Recent comments

Re: Secret Dovetails


Interesting tidbit about the inferencing on the angle. That could come in handy. It never fails, I always learn something by watching your videos.

Like you said, many ways to do the same thing. My inclination would have been to make the panels 1/4 thinner than final, create through dovetails, then thicken them up and add the bevels. Interesting difference of thought processes.

Thanks for sharing.


Re: Create a Cut List From Your Model

Dave is right. Using the Move tool is the way to go for resizing. Do this 3-4 times and it quickly becomes your preferred method.

For fixing ~ dimensions, I often go outside of a component and draw a temporary line at the correct location(where Dave draws a Guide line). I edit the component and Move the end to that line(snapping it in place). Exit the component, and then delete my temporary line.

As for the cut list, I have never seen a use for the cut list add-on. Mainly because I can count on one hand when I've ever built something from standard size lumber. I guess if you live in a perfect world where HD is behind your shop and you have absolutely no scraps left in your shop, then it might be useful. :P

Re: Save Your Components

Some good take-aways Dave. I need to better organize my components and this might just fit that need. I always like learning new thing about SU.

Re: UPDATE: 3 Book Giveaway! Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to...

Looks like a nice set that compliment each other. I was looking at a Jeff Jewitt book just last week. Yes, please put me in for the draw. Thanks.

Re: Shop Talk Live 7: Mike Gets Crickets

Matt, Do you perhaps have a link to any pictures? I am looking to build one myself.

Re: STL 53: Bitchin' Block Rabbet Planes

Matt, I couldn't agree more with your comments regarding flocking and bandsaw boxes.

So with the Chestnut. If new chestnut trees were planted, could it now survive? Could you even find Chestnut seeds to begin with? How does this play out with other species that have died out?

Re: Make a sled that handles both square and miter cuts

Nice idea Matt.

It seems that there is wasted space between the two fences. I would suggest install a temporary rear fence where you have your precision one. You install your miter guide and such and cut your first bevel cut. Then you install your precision fence at the rear, making darned sure it is square with your bevel cut. Then simply remove the temporary fence ahead of it.

Re: Shop Talk Live 7: Mike Gets Crickets


I tried to find any kind of info. on the Angle Right Miter Gauge you mentioned. Can't find a thing on it. Do I have the company name correct? Any links to something online would be appreciated. Thanks.

Re: Shop Talk Live 7: Mike Gets Crickets

Thanks Mike & Matt. It was a good listen. And thanks Ed for fixing the audio.

Re: A Barrel Chair --part 2


I ALWAYS learn something when I watch your videos. This time it was Unhiding Last. I'll be using that one. It will save me from having to drill down into nested components to get to the part I last hid. Thank you.

You used the Bezier curve rather than the plain Arc. Why? Is that a plugin? What is the benefit of Bezier over the Arc tool in the way you used it?

You selected 2 lines and a curve and Welded them together. I searched and did not find "Weld" as part of the factory SketchUp. Is that part of a plugin?



Re: Shop Talk Live 45: Taking the Fun Out of Fine Woodworking

I've wanted to say the same thing WoodworkingDaddy wrote in about your podcast but thought it would not be taken more than just a complaint that would be simply ignored. He said it much more eloquent than I would have anyway.

There is ENTIRELY too much chatter and side talk. It had been months since I tried listening to the podcast due to this. It is currently painfully full of drivel. I listen to it and read articles to gain knowledge, not to hob knob with you all. The chatter provides nothing to the podcast. It actually takes a LOT away from it. Please go back and listen to EVERYTHING WoodworkingDaddy said and consider tightening things up.

Thank you for listening.

Re: A Step Stool With Box Joints and Loose Tenons

Dave, in actuality, I would open the leg component, select all, make that a component, insert the tennon, exit the editing of the original 'leg' component, then optionally explode it(both copies). That would give you both placement of the 2nd tennon, and capability for your cut-list. Sorry for the lack of details. :) I don't do the cutlist thing with the wizzard. I do mine manually.

Re: A Step Stool With Box Joints and Loose Tenons

I have to agree with Dave. There was a time I used to rotate and came across the problems he describes. Once I got used to Flipping, then it made the building and changing much easier.

Dave, one thing I saw that I would change is the building and placing of the loose tennon. I would have built the first one, made it a component, then moved it to INSIDE the one leg component. This eliminates the reason to build the second one entirely, and all the gyrations(ie. rotations) that went along with it. Just a thought.

Thanks for sharing these. As already mentioned, I always seem to pick up a tip or two.


Re: Make It Go Faster

That thing about having the axis fortuitously located will come in handy. I never knew that was how it was placed when doing a 'Paste'. Thanks Dave.

I started a 'Component' file a while back but it never went far. I'm starting it AGAIN. Thanks for the prodding.

Re: Axes in SketchUp

Axes? I came here to see the Axes in SketchUp. I don't see no stinkin Axes. Where are the Axes? I am sooooo disappointed. :)

Re: Creating Hardware For Your Models


Now that looks down-right useful. I'd never thought of using pictures for texturing. And you are right, these detailed pieces don't have to be all that accurate, they are only representations and the blocky-ness will not get noticed. Thanks for sharing.


Re: Turn Your Model Into a Real Object

Now that's a clever idea Dave. I knew about the metals but not the two tone plastic. Thanks for sharing.


Re: Shop Talk Live 7: Mike Gets Crickets

I wish I could listen to this but the audio volume is just too low. I have the volume on my computer maxed out, same on the video insert.

I really got some good info. from "On The Pod". Wish I could hear this one.

Re: How to make a sacrificial rip fence that never wears out

That's a nice tip Matt.

@dlobbster - I was thinking some dowels, but blocks would work just as good.

Re: UPDATE: Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers - The Basics with Dave Richards

Please include me in the drawing. I am about to embark on starting a class in teaching woodworkers SU. This might be a good tool to include in the teaching.

Re: Repairing a Checked Tabletop


My first thought was as cirelloman mentioned, if you are installing the spline for strength, you have the spline grain running the wrong way. It is as weak as the original wood(which failed, I might add).

Using a biscuit would also have the same grain orientation as you installed your spline and would not fare any better IMO. Biscuits are oriented such that the grain runs from side to side, not tip to tip. This is done for a reason.

I would recommend on future problems such as this, you run the grain across the joint you are strengthening, not parallel to it. If you are concerned about looks, then you can cap the spline off with a very thin piece with the grain running parallel to the existing grain. Just a thought.


Re: Workbench clamp for perfect dovetails

Mike, This is a VERY clever idea. Thank you for sharing this.

As much as I revere benches as consumables, I too would feel a little queasy drilling into my own bench for this. However, I DO think this one would be worth it. I'd have to research other possible alternative clamps first though. Additionally, I prefer universally workable ideas that I can take to other workshops I happen to be in.

Note: If you would rotate your clamp heads 180 degrees(facing away from your work), you'd have as much holding power but gain more room between the clamps for your hands to hold the chisel.

Re: How to Make Arts & Crafts-style Drawer Pulls

Clever trick using the DP in combination with the router. To minimize tearout on the piece, drilling before routing the top/bottom coves might be advisable though.

Re: Router Injury Sparks Reflection on Safety

Matt, I'm glad you didn't get hurt any more than you did. Yes, I'm sure you learnt from the mistake. And I hope its a long time before it happens again.

On another note, as one of my favorite editors, my ears perk up when I see an article by you. However, reading this one has let me down. No matter what you actually said, you chose to include it in the article, somehow thinking it would be ok if you loosly disguised your profanity. You might as well have just spelled the words out. By choosing to include your profanity, you added absolutely nothing to the article whatsoever, but you lost some respect. I hope this is not a trend for you or FWW.

Re: "John Owen's Adventure"

John, my prayers go out to your grandson. Its good to hear you are enjoying some time together with him.

Beautiful piece. Nice addition with the texture in the top surface. I'm intrigued with your 'Cincinnatti Machine' you built. Will you possibly be doing an article on that?

Re: Updated with Video: Making a Shaker Knob

Thanks for the workaround on the holes. However, you've set me straight with a problems I've had understanding why I could not ALWAYS get the follow me tool to work. I was not selecting the path BEFORE I clicked on Follow Me. I know, not your intention, but it helped. Thanks! :)

Re: Is the Radial Arm Saw on its Last Legs?


> How does one safely crosscut a twelve foot long board on a table saw?

It's just not made for that. That's sorta like asking "What's the best route to take while riding a pogo stick from LA to Florida?". :) It could be done if you were in dire need but it is simply not the 'best tool for the job'.

> How, does one get a dead accurate crosscut or dado when you can't see where the blade is in relationship to the work?

Even though you may not be able to see the blade during a cut doesn't mean you don't know precisely where it is. You can either eyeball it at the beginning of the cut or use reference points such as a stop block. You could get a better idea by finding a WW store near you for a demo or find a local woodworker to give you a TS tour.

I see comments on this discussion and others that seem to try to point to a 'Best' tool for everything for everybody. There simply isn't one. Each one has its pros & cons. Most tools have a primary purpose but that doesn't mean they can't be used or modified to do something else. Sometimes they can do those other things quite well. And sometimes jigs are used to accomodate secondary purposes for a tool. I'd never heard of using a RAS for penturning. :D Now that's a new one I'd like to see in person.

I've safely done ripping on a RAS but I'd suggest it is not the best tool for ripping. But if you don't own the 'best' tool for ripping, then you can certainly use your RAS. Sorry for rambling.



Re: A Call for Bloggers!

cblouin, I believe folks at EVERY level have something to contribute as long as the project is documented & photographed within the guidelines of what FWW expects. If the project submissions are reviewed before publishing, then the editors could correct any part that you may not, as you say "be authoritative" on.

Re: Is the Radial Arm Saw on its Last Legs?

kloker, you hit the nail on the head in your first paragraph. I agree whole heartedly. :)

I have a RAS passed down from my dad. I can, and have used it safely for crosscuts, rips, dados, etc. Yes, it takes up some space. Oh, and BTW, concerning safety, I've ALWAYS PUSHED the blade into the wood TOWARDS the fence. (IMO)Pulling it toward the work is wrong on SOOOOOOOO many levels. I even cut some frozen hamburger with it one time, that was funny.

MY CMS is not a slider. If the RAS bit the dust, I'd prob. replace it with a CSMS eventually, but not immediately. If they never mf'd another RAS my heart wouldn't be broken, but as long as mine runs, I won't get rid of it. It has a place in MY shop.

Re: How to Win $1.5-Million: Lessons from the Tablesaw Lawsuit

Has Ryobi actually paid or is the Appeal still pending?

Re: A Call for Bloggers!

Pardon me, but what's the incentive for the bloggers? You're basically asking us to write mini-articles, with pictures. It takes time to put together a good article such as you are asking for. I don't mean to sound selfish, but isn't that the job of your editors, to write articles? They get paid for their work, you've mentioned nothing about compensation for our efforts. I already help new woodworkers with questions they have, and for free.

There are hundreds of blog sites, some better than others. What's the draw for us more experienced folks to become active on one more site? You're asking for a portion of our time, something that some of us have less and less of.

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