sfwood

Good technique, the crowned wheel is certainly a good idea, otherwise its really easy to burn the corners of the chisel. I see a fair amount of black residue on the side of the grinding wheel, have you been a naughty boy and used the side of the wheel?

I agree with those who find other cross cut saws better suited for some tasks than the RA saw such as mitered frames, rail/stiles etc., big panels and long crosscuts, sure other saws are more efficient and often more accurate and safer. However my 10" Delta has been an invaluable shop workhorse since I've taken the time to set it up. I don't chop though the fence or slice the table for occasional angle and miter cuts because I have an auxiliary table/fence overlay. I just secure the overlay table, raise the blade and have at it. EG: I use a separate overlay table/fence for accurately dadoing 3/8" cedar for shoji screens. I use the tool with appropriate respect for its power and potential danger.

I read that some have difficultly and/or frustration keeping the saw cutting square and I've seen some older RA saws lacking detents or stops for rapid registration/setting for 90 degree cuts. My simple solution: I set the saw and table up as good as I could, that is to cut 90 degrees plumb and square to the table and fence. I installed a dado blade (3/4") and cut a 1/4" deep slot in the table, full stroke, using a scrap fence. I cut a 1/4" hardwood insert and install it flush to the table in the dado cut (screws countersunk along the edge). I then reinstalled the cross-cut blade, double checked the square/plumb and cut into the insert about 1/16" deep. This created a registration cut and any time I need that perfect right angle I just make sure the blade is riding in that cut. With a fresh fence, I can use the slot in the fence to locate the cut. I replace the insert as needed and of course don't cut through the screws in the table. I hope this helps. sfwood