I’ve been asked by a friend at work if I’d be interested in making a table top for his 50ft sail boat. Concept’s real light on details right now, but from what I understand from his outline it has to be multi-functional.
It’s destined to go into a “comfy seating area”, basically a square cornered inverted U shape. He’s already fabricated and installed an adjustable height pedestal that this top’s to mount onto. So far he’s outlined that the table should serve as a coffee / dining table (pedestal alters the height to suit) with the desire to have it infill the U shape entirely should there be a need for additional bunk space.
So far I’ve established that along with requiring adjustable height, there’s a desire for the width to adjust too by as much as a foot. His preferred design would be for the table to open down the longest centre-line to allow an additional leaf to drop in. I’ve already discussed the idea of adding cleats to the seats to support the top when used as a bunk; he’s veto’d that, saying he wants the pedestal to take 100% of the weight 100% of the time.
Just to make things interesting, there’s a requirement to add a lip to the outside edges of the table to prevent anything on it from sliding off as the boat pitches and rolls.
So far, I’ve highlighted that while everything he’s suggested is doable, getting it all into one package will be harder. Supporting that package entirely on a pedestal base is harder yet; I’ve a vision of the thing going pear-shaped in an instance of two occupants sitting on the open end at the same time. It’s not so much the design of the table top itself that’s bothering me, but how to modify the support in such a way that it can deal with the loads and leverages involved.
Any ideas..???
Mike Wallace
Stay safe….Have fun
Replies
Just about any boat with a filler like this has a lip formed in the base of the seating. I have never seen a table that carries all of the weight, all of the time. If the table is large enough, you can(actually, should is a better word here) use two pedestals, too. One will not do the job if the weight is on the outside and there's only one point of support. If you want more ideas, go to the web sites for the major boat builders and look at the way they support tables and fillers.
One will not do the job if the weight is on the outside and there's only one point of support.
I kinda figured as much; I can't see a way out of it without resorting to some way of carrying or locking the outer edges to the seat boxes.
Thanks for the web site suggestion... hadn't thought to try that...
<having a spectacularly blonde night....Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Howdy Mike,
What is the rough size of the table? Are we talking 2' x 3' or more like 4'x8'? Can you elaborate on the design of the pedestal, ie what it's made of and how it functions, be it mechanical, hydraulic, etc. In the theater of my mind, I'm picturing a hydraulic pedestal like that of an office-desk chair. Is it segmented, one cylinder sliding into another? Regards, Brett.
bird... I know this is as much use as a chocolate fireguard, but right now I've no more detail than already posted. I think the pedestal is 2 piece telescopic ali tube, but wouldn't swear to it; I'll post more detail as n when I get it. I donno if there's any mechanical assist inside the pedestal.
About all I know is it's destined to go into a 50 ft charter boat, possibly 8 berths, so right now I'm picturing a table large enough to seat that many... He likes to make things easy... Ahem...Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Table and seat bases are usually made up of an aluminum cup that mounts in the floor or deck with an aluminum tube that has a taper on both ends, the top fitting into another mount specifically for the underside of a table. If you google marine hardware or boat hardware, you may get a pretty good selection. Otherwise, http://www.boatowners.com is one that shows up on google. Perko may have something, or Taylor Made."I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 5/30/2005 9:11 pm ET by highfigh
Mike, IMOO one of the things the table must be able to do is to hold up to a line-backer dropping on it. One of the things to remember with things nautical is that, unlike household furniture (unless in CA of course, LOL) people bounce of boat interiors, and the stuff has to stand up to said impact.
You might consider asking here: http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum&f=1&DaysPrune=100
The bits around the edges are called "fiddles" IIRC. If this is to be an underlayment for a berth, you might consider making them removable. In anycase, they do not meet at corners to faciliate cleaning the table.
thanks for the link Ed.. I'll spend some time there shortly. Linebacker huh?? They're a rare brreed around here but I hear what you're saying; Mk1 brick outhaus is well within my capabilities.. Ahem..
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Mike, you still don't have all of the requirements yet. It should only weigh 5# and you should also design it so that it can be set up in the cockpit. It is so much nicer to have meals out there when the weather is nice.
I have some of the aluminum honey-comb like they use in jets that I will be veneering for mine.
There is an old saying, "Anything you do to improve one aspect of boat design has an adverse trade-off in another area. Just because the boat-owner wants it to be that way does not mean that his is the best way.
You might think about having the table top rotate 90* to get the table leaves to bridge the birth fronts if the measurements are close. Good luck Keith
variable height, multi function and removable too..????? Steadyy... even I have limits to what I can do... ;) Nice idea re rotating into position though... I'll bear that in mind.
ThanksMike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Hello, Mike. Building for boats is the ultimate challenge. As noted earlier, everything needs to be strong, light, stowable and hopefully serve six additional functions in addition to that originally envisioned.
I've spent many years on sailboats and find that the most useful table is one that folds up against a forward bulkhead (English translation: "front wall"). Such tables usually have an integrated leg set that folds down when the table is in the raised position and pivots down when the table is lowered for use.
The other option is a table that rests on one or two aluminum posts that fit snugly into fittings on the cabin sole (the "floor) and bottom of the table. If the posts are removed, the table rests on a wood lip that, when covered with cushions, becomes an expanded berth ("bed"). The latter is the most flexible, serving both as table and berth, but also creates the problem of stowing the metal posts or the cushions, depending on which function is being served.
Someone with your talents could probably have fun with the first option, focusing on making the table adjustable in size and possibly height. Next time you're at the bok store flip through some boating magazines and books and you'll see lots of options.
Wooden Boat Magazine often has clever ideas... see Williams, Kendall, author and illustrator:/"Tables: Strong and Stowable," 105:58 for one such article.
Have fun and let me know if I can offer further assistance.
Lofton
Lofton...
plenty food for thought there... I've ordered the back issue from wooden boat. Should make for interesting reading... Thanks for taking the time Sir...Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Mike
My last boat was a 43' power boat, with a table in the cuddy similar to what your friend has. It was a larger table that sat 6. When you lowered it, it doubled as a double bed. It did have 2 pedestals for support. You're asking for trouble trying to support that much weight with one aluminum or stainless pedestal. You would have to add supports on the underside of the table,which are going to make it uncomfortable to sit at. (Knee knockers, if you know what I mean.) Mine was about 40 inches wide and 72 inches long. It would certainly help to know the dimensions of your project.
Jeff
50ft sail boat.. Dang that is almost a Ship!
I built a 'sort' of ship once..
20 or 22 foot I forget... Has a flat head Ford in it.. It still floats.. AMAZING!..
That was back in 1965 or so.. I forget.. Just out of the Army and I needed something to do when the wife wasen't making me do something else..
I think I got the plans from some MAG that was popular then.. All straight grained Sticka Spruce and WHITE OAK..
Well, I fiberglassed the outside of the 'double hull'.. As I remember I got this foam stuff from SEARS or the like that would help it float.. Two little cans... I read the directions.. I did not believe that those little cans would fill the double hull..
I WAS VERY WRONG.. I had foam that filled the shop I was workin' in!
Edited 5/31/2005 1:11 pm ET by Will George
My one attempt at boat building was wayyyyy back in the days when God was a boy... made a 2ft MTB replica. Maiden voyage was on the local boat pond. She took to the water like a gut-shot duck, struggling to get up onto the plane before the engine cut.. As the speed scrubbed off she got lower and lower in the water, listing to port, settling by the bow until, with a pathetic couple of bubbles, she slipped under. Not even so much as a slick to mark the spot.
I stood slack-jawed on the bank, weeks of work... gone... said a few quiet words, rooled up the legs of my jeans and waded in to fetch her. Sad day....Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
I stood slack-jawed on the bank, weeks of work... gone... said a few quiet words, rooled up the legs of my jeans and waded in to fetch her. Sad day....
MIKE I UNDERSTAND.. I saw these plans for a HydorPlane in the same book from one sheet of plywood... I made it! I lost my best motor and I was on what was left of it...
Never sure how come I did not die then!
EDIT::: wayyyyy back in the days when God was a boy...
I asked GOD to make Women nice and he said in the 50's they will make Levies and white shirts!
Edited 5/31/2005 1:54 pm ET by Will George
Good design designates size requirements for seating, whether on a ship or not. For example, 20" w seats are considered snug or tight, 22" is better, and 24" is most comfortable.
Sorry but I can't help with other considerations, not having built for a boat.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled