Well, three years and the belts on the big Jet are starting to
rumble…Has anyone tried the multilink poly belts (red) I had great
satisfaction on a contractor saw and my jointer. Has anyone
tried this on the three belt setup of the Delta, Powermatic or Jet?
thx
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Replies
A (matched set) of PREMIUM--notched V belts will last for many many years. (Goodyear & many ofhers)
Standard V belts are not the way to go.
Myself---I would only use link belts on a single drive-never a multiple drive & then--only if some dissassembly was required to mount it.
woody/LUTHER
For what it is worth.. NOT saws but in other machines..Matched belts ARE the ONLY WAY TO GO!
Will someone please enlighten me as to why link belts are supposedly better then v-belts? Seems like a lot of hype to me.
Steve
I like them because they are red, my favorite color. Since they are expensive they have to be good, right?
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
LOL, I thought so!
Steve
I've only used them for emergency repairs on stationary equipment, so I can't speak first-hand, but they reportedly don't hold a "set" after long periods of non-use, and therefore don't cause as much vibration as standard belts.
I just run my Unisaw OEM belts sloppy-loose, and it runs as smooth as the motor allows (most of the vibration is from the motor itself - they just don't balance 'em like they used to). With three belts, I don't get slippage, and the cost is zippo.Be seeing you...
I don't get the reason they would cause less vibration I guess. They are made of similar substances as a v-belt, except they don't have as much contact area to the pulley. Could the reason they are percieved to decrease vibration be that they slip and distort enough to absorb the shock of vibration or load? That would eat a bunch of power too I'd think.
I guess they bother me. I run my Jet cabinet saw like you do. I guess the best way to avoid a set in the belts would be to use your tools more? Have a good day,
Steve
I'm thinking that the reason link belts cause less vibration is the same reason that the newer table saw blades have the slots cut in them -- it dissipates the vibration via the individual slots (the individual links). Each link is about 1 1/2" long with 2 slots and a tab. Less continuous material to pass "noise" along the line. I've only used one link belt, tensioned by gravity, on an old Sears Dunlap lathe, and I've noticed smoother, quieter running without loss of power.
Can't comment on table saws, though, my Delta contractor saw is an older model with a belt inside the motor housing.
Not trying to convince you, just a .02 thought.
Roy
X-cog belts are a better choice, cheaper and good on small diameter sheaves. Don't waste the money on matchecd belts either. I've been professionally working on machines for 20 years and always recommended x-cog belts. http://www.mcmaster.com
Link belts are good for motors that are suspended by gravity as regular belts tend to have a memory and stay oval creating a bounce that results in a loss of power on the up bounce. Not a problem with sheaves that are fixed in place. Also one belt will work fine on a unisaw. If you look at modern panels saws with 7 hp and up they only use one belt. The three belt thing goes way back to the days of overbuilding and Delta knows if they get rid of it folks will be up in arms fearing the cheapening of the saw. PM went from three belts to two belts a number of years ago.
Do you have a particular # or type for what you are using??
thx
http://www.mcmaster.com
Go to page 941 x-cog belts
super thx a lot!!!!duster1
I have PowerTwist link belts on my Unisaw and they are worth their weight in gold. After installation the performance of my saw has never been better. Link belts work well because the links stop vibration that would be transmitted by sold rubber belts. I also have 2 link belts installed on my Grizzly jointer and 1 on my drill press.
Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .
I use three link belts on my Grizzly. They work great and do reduce noise and vibration. I got mine from McMaster-Carr; be careful, they have different types of link belts, some of which require a special tool to part and join links.
Duster, Are you absolutely sure of your diagnosis? This sounds a bit premature for belts to me, unless they were loose and you seize the blade while the motor keeps running. A more likely cause for the roar would be a loose set screw in the arbor or motor pulley. If you disconnect the power to the saw, you can reach down and grasp the motor pulley with one hand, then rotate the arbor shaft back and forth. Also try to slide the pulley along its shaft. If you get any play, the pulley may be eating the arbor.
A bad bearing is good for a roar also. If you have the top off, and have let it run for a while, feeling for heat might lead you to the problem.
You are right Keith...belts don't rumble and three years is still brand new for belts in my experience. It's a fairly common thing for the set setscrew on the arbor pulley to loosen up and rumble. By the time it's rumbling means the damage is done and a new pulley and arbor will be in order. Rarely have I seen it to be the motor pulley.
Edited 8/31/2005 9:38 am ET by RickL
Thanks to all for the leads and suggestions. The rest of the story is:
upper and lower pulleys are tight and aligned as are set screws.
arbor and bearings are sound, as is tension, and all other parts.
motor mounts secure; the belts seem to take more of a "set" when the saw
has not been run for awhile. They are "elephant brand" and do have some
cracks in the v walls.
Thanks again for all the input.
duster1
I've replaced the belts on my Unisaw with link belts and also noticed less vibration (it was definately the old belts, which had a lot of set). I also think that Link Belts rob a little power. After shutting of the saw there was a noticible difference in the coast time of the blade. It was slower with the link belts.
mike
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