Replies

1. 
   EdHarrow | Sep 09, 2003 07:04am | #1

   What are you using to connect tank to box?  Where, along the length of the PVC, is the connection?  Do you really have the water in the tank on a rolling boil?  Where does the condensed water go (there has to be a way to get it out so the box stays hot.) 

   Generally, the fatter, shorter, and straighter the connection the better.  Having it come into the middle of the length shortens the path to the ends.  Also, unless you stuff a potato in the end of the PVC, LOL, you don't want it tight.  Leaking helps to keep fresh, moist, hot steam flowing.  Poke a hole at one end and stick a thermometer in it to monitor the temp. 

   Toasting oak, yummm.  (Note: not a steaming expert by a long site, but I've been around it some.)

1. 
   3fingers | Sep 09, 2003 07:15am | #2

   I think my hose is to long, it is 4ft.  Also I need the length to bend Oak trim, 10ft. 3ft radius

   thanks for the help.

   Edited 9/9/2003 12:17:23 AM ET by 3fingers

2. 
   argus | Sep 10, 2003 02:54am | #3

   In my experience of steaming:

   1. PVC tends to sag when hot. It's best to use metal tube and insulate it well with Fibre glass or the like.
   2. You need to keep it on a slight slope so that condensate runs to one end. Provide somewhere for it to collect. If you are building a permanent rig, consider running a tube from the collection pot to drain into the reservoir.
   3. Have a cork at the highest point to test for pressure and to act as a releif valve. ALWAYS USE INSULATED GLOVES AND GLASSES - STEAM AT PRESSURE IS FAR HOTTER THAN BOILING WATER. About a 6" squirt of steam is enough.
   4. Wood that has dried out (seasoned) seldom bends well. It is best to use green wood, over bend it, then allow the radius to ease out. leave it tied into shape for a week or so. Once it's steamed it will dry out quickly.
   5. Sawn wood will almost always tear out or split because the cut of the saw is straight, whilst the grain run probably isn't. It is best to split the straightest grained wood you can find, then shape it when bent and dry.  
   6. Steaming time varies..... you'll have to experiment.
   7. Make sure that everything you need is laid out ready to hand - you have minutes to form the wood onto your shaping jig. You can't afford any delays at this stage.
   8. For safety, don't work alone!

   Steam bending is a little hit and miss in terms of results, and best done in batches but persevere,

   Hope it helps

1. 
   LouisTorrans | Sep 11, 2003 06:37am | #4

   I didn't notice anyone asking if you were providing a sufficient means for the steam to escape. The box needs a certain amount of "un-air-tightness" to work well. In other words the box needs to allow a bit of steam to exit unencumbered. Once you get a good head of steam up you can generally back off the heat and just let it cruise. Once you reach boiling point you're just wasting gas to keep the flame up on high.

   Your hose size is important. I use a universal car radiator hose. I've heard of guys trying to use stuff like air or gas hose and the diameter is just too small. The steam has to travel. You don't want it all bottled up and you don't want to look like a scene from Saturday Night Fever! Just a nice little cloud that lets you know it's cooking.

   Louis T.