woodygrandad

There are many ways to do this. I made a jig for my 12 inch dewalt miter saw. This saw is not the kind that slides, I found that it is much more accurate than the sliding type. The jig is a simple assembly ,I used two pieces of 5 qtr poplar about 4 inches wide.I joined them at 90 degrees and set the saw at 45 and cut down into the jig but not all the way thru. I shut the saw off and measured the space under the motor housing. I then removed the jig from the saw and drill a hole for a dowel. Then I cut the dowel to stop the saw from going all the way throw the jig. reinstal the gig carefully so that the saw does not re-cut the kerf and you end up with a zero clearance cut and the cut off piece does not fly off. When you want to cut just put the mark on the edge oft he saw kerf of the jig and you will get a nice smooth accurate cut every time. I also added a piece off 2 inch by 2 inch poplar that I wrapped with some fine sandpaper ,that I use to keep the molding from sliding on the jig. Make the jig long enough to be able to clamp it in place with the clamp that comes with the saw.

very nice work. The foam and sewing will probably give you sticker shock but will be well worth the trouble and expense. As for the comment about" buying from the furniture store" by cherry squirrel your work can not be duplicated unless you have a sofa custom made. Lets not be intimidated there is a first time for every experience. Enjoy and be proud of the work you do you have an original.

Had a similar incident but in my case I was doing dovetails with a Leigh Jig and when I had completed a cut I shut the router off and placed it on its side on the work bench behind the jig. I then reached for the work piece on the jig and my hand went in front of the router, remember it was on its side and the thing was still spinning. After much degrading reference to my intelligence I had my wife take me to the ER. 12 stitches and about a month later I am fine except for a very interesting scar. The answer for this is to make a simple devise to hold the router just drill a hole in a piece of 2 by 6 big enough so that the router will sit on it and the bit will be safely in the hole . You live and learn.

The neatest shop I have seen in a long time. I would bet he spent quite a bit of time cleaning before the pictures where taken. Very nice shop!

My My what a nice job ,you should take a bow!

Sorry I missed a point in my comments earlier. The single most important item is the splitter or riving knife. Even if you insist on removing the guard at least use the splitter or better yet a riving knife.

I also thought about the ring. But the most glaring problem was, where was the guard? I have been woodworking for about 39 years and yes I still have all my fingers. The one consistent thing I have seen when I have visited both commercial shops and private shops is that almost everyone removes the guard. The excuse is that you cannot see the cut. Frankly if you have a good fence and your saw is aligned correctly the cut will be as you set it up to be. I have a delta contractors saw with the unisaw fence once I set up the saw I always set an additional 1 thirty second over size and take it to the jointer which I always keep at this setting and I have a perfect cut. The cover is always on the saw unless of course you are doing a cut like a cross cut or one that is not all the way thru the work-piece such as a dado cut. I made my own blade guard from a floor sweep that came with a shop vac. The guard is mounted on a trapezoid suspended from the ceiling above the saw the combination of this hooked up to a shop vac and the shop dust collector keeps me from being hit in the face with saw dust not to mention keeping my hands away from the blade. By the way I sent pictures of this to methods of work a few years ago but hey have not published them.