10-in. Cabinet Saw 36-L31X - Fine Woodworking Tool Review
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10-in. Cabinet Saw 36-L31X

Delta - 10-in. Cabinet Saw 36-L31X

The Delta has plenty of power and a solid rip fence, but its arbor runout was the highest in the group.

$1,900 (As of 6/1/2006)

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Editor's Review: Tool Test: 10-in. Cabinet Saws

by Roland Johnson

review date: June 1, 2006

The author looked at 13 popular 3-hp, 220v 10-in. cabinet saws. In addition to evaluating the saws for power and safety, he also tested for tabletop flatness, for runout at the arbor shaft and arbor flange, and for parallelism of the blade to the miter slot. He found that all the saws offered plenty of power, solid rip fences, smooth controls, and flat tabletops. The Delta 36-L31X was the only saw that came up short on the arbor-flange and arbor-shaft runout. In fact, its arbor runout was the highest in the group. It has a tiny arbor nut that's fussy to handle, and the switch is easy to shut off accidentally. An extension table and legs are included.

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Editor Test Results:

Table Flatness Satisfactory
Parallel Test Needed adjustment at 45°
Arbor Runout Highest of the models tested
Noise Level N/A

Manufacturer Specifications

Manufacturer Delta
Manufacturer's Web Site www.deltaportercable.com
Manufacturer's Phone Number 800-223-7278
Max Rip Capacity To Right: 50 in.; To Left: 12 in.
Dust Collection 4-in. Connector
Fence 50-in. Unifence with Adjustable Flip Stop
Horsepower 3 hp
Amps 12 amp
Volts 220v
Table Size 76 in. x 27 in. (with wing extensions)
Blade Size 10 in.
Blade Tilt Left

I purchased the saw 6 months ago and have been very satisfied with it. It has the power to cut larger thickness of wood with slowing down. I have completed several built in projects throughout the house with wonderful results. My neighbor has the grizzly saw and wishes he had bought the Delta. The noise lever compared to the Grizzly is far lower. If you want a good all around saw, take a close look at the Delta.

I own this saw and when I checked the arbor and arbor flange runout, they were both around 0.001. I'm not sure how FW tested their machines, but when you are talking about runout a single test on a single machine does not make for a concise consensus of that machine. I had a general 10" that I got a great deal on because the arbor flange runout was excessive. It turns out that there was an irregularity in the flange the size of a small grain of sand. I touched the flange with a knife file and tripled my money and bought this saw. I do not tread lightly when it comes to cabinet saws. It defines the woodworker by the quality of his or her work. I expect a table saw to take an #### kicking every single day and keep it's mechanically tight tolerances. I've owned every major saw brand at one time or another and this saw is a keeper

Love the saw.The only problem I am always hitting the off switch but I have only had the it for a month I guess I will learn it is there.

I bought my Unisaw last year [2006] to replace a direct-drive Sears 10" saw that I had worked with for 15 years. I put off buying a real cabinet saw WAY too long.... 3HP motor, versus 1 HP on the old Craftsman saw. I bought the 52" Bies. Fence version. The only thing I can truly knock is the horrible stock blade cover. It would barely stay in the upright position, so I used a small spring clamp to keep it up and not slamming downward when I least expected. To stop all of this and get dust collection on top of the blade as well, I bought an HTC overarm/overhead blade guard system this spring. Mine is the large 10A model from Brett/HTC. This added easy dust pick-up right at the blade on top, true hand/body protection around the blade without losing sight of the cuts I'm making. Best accessory I've bought for the saw so far. I have the mobile base from Delta that was offered with the saw purchase. I highly recommend one if you need to move your saw around for any reason. Make your own if you don't want to spend the cash for one. Run-out on the arbor was lower than what Fine Woodworking found during their tests. I also didn't have to align the table with the blade, and the miter slots are ok too. Guess I got lucky with a well made machine. The not-so easy to assembly side table was a bit of a pain to get aligned with the saw's table top. I advise measuring,leveling, and rechecking before you drill and mount the thing. I did discover that my saw came with a slightly warped side table from Delta, but it hasn't affected the quality of the work so far. And the cast iron table of the saw is fine, just the wood/laminate side table is off a bit. I ended up making a shelf to span from the stock brackets [under the side table] at the right side of the saw over to the 2 table legs. This shelf gives you somewhere to put your miter jigs, tenon jigs, etc. With the stock rolling base, you probably don't have as much room under the side table for a full cabinet like others have built for their Unisaws. It's the lifting handle that's right in the middle of the base that you'd have to work around. I bent the stock arbor nut wrenches in my work vise to give them a bit of offset while loosening or tightening the arbor nut on the saw. Keeps your hands out of the way of the blade. All in all, I really like my Unisaw and plan to keep it for a long time. Hope this helps someone with their decision.

I have found my saw to be very accurate, easy to adjust, settings stay in place and clean to operate. I have assembled jigs for my say and I make my own 0 tolerance throat plates. All-in-all I find this to be a excellent table saw.

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