Replies

1. 
   DougF | Feb 03, 2006 06:33pm | #1

   If the boards are flat and little stock requires removal, the drum sander.  If the stock is flat with a lot of waste to be removed, the planer then the drum sander depending on how good a job your planner does.  If the stock is twisted you can use a sled (shim the board so the planer removes the twist) and then plane the other side.  If the board is bowed, unless the wood is dense or thick, the planer and the drum sander will probably flatten the wood as it passes under the rollers and blade/drum and then emerge still bowed.  You can try the jointer to take the majority of the bow out by taking cuts from opposite ends but how successful you will be depends how you guide the wood through and grain direction.  Although not listed as one of your options, hand planes or a router sled will also work.  Lastly, rip the board, joint the faces and re-glue. 

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 03, 2006 07:20pm | #2

   The first thing I would do is take a good look at the board and the annual growth rings on the end. If the board has been sliced right out of the center of the log, chances are that it will belly. It probably is already bellied if that is the case. With this type of lumber you may be better to rip.

   If the board is fairly flat and you don't expect problems with cupping, then leave it in one piece. Try to see if you can cut it to get lengths that suit your project, are still sensible to mill and lay flat on the workbench. You may be able to plane the pieces without flattening one of the faces on the jointer. Obviously, you don't want to try to plane 6" long pieces but 24" would be OK. If these smaller lengths are still rocking on the bench, you may be able to take a couple of shots off the high spots with a hand plane.

   After the board is planed, I'd use the jointer to straighten the edge and then rip it to the size you need.

   When I worked in a large shop with 24" planers, 16" jointers, wide belt sanders, gang rip saws, etc. We could glue up panels in the rough and mill them afterwards. With small shop equipment, I mill the stock to the size I want, glue it up, using cauls to hold the boards flat and in line. All that is needed is removing any squeeze out and some light sanding. The drum sander could be used for this last step but I would not try to use it as an abrasive planer, more as a finish sander.

   A little thought when selecting your lumber, looking to see if the boards are relatively straight and flat, will eliminate the need for a wide jointer. They are nice to have but very expensive for a small shop. I've learned how to live without one, it's not that hard.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match