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I used ( 2 ) 1 1/4"pine stair treads from Lowes. Planed them to 1"+ thickness. They offer a strong, less flexible base to use as the new "table". I left the base board as wide as I could. The adjustable base is ripped to 8".
I needed away to put a slight bevel on a wide board to taper from 3/4″ thickness to 1/4″ or anywhere between. I came up with this solution for about $30. I wanted to be able to adjust the angle for various board widths and tapers.
It works great. My first Jig and I love it!
For narrower boards, use a “filler” against the sloped “fence” so your planer does not tear into the upper corner of your sloped base.
You will find that the combination of a board at an angle butts into the planer structure and sets your maximum cut depth for each pass.
The 48" stair treads provide additional table length. By clamping them along the edge of the existing table, you align perpendicular to the planer blades.
I used a piece of straight scrap from a previous project and a straight edge to set the lip on the adjustable base. as you feed your boards through they are naturally pushed against this "stop". Screw and glue every 6".
The sloped base is anchored to the main base with hinges every 8". A continuous piano hinge would be the best in theory to prevent any sag.
I used another quality scrap strip from a previous project as a stop to set the angle. I have a series of stops that I can quickly screw into place to set 7, 8, 9, 10 degree slopes.
I could not come up with away to have a dial-in system with a protractor. I guess that is for the next version.
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