usafchief

james gier, payson, AZ, US
member


Woodworker and clockmaker for over 40 years.... Retired USAF with 25 1/2 years service

Gender: Male

Birthday: 08/30/1934



Recent comments


Re: Appeals court upholds Osorio tablesaw verdict: Feds consider landmark safety standard

Some place in here, I posted a comment before, but my ire still hasn't returned to reasonable control.........The federal government has constantly and consistently tried to protect IDIOTS from themselves through legislation. If they would quit trying to protect the idiots of this country-, perhaps attrition could solve a big part of the problem...... ASA, why don't you slam that wiener into the blade, instead of sneaking up on it, you know like a kick back might induce.. I have learned one thing about Fine Wood Working Editors since 1975 (Original subscription), with the exception of Jim Richie, and that is, they have a very high opinion of their opinion........ Why someone, or some magazine that thinks that hand tools are the mark of the Craftsman and the power tool is the mark of a lesser skilled, would bother with Saw Stop is beyond me. Unless it is to degrade those of us that lived through the 20th and into the 21st century. My Craftsman 10" that I bought new in 1972 still has its guard, facsimile riving knife and anti-kick back pawls intact in the bottom of the custom cabinet..... Remember: there is no such thing as an accident in woodworking shop, but there is a whole shop full of stupidity lurking about. Would I like a new saw? Yes... Would I buy a SawStop?? Hell no, at 80 years old, I believe I have finally learned not to be stupid- at least while in the shop....

Re: Centering the Festool Domino on Imperial Based Materials

Every body seems to think that every thing from EUROPE is the greatest thing since American invented sliced bread. Euro hinges, Eurocar (GM) , wine , cheeses, etc...... If metric is so great and every thing is divisible by ten, why are there things measuring out in less than full mm... Left over tools and parts from my motorcycle days have many things that were less than any full numbered mm IE: tap and die for 6.4mm. Leave it to hell alone, go to Woodline Router bits and get what they call - "under and over size" bits to use the plywood that is out there. As with many things happening in this country today, I am glad I am 80.. Like the Scotsman says; "WE WON the war didn't we?"

Re: How to Make a Finger Chuck

Wrapping the clamp with something to soften the blow and reduce the damage??????? What did you do to balance that thing? Considering that the clamp knuckle is bulky and heavy, that has to be definitely a wobbler.... More info should have been given, as not all of us who enter here are experts. and some things presented here are not necessarily for the beginner to undertake..... Recommended max speed, etc.... Me, I like making my own tools, jigs and fixtures, but I would give plenty of consideration to buying a precision made compression chuck that would work both externally and internally

Re: Matt Kenney's Ultimate Jig

Interesting watching him take off his ear muffs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Re: Matt Kenney's Ultimate Jig

after reading comments before seeing this "JIG" do I really want to see it???????

Re: Router Accident is a Great Lesson in Climb Cutting

hold downs, hold ins, push blocks and any other device would not prevent what happened here. Thankfully no one was hurt. Many years ago, with the listed devices being used, along with making the same mistake, I lost the best router I ever owned-( an old Craftsman with the rack and pinion adjustment-) a piece of waste got jammed between the stock and the bit. Before I could pull the plug, I smoked the router....... Climb cutting has a place, but, never with the stock between the bit and the fence

Re: Ingenious foot-powered lathe

BTW, my son's lathe had nothing of steel or iron that could be made of wood

Re: Ingenious foot-powered lathe

About 30 years ago, my son built his own foot powered lathe, and the flywheel used to even out power strokes was made of concrete, and believe the bearings were made from either iron wood or lignum vitae. He turned some fantastic stuff on his "machine"......

Re: Magnetic Assisted Geometry Furniture

leave it to Fine Woodworking to be impressed by something "artistic" and foreign......No tools needed is almost as good hand cut whatever..............

Re: Flatten Wide Boards without a Big Jointer

opa2125- keaka: Step 1. lay your board on a flat surface. Step 2. Measure from flat surface to the highest corner of the board and add approx. 1/16" to measurement- this will be the thickness of your sacrificial rails. Step 3. without moving board out of position, glue and clamp rails to board. top and bottom surfaces of rails are now in the same plane and parallel to each other. Step 4. I normally run one side through until I have planed one surface of the rails and board flat, then turn the board over and run it through the planer to surface the uneven side. A word of caution here- step 4 will determine the final thickness of the board, and will generally result in a thinner board than you wanted. Recommended length of board- approximately 48", and the rails should extend about 3" beyond each end of the board.. Rails are removed by ripping on the tablesaw, just nicking the glue line giving you maximum width of your board and parallel edges. Oh Oh, forgot to mention- you need to joint at least one edge on the jointer, or "straight line saw" one edge and then rip the other to provide a flat edge for the glue to adhere to..

For fpratt: this is practical for short pieces particularly in that you make the rails longer is all, this allows to you to plane pieces less than 1 sq." using rails about 12" long........

Re: Flatten Wide Boards without a Big Jointer

WHOA, Been a woodworker for almost 50 years, 20 of that without a jointer or a thickness planer!!!!!!!!! How in HEdouble L does anyone feed a cupped and twisted 12" board across a set 3 knives spinning at about 3,000 rpm, (giving you approx. 9,000 strikes on that board every minute) I have a 50 year old Delta 6" jointer that I rescued from a junkyard 30 years ago. I use it to joint edges primarily. But have used it to flatten boards that are about 6 " wide, providing I have only 1 or 2 boards to do. Any more that and I glued sacrificial " rails on to provide a flat reference surface, leaving these rails about 3" longer on each end to eliminate snipe. Contrary to the article, I leave the rails on until both sides have been run thru the thickness planer and the board fully surfaced on both sides. If the board exceeds the capacity of my thickness planer, I split it and do the same thing. leaving it about 1/64 thicker than I want, so I can glue it back up and make a pass through the planer- without the rails...... This rail trick allows me to salvage wood that most woodworkers would turn their nose up at when looking at it.
Reading about the fascination with those monster wood working machines called "JOINTERS" tells me that none of you have seen or been involved with a jointer kickback!!!!!!!
I saw one where the cutter head tore a knot out and when the cussing quit and the bleeding stopped, we found that a 2" chunk of the in-feed table was missing and a part of the cutter head and knife was also gone. We picked up that 10" x 8' board 3 feet away..... By the way, this was an OLD Sidney and is now a 300# boat anchor.

I have a friend in Nebraska that provides me with exceptionally large walnut cut offs that are rough sawn, cupped, bowed and just about any other wood defect you can think of, and this the method I use to make clocks and furniture. He or a friend of his delivers it to me when they pass through Arizona.

Seems to me that some people are impressed by tool size, rather than practicality....

BTW, the guy was using 2 of those plastic push blocks, when the dust settled, all he had in his hands were the handles. When asked what he would have done had he had a smaller machine, he "Said cut the knot out by splitting the board".....

Re: You Can't Beat the Physics of Kickback

OK, don't any of you guys examine your stock before you begin to Rip????? Look at the end grain, if the board is cupped, it will have a tendency to pinch... Make the cut in 2 passes, lowering the blade to about half of the boards thickness and turning the board end for end. My saw is a 1970 Craftsman, and that MM splitter, anti kickback fingers and wobbly guard is still in the plastic bag it came in- hanging on my shop wall. I use my saw for more operations to where that thing has to be removed, that it is not practical to use. So the board pinches on the riving knife, requiring more effort on your part to push the stock through. I have found using a thin wooden wedge also keeps the cut open and requires no extra effort to rip. But, if it is a board loaded with stress, it may split before it finishes the last few inches of the cut...... I have never had a kick back that a riving knife would have prevented in the first place- how can it without those fingers to dig into the wood????? safety devices will generally lead to complacency.

There isn't and there never has been an accident in a wood working shop- before or since the invention of all the safety devices. Some one has always done something stupid- I lost 3/8 inch of my left thumb to my jointer by not using a push block in both hands.

I have hold downs and hold in fingers that I made 40 plus years ago that make my shop as safe as that HOT Dog eating sawstop

Re: Behold, the Speed Tenon

Okay forget the blade guard comments- they make no sense when cutting tenons, - how would you use it when using a tenoning jig?
I have used this method when only having to make a few tenons for over 50 years. Go find yourself one of the OLD full kerf (1/8 plus thick) blades, not one of the "thin kerf" blades. I use a board clamped to the fence that covers the blade before and after cutting check cuts. Typically have a clearance of the thickness of a business card between the stock and the "guard", reducing the worry about a spinning uncovered blade.... Of course this won't work when cutting haunched tenons. As to safety- The machines that we use are not Dangerous- until you walk into your shop and turn on the unit. What makes it dangerous is you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Regardless of where you read a method of work, if it scares you reading about it, don't be a damned fool and try it

Re: My brand new 100 year old jointer

Fine old tools from the "old days" are great. I have a 6" Delta with 60" bed that I rescued from a manufactured homes builder's junk yard that works beautifully. I rarely use it to flatten a board. I use my thickness planer and 2 pieces of sacrificial wood glued to the edges of the board I want to flatten. Lay the board on the bench and figure how much thicker the sacrificial pieces will have to be to allow enough passes to get a flat surface to use to get to final thickness. I generally have the sacrificial pieces long enough so that any snipe on either end is on these pieces rather than the stock.... I also find this method is one hell of a lot safer than trying to hold a wide board against the table and the fence as well as to try and overcome the natural inclination of the 3 knife cutter head spinning at about 3000 rpm to kick that board out from under my push blocks.... I too, have lost 3/8" off my left thumb to a hungry jointer using it as a planer.... Why use brute force to plane a board down to thickness, or to even flatten one, when there are all sizes of power fed planers?????????

Re: Nick Offerman gives handcrafters a home, and you can help

Beautiful video on the canoe. Having built several while stationed in Northern (FAR NORTH) Maine, it is a time consuming project. Couldn't get clear cedar like he had, so used spruce and put one coat of fiber glass on it...

Re: 3 questions with Phil Lowe

AH, the arrogance of the better than thou... Shades of the other arrogant wood "ARTISTS"- Krenoff- no place for a file or rasp in my shop.. Maloof- really aloof. I had word battles with him in the early '70s in the FWW magazine..... and Nakashima was another one. The most interesting thing about these "ARTISTS", other than their arrogance, is how they made the item... Any one remember the "hippopotamus" desk of years ago???????- gave a new meaning to ugly wood work, but methods the builder used were amazing, as were his tools..... No tool is to low to be in my shop- even a lowly reworked file becomes a glue scrapper to get rid of squeeze out...... At least 85% of FWW subscribers are every bit as good as Lowe thinks he is. But they have one woodworking fault, they were never taught the arrogance that MAJOR contributors to FWW seem to have. Perhaps, it is a prerequisite. I had been a FWW subscriber for about 25 years from their start and got tired of the attitude of the artsy stuff. I just started getting the magazine again- it hasn't changed much in 35 plus years. The tips/methods of work are sometimes worth the cost of the subscription.. IGNORE the arrogance and digest the techniques that they employ.

Re: Self-Centering Mortising Base for the Router

Like others have said- looks wobbly to me... If this is a jig that will get used once or twice a year and then gather dust it would be fine. If you can remember how to use it (the fault with some of my jigs that only get used once or twice). If you are going to be doing production
work, then consider Woodhaven's horizontal router table. My homemade one is over 40 years old and has been adapted to newer routers as the others died. If you are to use other thicknesses, you would have to have more jigs. I like jigs- I have some that are over 50 years old- so old that I have to go back and find my contributions to woodworking magazines so I know how to use them. I find that it is better to move the work than the tool.....

Re: What hand tools can't you live without?

I was going to stay out of this....... But.... Hand Router planes traveling to a job????? The chest looks beautiful!!!! It is not however a traveling chest. Chisels should have divided spaces so they will not move around in the drawer. After opening and closing the drawer,moving it in and out of the truck and the contents will not be as displayed... If you look at old time tool chests, you will find that chisels are always separated from each other whether in slots or a drawer......Please don't consider a magnetic sheet to hold the chisels in place- over time the chisels will become magnetized...... Your workmanship is beautiful. If you actually use it to travel to a job, recommend that you devise a way hold the drawers closed when the lid is closed..... Is that a lock let into the drawer(s)? I like the work bench.....

Re: It's impossible to cheat at woodworking

Cadabra, your words from your first post : "So.........if the concept of 'results is all that matters' is in full force with you, fine! Get your furniture at IKEA."
Just don't equate those results with craftsmanship and skill." are loaded with your exact thoughts.

Prozac not needed....... a large bottle of TUMS perhaps.... Your insinuation that those of us that don't want to be a PURIST will only produce mediocre work and shouldn't build our own furniture because better quality is available at IKEA...... That is a pretty elitist statement and anybody can go back 30 plus years and read FWW articles and letters to the editor etc and find virtually carbon copies of your thoughts..........

Those of you that don't own all of the old hands only tools, don't sweat it, become an expert with your power tools, make your joints tight, and make your router cut dovetails fit perfectly... Your grand daughter won't give a damn that her blanket chest wasn't made with 18th century tools.

Re: It's impossible to cheat at woodworking

Cadabra, You know, you sound like the arrogant artists in most guilds..... One here in my town considers china painting as CRAFTER work, not art.....Yet when the crafter put the same design on canvas, she was an ARTIST.... The same applies to you and your snubbing nose... The woodworker that learns to use all of the tools at his disposal, whether powered or not, is as much of a craftsman as you think you are...... I can bet that were you to have to dig a ditch 100 ft long, 10" wide and 18" deep, you damn well wouldn't use a shovel,spade, pickax or a hoe...... Hell, no, you would go rent a DitchWitch... Yet these tools were once considered to be tools of a "crafsman"...... I have examined FINE WOOD items made using only hand tools and I found the following: scribe marks from a marking tool, torn wood from a dull chisel, miscut dovetails- both pins and tails, and scraper marks.... But it had a modern day famous(?) name on it....The person that learns to use all of his tools, including jigs, and produces a great looking piece is a craftsman..... As a suggestion, perhaps you should follow the advice given me by my Dad 65 years ago- never steal, borrow or buy, axes hoes rakes, shovels, wheelbarrows, etc.. When I asked why, he said "they are the working tools of the ignorant".. Now I am not implying that because you use handmade chisels, wooden smoothing,jointing and jack planes, own 2 1860 era Disston handsaws, all your moldings are made with old wooden Stanley molding planes, your nails are square cut, you hunt (with a club) your own rabbits to make your special "handcrafted glue", you gather walnuts off the ground to use the hulls to make your own stain, travel to Thailand to harvest your own resin from the lac bug and distill your own alcohol to make your own shellac, and perhaps skin and animal to get the finest bristles to make your own brushes...... Failure to do or use any of the above REMOVES you from the category "best-of the best woodworker". Your attitude is a crock of crap......After the first 30 years Of Fine Woodworking Magazine, I found your attitude had permeated it so badly that I dropped it... An example was from Krenoff- (a snob) there is no place in a woodshop for file... A Craftsman that masters all of his tools, REGARDLESS of what they are is a CRAFTSMAN.... So,Cadabra, don't bang your head while looking down your nose at the rest of us.......

Re: Shop Talk Live 17: Behind-the-Scenes at Lee Valley Tools

berferdt writes: The sound? The sound of both revolution and evolution being stopped cold.
The revolution of a blade is stopped so the Darwin's evolutionary process can be subverted; someone gets to continue doing stupid things without consequence.
Pity goes to the blade!
The question raised among my peers is; why the preocupation in Fine Woodworking with the saw-stop?
As a collection of folks with all ten digits each, this overwhelming support of a feature proven to be uneeded by professionals must be driven by amatures - both outside and within the magazine staff. Or is it simply the easiest and most lucrative source of advertising?
Posted: 10:32 pm on October 14th

concur....................................

Re: Tablesaw Safety Around the Clock

this was/is my question.."How does this safety feature work when using a molding head cutter?? Or a full set of carbide toothed dado cutters? Would the trunnions and other pivoting points survive the sudden G load of bringing more than 1 1/2 lbs of spinning weight to a sudden stop?"

Going to SS website, I find that it will handle an 8" dado set, but you have to use a different cartridge.... No mention of a molding head cutter though.... One of the other postings on this subject matter asked the question of how many such stops could this machine survive, no answer was provided... Any idea?????

Re: Tablesaw Safety Around the Clock


I'm sorry you're so angry about so many things, usafchief. You must have had a tough life. Not angry about anything at all, or anyone, including you, baudi.... I just don't see something that can be affected by several variables such as damp sawdust collecting on either side of the tabletop,damp wood,rust etc as being a safety feature that can be relied upon.... My shop, in the summertime is cooled by an evaporative cooler that will raise the humidity level to around 40-50%, even higher when our monsoon season sets in... So, no doubt would have to have a means of measuring the moisture content of the wood, primarily within the first 1/16th to ensure that my wood was within the parameters of the device.... Of course, I could shut it off, but then my safety feature is gone isn't it??

How does this safety feature work when using a molding head cutter?? Or a full set of carbide toothed dado cutters? Would the trunnions and other pivoting points survive the sudden G load of bringing more than 1 1/2 lbs of spinning weight to a sudden stop?

Please, leave the sarcasm for the political sites.......

Re: Tablesaw Safety Around the Clock

quote baudi:baudi writes: So, usafchief, are you saying that if a machine had existed that would have prevented the loss of part of your thumb, you wouldn't have wanted it? Are you saying that you were an idiot and deserved to have an accident?

Isn't it better if there are safety features on machines that help protect us from our all-to-human momentary lapses in attention or judgement?

Just trying to understand your point of view here.

Posted: 11:29 am on October 6th. I don't make a practice of being an idiot................ But in this case I was one.... The jointer guard was in place.. I was truing up a 4" wide board prior to running it through the planner.... It started to chatter with about 6 inches left....Instead of reaching about a foot for my special jointer push block, I laid my hand down on the board and continued to feed, it continued to chatter, my thumb vibrated off the end of the board getting kissed by the hungry jointer...The jointer guard was in place, the special push block was removed from its storage spot and setting within a foot of my hand....I didn't use it... Plain and simple, I committed an act of stupidity and in doing so, I guess that I had your definition of an "ACCIDENT"..... My point of view: all table saws for the past 50 years have come with at least 2 safety features; a blade guard and a riving knife, and some have a "Bump or Knee" switch.... I like perhaps 75% of us had removed both of these as they got in the way for some operations and were too much trouble to put back on.... About 25 years ago, I made a counterbalanced one that could be swung out of the way when dadoing or making molding and swung back for other operations. As for the guys who cut their Incra devices, was that an act of neglect (stupidity) for not making sure of where the blade was going to cut BEFORE you turned the switch on, or was it an accident...... It makes no difference what safety device is employed in any operation, if you don't have your head tuned to what you are doing, some one is going to get hurt, or precious material is going to get wasted.. Dependency on an expensive safety device will generate complacency and the other safety device will be removed for reasons I have stated...... BUT, I won't lose any digits because I have a 3200 dollar SawStop!!!!... If the inventor of this device was really interested in your safety, he would make the device available to other manufacturers with a licensing fee....... He is not, as evidenced by his efforts with Federal gov't......
My point of view is this: no "safety device" will ever be a satisfactory substitute for not using your brain..... My table saw is a 45 year old Craftsman bench saw (before they made contractors saws- a poor substitute)... Were I to have a choice between a PowerMatic or the SawStop, I would take the PowerMatic, even though it is probably made in China....
I still want to know how the SawStop would function if it hit a loose knot in oak or walnut?????? If 6061 aircraft aluminun can trip the mechanisim, who is to say that that loose knot won't wipe out a blade and a cartridge.... Still waiting for the first report of injury from someone reaching over the top or behind the blade on his SawStop and getting hurt because the age old blade guard has been discarded....BTW, today's auto brake system originated with aircrat- designed to prevent landing with the brakes on...The auto ABS is worthless on wet or icy pavement and you had better be ready to use the old fashioned system- if it was ever taught to you. The best and cheapest safety device to date is still between most people's ears- there is no substitute.....

Re: Tablesaw Safety Around the Clock

First off- WHY IS EVERYONE SO INTERESTED IN "IDIOTPROOFING" the idiot..... THERE IS NOT NOW AND THERE NEVER HAS BEEN SUCH A THING AS AN "ACCIDENT" IN A WOODWORKING SHOP......You get eaten by one of your tools, you did something STUPID !!!!!!!! None of your tools are dangerous........................Until you walk through the door..... Still safe aren't you????? Ah ah, don't touch that switch just yet....Not 'til you realize that the most dangerous part of those whirling noisy machines is not mounted on the machine, but on the end of your hand!!!!!!!!!!!
Oh, BTW, my thumb on my left hand is 3/8inch shorter after encountering a 3 knife jointer spinning about 2800 rpm... It went so fast and slick that I never felt it and didn't realize I was hurt til I saw the blood..... Doctor said it was the most beautiful woodworking "stupid stunt" wound she had ever seen...
This happened 25 years ago- I am 78 now, and wouldn't have a Sawstop if it was given to me. Tired of being protected from myself by over regulating my world... If Incra fences trigger it, how about a loose knot???? And I have problems with right tilting blades- another idiotic import from Europe- along with European cars...........

Re: Help Complete the Vision of George Nakashima

Concur with Tom, TuTu is not my idea of a representative for peace... At least not world wide

Re: Neckties and Tablesaws Just Don't Mix

Have to disagree with tafink concerning blade heighth- The higher the blade, the less distance each tooth will travel(be captive)in the wood, the less wood each tooth will have to cut....Also the motor doesn't have to work as hard.If you are using the blade guard, what difference does blade exposure really make????? All my sawdust making life, I always wanted a Power Matic saw, all my life I have had a Craftsman 10" bench saw, and for the last 20 years this has had a Biesmeyer fence. Would I invest in a SawStop, no,hell no...... No one has tested it with their finger, just a hot dog. Like in Delsey, There Is A Definite Difference. A more than 50 years a woodworker, with all my fingers yet- reason I quit doing things stupidily afterv seeing some one else loose a finger

Re: Neckties and Tablesaws Just Don't Mix

Not only the necktie,but where is the guard??? Also, it might be sporty for those rolled up shirt sleeves, but I was taught in school more than 60 years ago, button the cuff or rollm up the sleeves beyond the elbow....

Another fine example of legislation originating from the land of fruits and nuts. Can't anybody in this country EVER take responsibility for their own stupidity?

Re: Huge advances in woodworking technology

For more than 20 years my little Ryobi 10" served me fine.. I had 2 sets of spare knives, so I never had a dull set... About 4 years ago I felt the need for a wider capacity, so I bought a Rigid 13" which uses double edge throwaway blades.. I also keep 2 sets of spare blades which give me,at the least 5 changes... Draw back to both planers- number of screws that have to be loosened to change blades, so why would I buy a planer with 3 -5 times as many screws to loosen???? Granted- at no time (supposedly) is the full width of the blade in contact with the surface, but the samples I have seen have little ridges or scratches the length of the board, requiring far more sanding than I like to do.... Yes, I know that the machine is a "thickness planer", but I like a smooth surface thickness planer. Hence I would not part with any cash to own one of these.... Change does not always mean better......

Re: Blade brake inventor aims to compete with SawStop

All the safety features on any tool are fine, but 2 things every body seems to forget.....The operator is the greatest safety device in any shop.... The are no accidents in any wood working shop, only stupid mistakes.... Yes, my left thumb is 3/8 of an inch shorter due to failure to use a push stick. My blade guard is one that is suspended from an arm that allows the guard to swing out of the way when not used. It is counterweighted and uses a paralell arm system.(I believe I made this after seeing one in Fine Woodworking more than 30 years ago) This allows me to use molding head cutters, dado blades and make my own cove moldings on the table saw without having to remove a guard... There are even ways to work safely without a riving knife,which I have been doing for over 50 years...... Leave stupidity at the shop door..............

Re: Easy Tip for Tighter Mortise-and-Tenon Joints

Yes, it is for allowing the meeting of another member at right angles, such as table leg stretchers... A lot of precision fitting going on with that type of joinery.... It doesn't take much to follow this tip. BUT the mortise and the tenion have to be a perfect fit or this trick will not be worth the time......Takes a super sharp chisel to pare away that tiny bit- well worth the effort..........

Re: Router Injury Sparks Reflection on Safety

There are 3 positives in woodworking: Woodworkers will always have one mistake in any project (screwup), wood shrinks/swells, and last but not least; there is no such thing as an accident in a wood shop.. Some one did something stupid - yes I have a thumb that is 3/8 of an inch shorter than it use to be, from a jointer - never felt a thing til the shock set in....No power tool, battery or otherwise has any forgiveness built into it.... Be careful in the shop, it is a lot less painful.... Besides, bloodstains are hard to get out........



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