kayaks

I would love to learn how to deal with changing grain patterns while planing. Even with high plane angles, narrow mouth openings, an sharp blades I still get tearout in hard maple as the grain swirls. I hope this video can show me how to overcome this and plane for finish instead of sand for finish.

I would love this video. I use sketchup for all my projects.

Matt,

There was more than 1 typo in my last comment. The case is going to be 19" deep, not 14". Sorry.

Kayaks

Matt,

You are correct. The case is 14" deep front to back, and the back wil bbe 1/2" plywood nailed and glued.

Kayaks

Matthew,

I am planning to build an 84" long dresser with 3 rows of drawers flush to the case edges. The case is solid 1" thick walnut and I plan to miter the corners so that no edges are showing. I plan to strengthen and glue the miter joints with with loose tenons ( dominoes) but I am worried that this will not provide enough strength to keep the case square over it's length. There will be one horizontal dust panel and several vertical partitions so I can attach drawer slides. All of the partitions and dust panel will be slip tenoned to allow for expansion. The horizontal dust panel will be dadoes into the case sides, and all the vertical partitions will be screwed into the case and dust panel. There will be 3 sets of short legs, one pair at each end and one pair in the middle screwed to the case bottom. Since I want the drawers to have a tight fit ( allowing for expansion/contraction), the case must be square. Do you think I need to beef up the case construction in the corners to provide more surface to keep the case square? Thanks.

Kayaks

Just like clamps, you can never have too much information on finishing! Every book adds some new information and tips. I'd love this book!