to fit into the groove as well, the mating cutter would have to cut a 5.2mm tongue and I would have to add stock to that cutter, which I can't do.  I suppose I could cut the tongue (mortise) by hand, but if I go that route I think I would be inclined to forget about the plywood and resaw some 3/4" cherry I have to make solid 1/4" panels. 

   MLCS sells a special 5.2mm cutter for its reversible rail and stile cutters and then adds a spacer for the mating cut.  But I would have to buy the entire setup ($65 for the rail and stile cutter + $25 for the 5.2mm cutter and shims).  Oh well...using shim wedges to fill the gap still sounds pretty good.

   Regards,

   Patrick

1. 
   ian | May 06, 2004 01:01pm | #11

   I'd turn the groove into a rebate on the inside and hold the panel in place with a strip of molding.

4. 
   notDusty | May 06, 2004 03:33am | #9

                Hi Patrick ,

        My cutters also cut a 1/4" slot. Anymore the square edge detail is what people want on many occasions . If this will work , then what I do is center the panel in the door frame stock , and actually cut the groove on the table saw . I use a dado blade to cut the rail ends to create the tenons. I use a second table saw set up with the dado and another set up with the blade set so you run the stock twice once from each side against the fence to create the 5.2 or whatever size slot you need . This method has no downfall to tearout or snipe as is common on a shaper .Also for myself I can safely run small pieces with ease .

                                     good luck

5. 
   Pertz | May 06, 2004 02:16pm | #12

   I recently had this problem. Had assumed I cut cut the grooves in the stiles/rails with 1/4" worth of stacked dado, and then found the "1/4" cherry to be closer to 1/5th. So I cut the grooves with the table saw blade, setting the fence so that when I ran the rails/stiles first one direction, then flipped it around and ran the other, I wound up with the correct groove. Cut the tenons on the dado, and simple size the height of the dado to get the proper size. Used "spaceballs" from Rockler in the grooves to hold the panel tight. Came out well.