Replies

1. 
   derekborne | Apr 04, 2009 12:27am | #1

   I would suggest Linseed Oil, Walnut Oil, or Mineral Oil.   Those three are all good choices.  They are non toxic and penetrate well.

    

   Derek

2. 
   Ckenney | Apr 04, 2009 01:10am | #2

   If you go to the Woodwhisperer's site and look through the articles, you'll find one on the cutting board finish that he recommends.
   http://thewoodwhisperer.com/cutting-board-finish/
   In the article is a link to a video/podcast that he did where he runs through the various methods, showing how to apply them, and talks about the pros and cons of each.

   Chris

   http://acornhouse.wordpress.com/
   a hobbyist's journey
1. 
   philip_r | Apr 04, 2009 01:17am | #3

   I like mineral oil because it is the easiest to apply and re-apply, has almost no smell and does not get grey when it gets wet.  All are problems with salad bowl finish and wax... but I've never used BLO.   Oh, and mineral oil is cheap.  Pharmacy at Walmart was $1.88 for a pint.  Walnut oil may aggravate nut allergies.

2. 
   BrianDerr | Apr 04, 2009 07:33am | #4

   I tried the Whisperer's favorite finish and was dissappointed. A thin varnish that soaks into the edgrain and seals the wood from the inside is a good idea in theory, but I got a very blushed, faded look after a couple washings. Probably would work even worse on longrain. Maybe an oil varnish blend would be better but I'm going to stick with mineral oil for a while. Would walnut oil go rancid? And would an oil with added driers like usually tung or linseed oil seal better than mineral oil? Brian

3. 
   Gretchen | Apr 04, 2009 02:37pm | #5

   Mineral oil. It can be reapplied as needed, does not get rancid as a nut oil will, does not form a film finish as a varnish or lacquer would which would be cut by the chopping on it--or blush when it is washed, as chopping blocks need to be.

   Gretchen
4. 
   sfmc | Apr 04, 2009 04:59pm | #6

   I would use Minwax Antigue oil finish. It goes on easily and is easy to repair later on.Once the finish cures basically it is nontoxic.

    

   We get to soon oldt und to late schmart

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 05, 2009 12:16am | #7

   I would not use any type of oil other than mineral oil. While they are non-toxic when cured, they tend to have an odor that can be picked up by foods.

   An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

   Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

   Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

   Howie.........
6. 
   Quickstep | Apr 05, 2009 05:04pm | #8

   On my butcher block counter, I used a mixture of mineral oil and paraffin, combined in a double boiler. It was brushed on while it was still warm and then the excess wiped off after it cooled. It does require frequent re-application if the counter is used for food prep. I've also seen recipes that call for beeswax and mineral oil.

   Here are a couple of commercially available products (page to the bottom)

   http://www.johnboos.com/residential/products.cfm?category=jbc0001