tugg_thomson

I’ve used a similar method for years. However, I hog out the face of the tenon before I moving across the blade. As for the safety issues, consider using a rubber backed push block similar to the ones used for jointer work when moving the piece laterally across the blade. Additionally, my miter has a sacrificial fence that is close to the plane of the blade minimizing twist. The fact is the technique is not appreciably more dangerous than cutting a cove on the table saw.

I’ve used a similar method for years. However, I hog out the face of the tenon before I moving across the blade. As for the safety issues, consider using a rubber backed push block similar to the ones used for jointer work when moving the piece laterally across the blade. Additionally, my miter has a sacrificial fence that is close to the plane of the blade minimizing twist. The fact is the technique is not appreciably more dangerous than cutting a cove on the table saw.

As an oh-by-the-way, everyone I know that is missing a digit lost it on a table saw.

The first machine in my shop was a RAS that I purchased new 30 years ago (my Dad had one). The first thing I built with it is the 8 foot bench it still lives in. I used it exclusively for years with great success. Five years later, a friend introduced me to the table saw and I saw the light (really...no pun intended). The RAS is still in my shop, but I only use it to make crosscuts to breakdown lumber or make quick cuts before the pieces make their way to the jointer/planer and table saw for more precise machining. Setup for those kind of cuts is infinitely easier than on the table saw. As for safety, I don't think it's any more dangerous than any of the other high-speed, high-powered, sharp spinny things I have in my shop.

For craftsmanship, elegance and interest, I'd pit the pinned raised finger joints of the Greene brothers against any dovetail joint.

Tugg

Those concerned with cost might want to re-evaluate. After 30 years, I finally had my accident last year. The blade was only up 1/2" and I was cutting a groove in a 1 1/2" thick board. With no hint of trouble, the kickback occurred as the leading edge exited the cut causing the board to flip back over the blade causing me to lose half of my right index finger and do serious damage to my middle finger. By the time my hand surgeon and I finally parted ways $45,000 had changed hands (no pun intended). Knowing what I know now, I'd be ecstatic that I had to replace a cartridge and blade. Not only would it be cheaper, it’d be easier.

By the way, I’m still in the shop “making sawdust” as my Dad used to say.