STL201: Friends Don’t Let Friends Go Metric
Mike and Ben discuss first handplane purchases, tool chest construction, calipers, sourcing riftsawn oak, and English-style tablesaw fences. And Mike tries to talk Ben out of switching to metric.
This episode is brought to you by Maverick Abrasives.
I’ve been woodworking for several years, but I am just now beginning to incorporate hand tools in my work. I mainly use reclaimed antique long-leaf pine, running it through my jointer and planer, then I use a belt sander and random orbital sander to get to a finish surface. I’d like to eliminate some of the sanding and use a handplane. Can I go from the planer straight to a smoothing plane, or should I use something larger first like the 7 or 8? I don’t currently own any hand planes so any advice on what to buy would help.
I would like to build Mike’s ‘famous’ hanging tool chest, but with frame and panel construction. I think it’s awesome as is, but frame and panel construction with plywood panels seems to be more in my budget. How can I securely join the panels together for such a heavy piece in my small, mostly hand tool shop?
Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool
Ben – Digital calipers
Mike – His new smaller, essential toolchest
I love the look of Chris Gochnour’s sideboard in FWW #277, have added it to the must-build list. I wondered if you had any tips for sourcing rift-sawn white oak. Is it just a matter of getting the widest possible flat sawn boards and gluing the outer portions into a panel? Would the rip-and-flip method on a thicker board be realistic for a piece this size?
When I’m ripping on my tablesaw I use an English style fence – which is nothing more than an auxiliary board that I mount on my fence with t-bolts and ends at the center of the blade. Doing this virtually eliminates kick-back, because after your workpiece is cut, it can not be pinched between the fence and the back of the blade.
Most of my woodworking buddies have never heard of this, and I have never seen it in photos within articles in Fine Woodworking. This seems to me to be something that would be standard in most shops. Is there some reason that most woodworkers in North America don’t use this system? Is there a loss of accuracy, or a safety issue that I’m not aware of? If so, I’d like to know so I can stop doing it, if not then I’d like to hear your guesses as to why this isn’t more widely used.
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