Replies

1. 
   wrick2003 | Dec 12, 2002 04:16pm | #1

   mt, there are several ways to attach your FF but biscuits are probably the best way, if you know what you're doing. try prefinishing both the carcase and the FF before assembly, it makes more easier glue cleanup, and then you don't have to try to stain in all of those noks and crannies. good luck.

2. 
   vacabby | Dec 13, 2002 03:07am | #2

   Glue will work fine.   FYI, I build all my FF first and then build the carcass.   Seams a bit slow at first but works well.   After all, if you used a story stick (layout stick)  the figures are as they apply to the FF,  Right?   I place a small dado in the back of the FF and insert the carcass to hide any irregularity or tears in the plywood side material.   I am still an old-school kind of guy that uses M & T FF.    I had a young man come to work with me for a summer and the first week he helped me with a rather large cabinet project.   After 3 or 4 days he was quite upset at the small pile of FF we had assembled.   By the end of the week we had the entire project finished.   Once I have the FF assembled the measurements are right there for all part of the carcass.   Just another way to approach this type of project.   I can tell you however that if you try this method you will find it to be very easy and produce high quality results.

3. 
   mike4244 | Dec 13, 2002 03:13am | #3

   I rabbet the back of the face frames 3/16" deep by the thickness of the cases. Glue and clamp, biscuits not needed, but would not be a bad idea if the doors are heavy.

4. 
   Bengst | Dec 13, 2002 03:19am | #4

   I like to use pocket holes in the carcase and screw into the face frame with a little bit of glue too.  No need for clamps really.  The screws clamp for me.  Then you don't have to wait for glue to dry before any more work can be done on the cabinet.

   Jeffrey   

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/12/2002 7:21:00 PM ET by Bengst

1. 
   noone51 | Dec 13, 2002 07:04am | #7

   Mike and Planewood, you have it right. Too many people take the casework for granted and rely on the face frame to take up the slack. If you do the casework correctly then the face frames are just the final piece of the puzzle and you can use the types of mounting that you describe.

   However, if the cases are not correct and square.... Well, thats your problem, buy a Kreig pocket jig and hope for the best.

   Disclaimer --- I have a Kreig pocket jig and use it all the time... Hey, sometimes a dollar is important and more often than not my casework is not all that great.

   LOL, but its true..

5. 
   mrles | Dec 13, 2002 03:20am | #5

   Michael

   I am just finishing a vanity for a bathroom, I used biscuits to put my FF together but a few nails and glue to attach it to the case. The nails really only hold it tight against the plywood while the glue sets. I think the biscuits would probably add some holding strength that the nails don't. Nails going into the edge of plywood is like going into end grain, the weakest joint possible. There is not a lot of pressure on a FF.

   Good Luck and God Bless

   les   

6. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 13, 2002 03:42am | #6

   If you want to jazz it up a bit, try this.

   45 the corners of the face frame.  Route a 1/4" wide slot, 1/4" from the edge, and about 1/8" deep.  Pre-drill and nail the face frame on (inside the slots) then glue a contrasting wood strip into the slots.  Sand smooth and finish.  I used to use a similar technique when making credenza's longer than an 8' sheet of plywood.  Just edge butt the top pieces and route a slot over the gap then fill with a matching hardwood strip.

   I once did an entertainment center (including the face frame) by using tight fitting dowels without glue.  That way it could be shipped disassembled and easily put together with a rubber mallet.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy
   PlaneWood

7. 
   booch | Dec 13, 2002 03:16pm | #8

   Last option, that my dad taught me, is to make lap joints for the face frame. Dado out the intersection of the face frame boards. Generally the horizontals hold the top surface and the verticals are dado'd on the face to match the back of the horizontals. That makes the face frame (which you've already done I think)

   After the FF is made, I use 3 or 4 dowel pins merely as locators after the dry fit. Lightly put a bead of glue on the mating surface (the Carcase face that is) and set it on the pins. Then use brads to keep the FF adjacent to the carcase while the glue dries.

   Realistically you only open 1 door at a time on a cabinet. you slam it. go to the next. The FF joints get the abuse, not the carcase frame, or even the interface of the two.

   Take it easy it'll look fine.