larinUP

NO. NO. NO. ...

Doesn't pass the "Read, understand, etc. ..." TS manual safety instructions. Too many people out there that could/would/will screw this up.

Also, this technique uses the fence AND the miter gauge - not safe - I know, not a through cut, but...



Larry

With the recent addition of a Hock blade for my Stanley #4, and a burnisher for my scrapers, this is just the book I need.

Larry

I made this jig after seeing it in FWW. Easy to make and use - just remember to cut up the curve - as noted in video. If saved, the pattern can be and easily stored after the clamps are removed. The clamps can be reused on the next pattern you make. Works for me.

I agree with OF, having the clamp over the blade is scary and dangerous. Why can’t the clamp be reversed so the camping mechanism is over the base - the other clamps may have to be repositioned. Also, route a horizontal slot in place of the holes. Make the slot just slightly wider than the clamp bar so the clamp cannot rotate. I also use a bandsaw for cutting tenons.

Talk about devotion to the Corps - Semper Fi.

Tom, you say:

"... it doesn’t matter if you use power tools or heavy rocks and sharpened sticks of hardwood to build. Trying to find your own style in your own shop while you work and emanate those feelings through the work that you do, the pieces you create, this is the challenge. ..."

That says it all.

Larry

Dave,
Good tutorial, I’m using most of the techniques shown, but I was reminded of some I had forgotten and learned a few new tricks.

I also found your blog post “Creating a Project Plan in SketchUp” (11-23-08) helpful. I’m using the other approach you mention. I draw the legs w/joinery in the 1st scene, then the next component in the next scene and move a copy back to the first scene. Building the table component by component - with a lot of help from the move tool.

Also, you write - “Some folks like to make separate SketchUp files for each of the views they need but I find it too difficult to keep track of what I've done and what I have yet to do. I find it much easier to jump from scene to scene as needed.” This is very, very good advise and a real time saver!

I know I’m hi-jacking this move tool post but, one more comment - I’ve found the hide tool to be one of the most simple, but useful SU tools.

Keep up the good work.

Thanks, Larry James

Tim,
Looks so easy when you draw it. I find myself using the "remove material" approach more often as my SU skills improve. Usually easier (for me) to remove material to achieve the shape needed than to add and intersect parts.

Thanks, Larry

peppersvnv The site is tonyfoale.com (drop the s). Looks like Windows only - no Mac version.
Larry

Kevin, in “The Not So Big Workshop.”

I can assure you, you are not alone!

Sounds like you have given your situation a lot of thought and set some realistic priorities.

Keep the dream.

Larry

John, good videos! I like the router table circle jig. I'll be using my BS to cut the top, but the combination of cutting the circle and chamfering the top in one setup is a great idea. That jig is on my to-do list.

I'll be using red oak that is abundant an inexpensive locally. Now that I have watched your videos, I may even try a red oak-white oak veneer version.

Beauty of this project is challenging joinery, not much material, and a classy little "gift" project.

I'm gearing up to build the version of the table by Kelly J. Dunton, from Fine Woodworking #186. Also a similar design, by Gary Rogowski is available on the FWW web site.

>Arts and Crafts Side Table by Kelly J. Dunton with pdf file. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/projectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=26887

>A nicely modified design by Gary Rogowski. "Build a Round Table" - video series. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignArticle.aspx?id=29314

Hope to see more project videos from you.

Larry, Marquette, MI