kenerv1

We can always use a device that works better and costs less. Most of us think following rules is safe enough until we have an event that we do not know how it could have been prevented. I had a really close call, despite "doing everything right". My concern with blade guards is their interference with good vision of the blade and the cut.

This purpose made sink means my elbow will never be so dirty again.

Rarely. Depends on thickness, hardness, grain direction, and size of the workpiece AND the diameter along with type and height of the bit. Larger the workpiece and smaller, simpler, and sharper the bit the more comfortable I am with climb cutting. If I do it, it will only be when fingers cannot be pulled or pushed near the bit-- should the bit take the Trojan horse's piece in it's teeth.

The temptation gets great to climb when suffering tearout with a monster panel raiser...don't do it.

Let's not turn the issue into a knee jerk nebulous left-right political argument -- rather let's try critical thinking on the specific issue at hand.

o Are large numbers of experienced and inexperienced sawyers seriously damaged from table saws?
o Is there affordable and practical technology available that would meaningfully reduce such injuries?
o Is there a significant risk of an inquisitive 8? year old child (or visiting grandchild, nephew/niece, neigbor) avoidably injured by a table saw?
o Has the industry acted (or likely to act) in a timely and effective fashion on its own?

I suspect there is not a great deal of disagreement on the answers to these questions.

When I bought my first new, yelnatS plane, nobody told me it did not come sharpened. Not pretty.

Glad to see you here. I now have reason to hope that I might see an article on building a Swedish Nyckelharpa in Fine Woodworking. Am I going too far?

I would like:
o a slide out or tip out tray or shelf underneath, or at least in reach, that secures power points and powered battery chargers, with clearance for batteries, and space for cordless tools. Hand tools ok there too.

o Good old thick heavy LEVEL SQUARE hardwood top and massive legs. I like the accurately spaced and squared holes ideas. Probably need hardpoints to keep holes accurate. If top gets beat up, just plane it down. (be sure to lower hard points)

o Full width, stable, double screw end-vice.

o front leg vice, used along with sliding vertical support board with holes and pegs or horizontal hold down for traditional edge planing. (must move clear of battery shelf)

OK..router is out of table facing down; so the upcut bit cuts dow- no up; and I cut clockwise in an inside rout..or is it countercl....

Thank you Norm. When I first saw Norm working, those many short years ago, I thought "he is more carpenter than woodworker." Then he became the woodworker's woodworker. If there is a TV owning or book reading woodworker who has not learned from Norm I would like to meet him. Most important though, is the feeling he gives, that if you did walk into his shop with a question, you would be welcome and you would get a serious answer. I regret I never had the opportunity to prove that theory.

Thank you Norm.