Replies

1. 
   BenM | Feb 17, 2009 09:02pm | #1

   Wood is not a suitable material for a bathroom vanity top.  You could try to educate your customer but assuming that won't work I would use epoxy.  I would use several coats on the end grain where the top goes.  And try to get a waiver from your customer or you will be coming back in a few months and refinishing it for free.  Good luck.

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Feb 17, 2009 11:23pm | #2

   I agree with Ben -- your best (only)bet is an epoxy finish.

   There are marine grade epoxy finishes available -- used when making wood boats. (Boats that need work every few years, because the epoxy, though waterproof, is brittle and prone to chips and cracks.) Learn about them, and use one.

   And, like Ben said, make sure your customer understands that wood is not a good choice, even with the best of epoxy finishes.

   Also, learn how to do the maintenance every few years. If the customer is truly enamored with the maple, you will have some income security.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
1. 
   BrianDerr | Feb 18, 2009 08:53am | #5

   So what is the maintainence you mention for epoxy? Is it more difficult than for other, more conventional finishes? Never used the stuff, but am interested. Brian

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Feb 18, 2009 12:22pm | #7

   The maintenance is not just for the epoxy. Its for the wood.Bathrooms are wet places, and wet places aren't good to wood. In addition to the moisture in the air, the countertop will see spillss/splashes of mouthwash, aftershave, toothpaste, soap, hair 'product', and water.And there will be mornings when everybody is just in a hurry -- too much of a hurry to clean stuff up. Its not that your customer is known to not clean up, its that there will be those times....And those times will play havoc with most finishes that can be put on wood.I agree with others that varnish could be used -- but only if every spill will be wiped up, cleaned, then dried. Every spill, every time.The neeeded maintenance? Simple. Sand off the damaged finish, and apply new.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

3. 
   hammer1 | Feb 18, 2009 12:27am | #3

   An oil based varnish would be fine. Just inform your customer that the top may need refinishing down the road. There are thousands of wood tops out there. Depending on a lot of factors, they can last many years before needing attention. Spilled nail polish remover, abrasive cleaners and other chemicals aren't good for the finish. The customer will have to be careful with these and wipe up standing water. Pretty easy to sand and put on a new coat before it gets too bad.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   BrianDerr | Feb 18, 2009 09:02am | #6

   I think I share your attitude about wood tops. Those with 'horror stories' simply waited until it was too bad, as you say, before giving any attention. Not for everyone, for sure, but also not a bad idea if you love wood. Hey, its not like you're WALKING on them or anything . . .Brian

1. 
   hammer1 | Feb 18, 2009 03:46pm | #8

   My father made a pine top for his bathroom about 20 yrs. ago. Hardware store polyurethane. Has a couple of ceramic sinks, antique faucets in the wood. I see and use it regularly. It's been fine and I don't think it's ever been recoated. I have oak edging on my kitchen countertop. I have recoated that twice in 28 yrs. I've been in the business since the 60's, many wood countertops of all types and species, commercial to residential. The finishes don't last forever but the wood is easy to re-new. My boats have wood on them, and my tool boxes are wood and ride in an open pick up. Of the finishes I've used, I prefer an oil based varnish. It outlasts ordinary poly and doesn't require stripping. I don't see any reason to avoid wood or use special finishes, just maintain it when needed.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   hubiedoo517 | Feb 18, 2009 07:46pm | #9

   Wow, thanks for all the info. I wasn't sure if I would get any replies, being the first time I have used "Knots". I have a meeting with the customer later today and will inform them of the problems with a wood counter top. If they still insist I think I will then make a sample board of each finish. One epoxy and one the oil varnish I usually use. I usually use one coat of Generals Seal-A-Cell followed by 4-5 coats of the Arm-R-Seal, and on tabletops a coat of good wax. The wax seems to protect the surface from water somewhat. Anyway thanks for the good advice everyone it is greatly appreciated...

1. 
   DustyGeorge | Feb 18, 2009 08:04pm | #10

   Hubie,

   Make sure you finish the underside of the top.  Otherwise it will try to curl up on you.

   Good Luck, GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old.  You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->

2. 
   brad805 | Feb 18, 2009 08:13pm | #11

   Any idea what NA epoxy may be similar to the Timbertect Epoxy William Garvey (UK Bespoke) uses for their Teak Sinks?  Yes, they build teak kitchen sinks and have been doing so for quite some time.  Those crafty Englishmen. I know it sounds crazy, but the reviews on the wood artist gallery are pretty good.

   Brad

4. 
   SteveSchoene | Feb 18, 2009 04:20am | #4

   Epoxy in this situation makes sense, but NOT as the final finish.  I would recommend using a coat, perhaps two at most,  of low viscosity epoxy to provide a more effective moisture seal than varnish alone.  But this should not be allowed to really build a coating on the surface.  Epoxy doesn't level well, and isn't very UV resistant.  Be sure to do both top and bottom, and particularly, with a few extra coats of epoxy, the cut edge for the sink. 

   But then, for the final finish, I would use a good phenolic resin varnish to provide a dressier look than can be had with epoxy. 

   Other possibilities exist if you are equipped to spray finishes that include more toxic solvents.  For example, clear two-part epoxy  is considerably more bullet proof than the varnish.  This is pure polyurethane resin, not the uralkyd combinations that are in single part epoxies.  But this isn't an amateur product, requiring serious ventilation control to protect both applicator and the neighborhood, and personal protection that goes beyond your run of the mill organic respirator since isocyanates and the like are included in the componets.  This might be sub'ed out to marine finishing shops.  But if ever this should need repair--it will only be removable with abrasion. 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/17/2009 8:21 pm ET by SteveSchoene