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with a sample corner clamped in place
i’ve been struggling to find the ‘best’ way to glue up mitered frames for, oh, 30 years or so. i think we’ve finally got it … the pictures below show the basics of the concept. it’s quick to build, easy to use and takes up minimal time and materials … all the things a good jig should be … there are detailied, step by step instructions for building it and larger photos on my dorset custom furniture blog.
cad drawing ... you can make it any size you think will work for you from tiny to giant ... i think the concept will work for 6 and 8 sided frames also ... it's accuracy depends on the accuracy of the uncut blank you construct to start ...
it worked perfectly for these two 39 x 60 mitered frames ... accuracy though is only as good as your length and angle cuts ... at least it's easy to see how you're doing before you add the glue ...
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I agree with EngrMike, I lowered the outside corners to allow for squeeze-out after gluing a couple of frames down to the jig - due to my sloppy gluing habits. Haven't had a problem since. I have also used clamping dogs along with this jig - maybe a little over-kill but it is only one more clamp and my miters have never looked better.
Excellent!! Why didn't I see this blog last week?! As said before, The simplest solutions...
Yep, agree, this jig is so basic good, you can't go better than this, ... super thanks
Great Jig! I hate to be a party pooper, but I would disagree with EngrMike. I wouldn't change a thing. Glue will take the path of least resistance. I don't see a need to relive the edge. If the frame is tight up against the block, there wont be much squeeze out. Just my thought. I'm a far cry from an expert.
Thanks for sharing all of your professional experience with us!
The jig will be improved if the outside corner of the pieces you clamp the frame to are relieved so there is room for squeezed out glue.
What clamps to have and why you should have them
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