I’m looking for the name of the over arm blade guard used on the table saw in The American Woodworker television series. It looks like it would be much more effective in picking up sawdust and chips than the guard that came with my Exaktor over arm blade guard. I’m just looking to replace the “hood” , thinking I could adapt the new one to work on my Exaktor.
I’d also appreciate any input from persons using the above-mentioned blade guard. Does it really grab at least the majority of the chips/dust thrown up by the blade? I’m using an Oneida 2HP cyclone with 6″ duct going to the saw cabinet and 4″ flex connector to the blade guard.
Replies
Is this it? I don't have anything like it, and not sure you can get one any more:
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6347
Thanks for the reply, but that's not the same one. When I was looking for an overarm blade guard I was hoping to get an Excalibur, but found it to be not avilable and I ended up with the Exaktor which at the time was sold by Rockler. The one on The American Woodworker has a small hinged section on the leading end of the guard which rides in contact with the wood.
Oops. Sorry.
100 HP Cyclone! Helps the stick held to the saw table while cutting it.. OK... So you have to be strong enough to push the stick!
What's The American Woodworker? I've never heard of it, and it doesn't show up on a search. The hood you describe sounds like the PSI one: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TSGUARD.html. I have one, and it collects most of the dust, but not all. It tends to escape a little towards the operator under the front hinge.
Jim
My mistake, it's American Woodshop, not Woodworker. The guard used is not a Pen State.
Excalibur is owned now by General Tools Canada. The manual gives dimensions that may help:http://www.general.ca/pg_index/manuals/50exbce.pdf.  I don't think it's the one on the show -- why not e-mail him?
Jim
http://www.tools-plus.com/general-woodworking-machinery-50-exbc.html
I have one on my Sawstop and love it. I also have the sliding table... it drives all the soccer moms crazy!
Sounds like the show hosted by Scott Phillips, I belive that he is sponsored by Delta, so I believe the guard is the Beismeyer shown here... http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/AccessoriesCategory.aspx?catPath=2250
That looks like it's probably the one, minus the dust hose connection (probably added by the show's host). Thanks for the help
Keith
With the standard Bies dust connection at 2.5 inches, it doesn't pickup much. (It is part of the product if you order it that way and used to come with a long chunk of flex hose to junction to a 4"-6" pick up)
Rather just concentrates it and stops it from blowing out at you.
A 4" pick up at guard would help.
It's OK but rather a pain to move out of the way when doing sliding table and other stuff. The fixture slides out of the over arm mount but the mount itself has to be wheeled back ever so slowly to get away from blade area. Think working on large boxes vertically when separating into lid and bottom.
I would buy a different one if doing again.BB
bioler,
just concentrates it and stops it from blowing out at you.
When running the TS without a guard/DC collection point I notice that most of the dust gets thrown back toward me and to the right when using the sled (sled only rides on the left side of the TS). It would seem that the DC collection point is most effective when connected to the backside of the DC/guard. BUT, the hose blocks your vision more.
I did an experiment and placed a floorsweep connector just below the TS top and it got nearly all the dust, interesting. If I attach the guard it blocks it but accumulates in the guard and makes vision dicey at times.
I'm thinking that if the TS top had holes in it and good collection below the top it might be quite effective in concert with a good guard. Whaddaya think?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
It's not uncommon for people to bore a 3-4 couple few 1.5" or so holes in the fence rail in front of the blade area, plug on one end and put a suction pick up on the other. Controls a lot of the front blow by dust.BB
boiler,
I was thinking that if I could get good collection from below the table then I wouldn't need to have arms and hoses getting in the way. If an arm is needed then I would want it ceiling mounted but not all woodshops can easily accomodate this kind of setup.
Must make for a few anxious moments when drilling the TS top........ Kinda like to know if it's gonna works beforehand
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 9/24/2009 11:07 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Bob,I would also be a touch trepidatious as to boring directly into the TS top. Hmmmm.
It would be addition air intake drawing with the flow as opposed to the bies which is pulling opposite to the kerf flow. (see "Biesemeyer" on Delta's site whichshows a picture of the unit with vacuum.
Would it be much different than having a zero tolerance plate but outside the actual blade kerf area, have a series of..say 3/4" holes?
I do know that it requires some major suck to get that little stuff that's kicked out at high rpm up into an over hanging guard. The one that Sarge uses seems to work rather well plus it's safe.
Never have seen one that was even close to satisfactory myself (re:dust not safety).
As to support, I would always go with a verticals hose/guard (say on scissored access) as opposed to a table parallel unit - unless you can swing the entire arm out of the way when needed.
The major problem for overheads is they can't move with the saw for those with units on wheels. The major problem with parallel arms is they are always in the way on one end of the saw.
I personally could live with an overhead 4-6" hose/Sarge's guard and a extra kitchen stove type of hood umbrella'd over the whole mess.Of course in stainless by Wolfe with granite work surfaces and 2 matching stainless below cabinet microwaves to reheat the coffee while popping corn :)JohnEdit: One major problem with the vac connection on the bies is that it is accessed toward the bow causing the air flow to try an catch the dust rather than have it attached pointed to the stern and the blade as to let the dust come to it. I think it would make a big difference. After Bill Biesemeyer died, I don't think Delta concerned itself with any further refinements to the guards or fences.
Edited 9/25/2009 9:10 am by boilerbay
I think the reason mine works well is the fact I don't have it branched off the 6" cyclone line. I have the full 6" plpe going to the bottom and a totally separate 2 1/2" going to the top powered by a 5 1/2 Shop Vac that sits under the right extention table. A cyclone works on mass air flow. The SV supplies suction to a narrower point and in this case the port on top of my plastic shield which is directly over the front teeth of the TS.
Have a good day Doc...Sarge..
Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
Sarge,I have almost the same set up on that saw except for your neat little guard. I think yours would look cool with some racing stripes!You have a good one too,Doc
You're running a six inch line off a shop vac? And it works?
Here's post #24 again...
"I think the reason mine works well is the fact I don't have it branched off the 6" cyclone line. I have the full 6" plpe going to the bottom and a totally separate 2 1/2" going to the top powered by a 5 1/2 Shop Vac that sits under the right extention table. A cyclone works on mass air flow. The SV supplies suction to a narrower point and in this case the port on top of my plastic shield which is directly over the front teeth of the TS"....
3 HP cyclone with 6" line to bottom of TS. Dust port hole is enlarged (I enlarged it with my little Bosch barrel grip jigsaw) to take it without a reduction as on most TS's. A separate 2 1/2" from a SV is directed to an over-head plastis guard...
Have a good week-end...Sarge..
Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
+1 on the shop vac/DC compbo. I have the same setup, with a shop vac hose going to a Shark Guard and a 6" DC hose serving the saw cabinet. Works near perfectly. I can still defeat it if I trim less than 1/8", but stll works pretty well then.David B
"I can still defeat it if I trim less than 1/8", but stll works pretty well then".
And that's why a dust mask hangs on the wall beside my TS where I can get to it quickly. :>)
Have a good week-end David...Sarge..
Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
They have version of the Biesemeyer that have the dust hose port. And, used to sell a conversion part to add it to the hood that didn't have it. They may still sell it, but I haven't looked since Delta, killed the Biesemeyer web site.
I built this one and have been very pleased with its performance over the past 5 years. I think the total cost including the blast gate and flex hose was about $80.00.
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/overarm_guard.shtml
Doug
I have the Excllibur and it works well. Particularly when ripping boards wider than the blade protector. If taking off an edge where only one side of the blade protector makes contact with the board you get blow back. So far im happy with the system.
I bought mine from Highland Hardware a few years ago. Try looking at Woodcraft. I think Excalibur system is made by a company called Somerset. You can try a search under that name ,
Jabe
I posted this on 48072. It may be of interest to you.
You might take a look at the Shark Guard. It is not a true riving knife however, IMHO, it performs almost the same function.
I now raise my blade to full height when cutting which reduces the forward thrust of the teeth at the rear of the blade. It is VERY easy to put on or remove and the above-table dust collection is great.
Here is the link: http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.phpFrosty
Frosty
“If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.”
Milton Friedman
Why not make a replacement from 1/4" polycarbonate?
I had an Excalibur for a while.
When I saw it, I expected to be able to cut plywood in a coat and tie-- which is not the case.
It didn't collect much dust, relative to what was there, and I ended up selling it when I put a router in the table extension.
Here is a different approach to dust capture on top of the table. The Shark Guard provides a hose connection in their blade guard. The guard can be removed or put in place in 30 seconds or less. Same for the splitter which allows the blade to be raised high enough to match riving knife safety.
The clothes line does not come with the guard! I rigged a pulley to stow the hose up and out of the way when I want the whole surface of my saw for assembly etc.
Frosty
“If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.”
Milton Friedman
Frosty,
Now that's more like I was thinking as to the guard, i.e. it's toward the back side of it, kinda behind the blade. Does it obstruct your vision when making the cut? Looks like it wouldn't but have not used one.
The ZCI keeps a good portion of the dust below deck of the TS. What ends up on top seems to come from the teeth as they rise back up through the ZCI and it would seem like the Shark would capture most of that dust as it's pretty much trapped within the guard.
Where I get most tabletop dust is when using my sled, which rides only to the left of the blade. Dust spews back at you on the right which is left open as the guard rides up on the sled/material.
I hooked up a floor sweep which sits just below the TS top and that get's nearly all of it. Kinda crude but seems to work ok.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,Glad to hear from you again.I agree. Most of the dust comes from the rear of the blade as it rises above the ZCI. I will post a shot of one of the three splitters that comes with the Shark:Low clearance, Medium (up to about 1") and High (to the max hight of the blade.In the photo I show that the blade can, and I think should, be raised to the max height on any of the splitters to change the "force" from horizontal (tends to throw the wood forward) to almost vertical (where there is no forward thrust.)The Shark is about the easiest thing to install/remove I have ever owned - but the changeover of splitter heights is a PITA. Not difficult but time consuming. (5 minutes) I guess you don't really have to change that often. I must be getting cranky/impatient in my old age.I should note that I use all 4" ducts from the Oneida cyclone. (I forget the HP.) In this case one connection is at the lower-rear of the Unisaw, the other with the manual blast gate you can see on the hose at the top of the guard. Both feed a common duct to the cyclone.Frosty“If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.” Milton Friedman
Frosty,
How is the Shark guard when cutting bevels? I often use my smaller version of the Ultimate Sled which rides only to the left of the blade; am curious as to how the Shark would work?
Currently making a dual runner sled for cutting bevels and or mitering small stock. Of course this will require removal of the guard which as you say is easy to do.
I use the BORK an dlike it a lot. It follows the blade and I daresay I think it will go through the new sled with no problems, not that I would need it to - it too is easily installed/removed.
Still wrestling between ceiling mounted home made or maybe the Shark. Got more heed scratching to do.
Oh almost forgot. I'm collecting from down in front of the Unisaw. It seems to work better than from the rear as the blades tosses it to the front it seems. If I run the saw without DC at all most of the sawdust ends up piled against the removeable hatch on the front of the saw.
Replaced the hatch with a home made connection to the DC.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 9/27/2009 9:13 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
You mentioned you are getting dust on the right side of your sled as it is a half sled with the main body to the left. I have never used a sled... until today after I built the one by Rob Porcaro in the current feature in the Woodworking Life when you first go into the forum. Took about and hour and a half during a glue-up. IMO.. this is the best sled idea I have ever seen.
Two part sled made of MDF. The main sliding sled left has a "forward fence" which allowed me to cross-cut 28" today on a table top. There is no need for sled support in front of the TS to do that cut. And the separate right side of the sled which is used to avoid drop of cut-offs creates a Zero Clearance sled. I use an over-head Penn State shield with dust port that I mounted directly over the front teeth.
I have a 6" cyclone line in the bottom of the TS and a 2 1/2" line connected directly to a shop vac under the right extension wing. With Zero Clearance.. large air flow to bottom and direct suction on a basically closed shield on top of my home-made crown guard.. there simply is no saw dust. I can also see the blade at all times and designed my shield to just swing up and out of the way prepping the cut before I lower it for the dirty work.
Here's a picture... need more... ask...
Sarge..
Woodworkers' Guild of Georgia
Bob,I've not had occasion to cut bevels with the Shark Guard yet. But I just checked the saw and the splitter does tilt with the blade. It is mounted on the trunion assembly.One item I forget to mention; I would guess it is true of most over-the-blade dust pickups: you are limited on the width of cut between the guard and the fence if you are cutting long narrow pieces.Frosty“If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.” Milton Friedman
3x for the shark guard. Just ordered mine with a 4" port to connect to my cyclone. I'll post pics once it arrives (any day now!)
Good. I hope you are as satisfied as I am.If "any day now" holds true, he has really stepped up production. I had to wait at least two months - but the quality is top rate.Frosty“If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert,
in 5 years there’d be a shortage of sand.” Milton Friedman
To knock some of that dust out of the blade, I even tried mounting an air line under the table to blow 100 psi air across the gullets.That did not make any difference. It was too bad the high speed video they did of the saw stop did not include footage of how the dust is created, tossed about by the blade.They claim their new skinny blade guard on the PFC saw gets about 99% of the dust.
That is good to know, won't try that.
Edward
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