Replies

1. 
   EdHarrow | Nov 15, 2004 09:01pm | #1

   If your Delta is like my Delta the arbor is a left-hand thread...

   When I change blades I:

   1. Unplug the thing!
   2. Raise the blade all the way
   3. Find a handy bit of wood to stick under an equally handy tooth
   4. Loosen the nut. 
   5. In other words, I might use that thin, off-set wrench for installing a blade, but not for taking one off. 
2. 
   RickL | Nov 15, 2004 10:05pm | #2

   Been doing blade changes for 35 years with one wrench. Don't have any need to make things more complicated than it has to be. The inside wrench is the same as the arbor nut wrench if it follows the same pattern as a Unisaw. I'm against using two blades to install a blade. Holding the blade with a quick turn of the wrench is enoug torque for even a full dado set. Seen too many times where folks think they are doing the right thing by making sure it's good and tight. The start up torque from a saw actually tightens the nut even more. I've had too many saws where nut was over tightened and what that does is mess up the threads on the nut and the arbor.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/15/2004 2:11 pm ET by rick3ddd

1. 
   cyberdust | Nov 15, 2004 11:47pm | #3

   Thanks for the valuable feedback.

   Perhaps I'm just being over cautious about my thin kerf Forrest WWII blade. I don't want to do anything to harm it that's why I tried to use the 2 wrenches vs. the block-o-wood stop approach. That blade was really stuck on there.

   Having worked on a lot of mechanical things over the years I've learned never to over torque as most inexperienced people make the mistake of doing so that will never be an issue for me.

   -Cyberdust

1. 
   Steinmetz | Nov 16, 2004 03:59am | #4

   CYBERDUST.  If you know the size of the original open end wrench,

   do what I've been doing for years. Look around in flea markets for open end end wrenches The thinner ones are called Tappet wrenches.

    In auto repair, they are used to tighten 'Jam' nuts, where you use two wrenches to lock two nuts on a shaft. (Also, to tighten air/oil/water tubular fittings)

   These wrenches come double sided.

    Even if you can't get the correct size, take a smaller size and carefully grind the 'lips' to fit .

    If the two sided wrench seems like overkill, grind a small notch across the wrench. (On both sides)  Place the unwanted end in a vise and wrap a towel or rag around the tool and snap off the unwanted end . 

    These wrenches are made from chrome molybdenum and are dropped forged .( USA made to boot.)

   The box wrench used on the nut can be made from an automotive wrench as well , but must be the correct size . If needed, these wrenches can be heated and bent offset using an acetylene torch .

   I've made them for routers/ Dremel tools/ table saws/l lathes/milling machines etc etc

   (Even Fordom flexible shaft tools)

   Instead of using a block of wood on your thin blades, lay a length of hardwood dowel across a gullet in the blade ( It's safer on the fingers)   Steinmetz

1. 
   cyberdust | Nov 17, 2004 03:03am | #7

   Thanks for the tip. In fact I actually ground the sides of my Dewalt router wrench as it fit "good enough" to do the job for that moment I needed it. I'm not too concerned with altering it since I can use any type of open end wrench on the router since there's lots of room to access the collet. I'll start looking for a Tappet wrench for a permanent solution.
   -Cyberdust

2. 
   JohnWW | Nov 16, 2004 09:05pm | #6

   In the Q&A section of the current Fine Woodworking Tools and Shop issue, #174, there is a technique for tightening and loosening saw blades that uses only a single wrench but doesn't require levering against a tooth of the blade.  You are correct in both not wanting to damage the blade by levering against it and in avoiding over tightening, it's a common mistake that can damage the machine.

   Also, a touch of grease or stick lubricant on the threads will probably prevent the nut from siezing as tightly in the future, especially if the blade doesn't get changed often.

   John W. 

1. 
   cyberdust | Nov 17, 2004 03:06am | #8

   Thanks, I'll lookup that article.I'm actually thinking of using anti-seize lubricant on threads to keep it from freezing over time again.
   -Cyberdust

3. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 16, 2004 07:30am | #5

   As far as replacing the broken wrench is concerned, I am guessing you don't have a lot of time to be making your own or searching in flea markets.

   The easiest way would be to take note of the model number of the saw, and call Delta. They will look up the wrench and send you a replacement -- for a fee, of course. But it shouldn't be very much.

   As for the wood block, another way is to take a 6-8" piece of board that is cut along one edge at a 45 degree angle. Shove the angled edge into the blade; it will catch one of the teeth. and you can then use the wrench while the blade remains locked.

1. 
   cyberdust | Nov 17, 2004 03:10am | #9

   Thanks, but, I don't think I'll get another Delta wrench since it's too flimsy. From the other suggestions I think I'll pursue modifying a wrench for this specific task.
   -Cyberdust

4. 
   lwj2 | Nov 18, 2004 06:33am | #10

   I can't recall the size, but when one of mine broke at the jaw, I went to Sears and bought a pair of Craftsman box-open wrenches of the proper size and ground the heads down on my grinder to fit the space (used the flat side to do it, a belt sander would also work). They hang on the nail with my not-in-use blades.

   Works a lot better than the steel stampings Delta furnishes.

   FWIW, I keep a gallon of peanut oil around to cool stuff I'm grinding. About five dollars at Kroger several years ago.

   Good luck.

   Leon Jester, Roanoke VA

   Q: How do you know when a politician is lying?

   A: His lips are moving.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 18, 2004 06:58am | #11

   <<"FWIW, I keep a gallon of peanut oil around to cool stuff I'm grinding. About five dollars at Kroger several years ago.">>Why not water (evaporation)? Doesn't the oil get rancid after all that time?

1. 
   lwj2 | Nov 18, 2004 07:48am | #12

   So far it hasn't. Been a couple of years, I store it in it's gallon jug when I'm not using it.Peanut oil has a fairly high flame point, that's why I use it. Don't like using water, it causes rust. I also use the peanut oil to temper stuff. (For that it has to be at about 200 deg F.)Regards,Leon Jester, Roanoke VA

1. 
   nikkiwood | Nov 18, 2004 08:21am | #13

   Leon -- thanks for info........

1. 
   lwj2 | Nov 18, 2004 02:25pm | #14

   Glad it was of some use.Leon Jester, Roanoke VA

2. 
   cyberdust | Nov 19, 2004 01:37am | #15

   Leon - I appreciate the suggestions.I'm now of that mindset. I will try to find a good set of wrenches to modify (grind) for the TS. I'm going to try some used tool/salvage places first. This might be a good use of Harbor Freight. I'll use a brand name later if I don't find what I need.That's a great tip using the peanut oil to aneal the hot tool! I had never thought of that.-Cyberdust