Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Mar 03, 2010 01:15pm | #1

   Nothing against paint here. Do you have scraps of wood left over? I love Milk Paint. Try a whipe on oil like MinWax or others. Acrylic paint is safe.

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 03, 2010 02:35pm | #2

   WillGeorge has given you a good idea with the milk paint idea.  Millk paint goes on bare wood,  though it will likely take a couple of coats.  Then sand with 320 (it dries naturally rough) and give a coating of oil/varnish mix to intensify the color and prevent water spotting. 

   If that's not your style I would generally prefer an oil- based enamel, though the top of the line 100% acyrlyic enamels will also work fine.  In either case, begin with a good primer.  Shellac based BIN is good.  Apply a couple of coats, and then sand to remove imperfections (and reveal any in the wood) before applying the enamel.  If the primer coat isn't perfectly smooth, with any dings patched, etc, the top coat won't be "right" either. 

   I assume  that spraying is not in your toolkit.  If that's wrong, then let us know.

1. 
   trush | Mar 03, 2010 08:46pm | #4

   I have spray equipment.

   Just want to be safe for kids use.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 03, 2010 10:10pm | #6

   Just about all finishing materials are safe, particularly clear finishes.  But now that lead is gone, there aren't paints that really cause hazards when cured.   After curing, the various things like driers and such become encapsulated into the plastic film of the paint and don't have potential to cause harm. 

   Pigmented lacquer would be fine, if you have the capacity to use explosive films.  So would acyrlic finishes with pigment, such as those under Target or Enduro labels.  The finishes made for spraying will spray a lot easier than brush on acyrlic paints.  Aimed at a more professional market, they will have technical data sheets which would call out particular primer schedules if needed.  These waterborne acyrlics are plenty tough.  They lack some of the moisture and chemical resistance of oil based enamel, but that's likely to be overkill for beds anyway.     

3. 
   lwj2 | Mar 03, 2010 04:19pm | #3

   If the bunk beds are going to be used by small kids, I suggest you use a good-quality scrubable enamel, sand smooth, prime coat, sand lightly, paint again. Using maple, you probably won't have to do a third coat.

4. 
   trush | Mar 03, 2010 08:49pm | #5

   Thanks for your interest in my problem.

5. 
   Gretchen | Mar 04, 2010 07:53am | #7

   If they are a pretty wood like maple, why are you painting them. They would be beautiful if just finished with varnish--and you probably would never have to paint them again. Paint WILL get dinged and start looking "bad".. If you look at high end beds you will find them finished to the natural wood.

   If you DO paint, I second the idea of milk paint. I love the look.   It will be bulletproof, but it also will NEVER come off, if you ever decide to refinish to the natural wood.  The colors are VERY nice--but do remember the words "permanently painted wood" after using milk paint.