rupps

Dave, in actuality, I would open the leg component, select all, make that a component, insert the tennon, exit the editing of the original 'leg' component, then optionally explode it(both copies). That would give you both placement of the 2nd tennon, and capability for your cut-list. Sorry for the lack of details. :) I don't do the cutlist thing with the wizzard. I do mine manually.

I have to agree with Dave. There was a time I used to rotate and came across the problems he describes. Once I got used to Flipping, then it made the building and changing much easier.

Dave, one thing I saw that I would change is the building and placing of the loose tennon. I would have built the first one, made it a component, then moved it to INSIDE the one leg component. This eliminates the reason to build the second one entirely, and all the gyrations(ie. rotations) that went along with it. Just a thought.

Thanks for sharing these. As already mentioned, I always seem to pick up a tip or two.

Rance

That thing about having the axis fortuitously located will come in handy. I never knew that was how it was placed when doing a 'Paste'. Thanks Dave.

I started a 'Component' file a while back but it never went far. I'm starting it AGAIN. Thanks for the prodding.

Axes? I came here to see the Axes in SketchUp. I don't see no stinkin Axes. Where are the Axes? I am sooooo disappointed. :)

Dave,

Now that looks down-right useful. I'd never thought of using pictures for texturing. And you are right, these detailed pieces don't have to be all that accurate, they are only representations and the blocky-ness will not get noticed. Thanks for sharing.

Rance

Now that's a clever idea Dave. I knew about the metals but not the two tone plastic. Thanks for sharing.

Rance

I wish I could listen to this but the audio volume is just too low. I have the volume on my computer maxed out, same on the video insert.

I really got some good info. from "On The Pod". Wish I could hear this one.

That's a nice tip Matt.

@dlobbster - I was thinking some dowels, but blocks would work just as good.

Please include me in the drawing. I am about to embark on starting a class in teaching woodworkers SU. This might be a good tool to include in the teaching.

Ed,

My first thought was as cirelloman mentioned, if you are installing the spline for strength, you have the spline grain running the wrong way. It is as weak as the original wood(which failed, I might add).

Using a biscuit would also have the same grain orientation as you installed your spline and would not fare any better IMO. Biscuits are oriented such that the grain runs from side to side, not tip to tip. This is done for a reason.

I would recommend on future problems such as this, you run the grain across the joint you are strengthening, not parallel to it. If you are concerned about looks, then you can cap the spline off with a very thin piece with the grain running parallel to the existing grain. Just a thought.

Rance

Mike, This is a VERY clever idea. Thank you for sharing this.

As much as I revere benches as consumables, I too would feel a little queasy drilling into my own bench for this. However, I DO think this one would be worth it. I'd have to research other possible alternative clamps first though. Additionally, I prefer universally workable ideas that I can take to other workshops I happen to be in.

Note: If you would rotate your clamp heads 180 degrees(facing away from your work), you'd have as much holding power but gain more room between the clamps for your hands to hold the chisel.

Clever trick using the DP in combination with the router. To minimize tearout on the piece, drilling before routing the top/bottom coves might be advisable though.

Matt, I'm glad you didn't get hurt any more than you did. Yes, I'm sure you learnt from the mistake. And I hope its a long time before it happens again.

On another note, as one of my favorite editors, my ears perk up when I see an article by you. However, reading this one has let me down. No matter what you actually said, you chose to include it in the article, somehow thinking it would be ok if you loosly disguised your profanity. You might as well have just spelled the words out. By choosing to include your profanity, you added absolutely nothing to the article whatsoever, but you lost some respect. I hope this is not a trend for you or FWW.

John, my prayers go out to your grandson. Its good to hear you are enjoying some time together with him.

Beautiful piece. Nice addition with the texture in the top surface. I'm intrigued with your 'Cincinnatti Machine' you built. Will you possibly be doing an article on that?

Thanks for the workaround on the holes. However, you've set me straight with a problems I've had understanding why I could not ALWAYS get the follow me tool to work. I was not selecting the path BEFORE I clicked on Follow Me. I know, not your intention, but it helped. Thanks! :)

jimbite,

> How does one safely crosscut a twelve foot long board on a table saw?

It's just not made for that. That's sorta like asking "What's the best route to take while riding a pogo stick from LA to Florida?". :) It could be done if you were in dire need but it is simply not the 'best tool for the job'.

> How, does one get a dead accurate crosscut or dado when you can't see where the blade is in relationship to the work?

Even though you may not be able to see the blade during a cut doesn't mean you don't know precisely where it is. You can either eyeball it at the beginning of the cut or use reference points such as a stop block. You could get a better idea by finding a WW store near you for a demo or find a local woodworker to give you a TS tour.

I see comments on this discussion and others that seem to try to point to a 'Best' tool for everything for everybody. There simply isn't one. Each one has its pros & cons. Most tools have a primary purpose but that doesn't mean they can't be used or modified to do something else. Sometimes they can do those other things quite well. And sometimes jigs are used to accomodate secondary purposes for a tool. I'd never heard of using a RAS for penturning. :D Now that's a new one I'd like to see in person.

I've safely done ripping on a RAS but I'd suggest it is not the best tool for ripping. But if you don't own the 'best' tool for ripping, then you can certainly use your RAS. Sorry for rambling.

HTH.

Rance

cblouin, I believe folks at EVERY level have something to contribute as long as the project is documented & photographed within the guidelines of what FWW expects. If the project submissions are reviewed before publishing, then the editors could correct any part that you may not, as you say "be authoritative" on.

kloker, you hit the nail on the head in your first paragraph. I agree whole heartedly. :)

I have a RAS passed down from my dad. I can, and have used it safely for crosscuts, rips, dados, etc. Yes, it takes up some space. Oh, and BTW, concerning safety, I've ALWAYS PUSHED the blade into the wood TOWARDS the fence. (IMO)Pulling it toward the work is wrong on SOOOOOOOO many levels. I even cut some frozen hamburger with it one time, that was funny.

MY CMS is not a slider. If the RAS bit the dust, I'd prob. replace it with a CSMS eventually, but not immediately. If they never mf'd another RAS my heart wouldn't be broken, but as long as mine runs, I won't get rid of it. It has a place in MY shop.

Has Ryobi actually paid or is the Appeal still pending?

Pardon me, but what's the incentive for the bloggers? You're basically asking us to write mini-articles, with pictures. It takes time to put together a good article such as you are asking for. I don't mean to sound selfish, but isn't that the job of your editors, to write articles? They get paid for their work, you've mentioned nothing about compensation for our efforts. I already help new woodworkers with questions they have, and for free.

There are hundreds of blog sites, some better than others. What's the draw for us more experienced folks to become active on one more site? You're asking for a portion of our time, something that some of us have less and less of.