Replies

1. 
   Rich14 | Apr 12, 2008 10:10pm | #1

   Now, THAT'S an interesting question.

   White glue and yellow carpenter's glue such as Titebond never become completely hard. They "solidify" to a highly viscous, somewhat rubbery mass that might be expected to dampen vibrations somewhat. But with the very thin glue line that proper clamping should produce, it's hard to imagine that the amount of acoustic damping could be significant.

   Hot hide glue and polyurethane glues harden to a very hard, brittle condition, which may be desirable in your application.

   Maybe you better make two projects, using different glues in each and let us know the result!

   Rich

2. 
   Henley | Apr 13, 2008 01:33am | #2

   That is an interesting question.
   I say try the hide glue, it's not difficult and much more interesting.

   Also, the depth of the cone is critical if your going to "tune"
   the board. Do you have plans ?

1. 
   andyfew322 | Apr 13, 2008 02:15am | #3

   My sister's bf will tell me when I'm ready to do it 

   Look ma, no jigs!!!

3. 
   saschafer | Apr 13, 2008 06:17am | #4

   Another choice for a high-rigidity glue is plastic resin glue (e.g., Unibond). However, unless you plan to have really sloppy glue joints, I doubt that you'd be able to tell the difference between a rigid glue and a more flexible glue like Titebond.

   -Steve

    

4. 
   harrycu | Apr 13, 2008 06:23am | #5

   I remember seeing old men sitting around playing that game when I was in Korea. It usually wound up in a shouting match between the players along with some obscene gestures. :^)

   Harry

   Following the path of least resistance makes rivers and men crooked.

5. 
   observer | Apr 13, 2008 08:01am | #6

   I'm curious what acoustics have to do with the board or the game?

1. 
   Henley | Apr 13, 2008 04:06pm | #7

   I'm a chess player not Go but I can tell you
   the weight of the pieces, the size of the board, and
   the sound your piece makes when you place (with authority)
   make all the difference in the world.

1. 
   andyfew322 | Apr 15, 2008 03:54am | #8

   so, it would seem hide glue is the best? I would like some more opinions please 

   Look ma, no jigs!!!

6. 
   Tinkerer3 | Apr 15, 2008 04:09am | #9

   The fact that you explained the piece would indicate that you might consider suggestions from novices.  I have a nephew that married a girl who is a violin maker.  She once told me that any kind of refinishing on a violin usually ruins it.  I surmise that any alternative gluing could have the same effect.  A violin is a very sensitive sound system.  Maybe your go board is not that sensitive.  If I were very concerned about this question, I would look up a violin maker.  You should get loads of information.

1. 
   Rich14 | Apr 15, 2008 12:49pm | #11

   "any kind of refinishing on a violin usually ruins it. "That is simply untrue. Anything done poorly will give poor results. But surprisingly, the finish on strung instruments has little effect on their sound quality, unless grossly mis-applied. Thin is better than thick, but almost any finish is better than none at all in sealing and stabilizing the wood.I doubt the glue used in this project will affect the sound quality, but poor gluing techniques and orientation of wood grain probably will.Rich

1. 
   Tinkerer3 | Apr 16, 2008 04:42am | #13

   I'm going to wash my hands of this one.  I was just quoting her.  But I will say she works on some pretty expensive violins and is considered pretty high class. It may be that she was talking about some pretty amateur finishers too or I misunderstanded her.

   Edited 4/15/2008 9:45 pm ET by Tinkerer3

7. 
   JamesS | Apr 15, 2008 08:37am | #10

      Andy....... Try Googling "Go Boards". Looks like they are all solid wood, kaya, bamboo, or Tibetwood????

   James

   
   

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   Edited 4/15/2008 1:38 am ET by JamesS

8. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 15, 2008 01:51pm | #12

   Andy, FWIW, luthiers often use "Original" Titebond (as opposed to TBII, etc.) in their work. One reason is that it doesn't "creep" as much as the other flavors, and it's pretty easy to undo with heat. They primarily use hide glue when joining tops though, because you can make what is called a "rubbed joint" with hide glue -- you apply the glue, put the pieces together and rub them back and forth until they draw up tight without clamping. One reason this is done is that it's hard to properly clamp the thin pieces of, say, a guitar top or back. I have never heard any luthier dis Titebond due to a perception of poor acoustic properties.

   I suspect either choice would work for you -- hey, it ain't a Stradivarius! Hide glue is neat stuff, but it does require a bit of "overhead" since you need a warming pot and you have to make it fresh often (it doesn't keep well). With modern adhesives being so good and so convenient, few woodworkers have the incentive or inclination to keep a stinky pot of hide glue in the shop.

   As with pretty much anything involving woodworking, there is more than one path you may choose to follow.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

   EDIT: "Hide glue" is NOT the stuff you buy already in a bottle in the hardware store ("liquid hide glue") -- it's made by heating dry glue with water in a glue pot or double boiler. Check this out: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Data/Materials/hideglue.html  (Frank Ford is a respected guitar luthier and he knows what he's talking about. It's good advice if you want to explore the mysteries of hide glue.

   ANOTHER EDIT: Oh, and you might wanna have a look around his site -- he has a new "shop tips" section that may give you a few ideas, and lots of just plain interesting stuff.

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   Edited 4/15/2008 6:57 am ET by MikeHennessy

   
   

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   Edited 4/15/2008 7:09 am ET by MikeHennessy