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Router edge guide and fluting guide

The basic idea can be used to make guides of different sizes. This particular one is quite large. The design makes a good edge guide, angle guide, and (in this size) fluting guide. You can see from...

Hinge mortising jig

A real time saver, easy to make and use. The jig as pictured handles work pieces up to 3" wide, and makes accurate mortises up to 4" long with a palm router and 3/8" bit. The dimensions can be...

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Re: Hinge mortising jig

As with many things, it's harder to describe than to do. Let's say you've marked the first mortise and you've got the bit depth set. Let's say that you are going to do the mortise on the right end of the workpiece. Loosen all the knobs on the guide.

1. Place the jig on the workpiece and snug the two halves against the workpiece.
2. Place the router so the base is against the right side cross arm and the right side of the bit aligns with the right edge of the mortise. Now position the end stop so it touches the right end of the workpiece. That sets the right side of the mortise relative to the end of the workpiece.
3. Place the router so the base is against the left cross arm and the left side of the bit aligns with the left edge of the mortise. This sets the total width of the mortise. Snug the two big knobs. Move the width stop (the piece with the small knob) so it is against the left cross arm.
4. Adjust the router base edge guide so the back side of the bit aligns with the back edge of the mortise. Start routing.

A friend has promised to help me do a YouTube demo. When that gets done I'll post the link.

With the end stop and width stop set, the two larger knobs can be loosened without losing the adjustments. Since the guide is symmetric you turn it 180 deg., put it on the left end of the workpiece and cut that mortise without any further adjustment.

I did eight cabinet doors and jambs (32 mortises) in less than 30 minutes including setup. The jambs and door uprights were still raw and all the same length. I always trim my completed doors after the cabinet is built. That's the easiest way for me to get a really nice gap all around.

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