Question:
I am making a Baker’s table out of 40mm thick oaken planks that are 15 inches wide. The wood has air-dried down to a 11% moisture content but there are hairline checks in some parts.
One expert said to rub canning wax onto the wood on all sides and then heat with a hair dryer. After that, scrape the surfaces thoroughly and finish with mineral oil. The wax is supposed to retard bacterial growth while another said, “Never use wax.”
I would like various opinions on the subject from voices of experience.
Background: I am an engineer working 10-12 hours a day in my specialty – acoustics – sound, noise and vibration. I have my own woodmill and am well equipped but because of past serious medical problems and the workload, have been averaging about 3 hrs. per year at my hobby. The health is improving and I hope to spend more time making things of wood.
Question:
I made a round table top for my wife of about 64 inch diameter of heavy white oak that has air dried for fourteen years but has not yet had any finish of any kind. A few narrow cracks are now to be seen at an edge. How shall I seal off those cracks and then seal the hitherto unsealed edges, topside and underside.
What is the best way to finish a dinner table surface? Is it true that as in England there are no English muffins – also in Denmark there is no such thing as “Danish Oil”? One woodworker told me that the content of “Danish Oils” can vary all over the place – from plain junk to some really good components. The table is to be used for mealtime family gatherings.
Question:
I hve three crotch mahogany boards – twenty or more inches wide but alas and alack, there are a few gaps near some knots and two ends have rather big checks.
How do I seal off the cracks at the knots? How shall I close and seal off the end checks that are up to six millimeters wide and nearly a foot deep in from the end. Is there, at this late time, any merit in trying to seal the end grains in these S2S boards? Is epoxy hard on planer knives?
To match colors, would I use sanding dust from those very boards to color the uncured epoxy?
Replies
To match colors, would I use sanding dust from those very boards to color the uncured epoxy?
Well... yes. But, the theory is more that the sawdust will allow the patch to accept stain much like the surrounding wood will. That said..., this type of patch does also help match the unstained wood as well as locking the wood in so that the cracks won't move any further. One does have to be careful with this type of patch on unstained creations that are to be finished, though. If there is a lot of variation in the color of the wood, such as a dark heartwood and a much lighter sapwood, the patch will remain pretty obvious if the sawdust used doesn't at least aproximate the color of the wood surrounding the patch.
Regards,
Kevin
Thank you Kevin!! Are there recommended kinds of epoxy to use? At what proportion of sawdust to epoxy does one apply it? BK a begiinnerat this but a long time hobbyist with simple woodwork..
Are there recommended kinds of epoxy to use?
Well... that depends on who you ask, I suppose. Clear 5-minute epoxy works well.
At what proportion of sawdust to epoxy does one apply it?
That's an even more subjective thing. I don't know that anyone does it by a given proportion. Just mix in the sawdust until you're happy with what you see. Maybe 1 to 1 would be sufficient. It's hard to measure because your working with a liquid and a ground up solid.
You might try purchasing a copy of Jeff Jewitt's book, "Great Wood Finishes" at your local bookstore. He covers the whole sawdust/epoxy thing in there along with a ton of other stuff... and it's targeted at the home hobbyist and craftsmen (or craftspeople if you prefer...).
Regards,
Kevin
I would agree with all of what you say, but would add that to the large end checks, 12" by 1/4", I would add a butterfly, either exposed on the top, to the end, or to the undeside, depending upon taste. I would be concerned that the epoxy will fill the void, but not prevent additional checking.
Alan
Yeah, I thought about that. I guess I assumed that he'd cut the worst of it out. I know I would... If the gap is wide enough I don't think there is a prayer of a chance of getting it to blend in with the surrounding wood short of hiring someone who is really, really good at faux painting who can make it look realistic.
Regards,
Kevin
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