slowlearner

If this works it might be worthwhile building a whole new bench around it.
The price (mid 300's) seems high to me, but it would solve a lot of bench clamping problems. I hope that FW can find a way to trace this invention.

I've made maybe twenty of Norm's New Yankee Workshop projects and bought many of the tools he demonstrated.
He is the major reason why I got into, and enjoy, woodworking so much. There should be a Nobel prize for woodworking. At the least the president should award him the Medal of Freedom for all he's done.

I've used a design somewhat like this for years. As orko suggests, hold-down clamps are needed to keep the workpiece from sliding. The platform on the right is supposed to keep the workpiece from dropping and that may be useful, but it just gets in the way. I tried a design like this once and the platform sometimes moved with the workpiece. The best use for a sled like this is to trim the right side of a sheet for accuracy (ie exactly 90 degrees and precisely at the planned cut line.) Usually cutting off just an inch, more or less. The cutoff falls on the table behind the blade and I've never had a problem with this. If the goal is to split a large sheet then it would be better to omit the sled and place the right side of the sheet against the fence, putting your hands on both sides of the sheet, far away from the blade and hopefully while using both a riving knife and an anti-kick-back device on the knife. If the piece on the right is too small to allow for your right hand plus a generous safety margin, then use a flat push stick to substitute. My Powermatic table saw has a knee-kick shut-off switch which I actuate when the workpiece passes the blade. The sled back fence alignment is the hardest part, but I found out that it's better to attach it with screws. The broad flat area of the fence allows for many angle adjustments to be made by simply redrilling the screw holes.