Houston, TX, US
TGP - Transportable propane tanks are really over-designed. While it is true that when pressurized, the tank material is under tension, try pressing as hard as you can on the side of an empty tank with your finger tip. (You can easily achieve over 100 PSI.) It won't even begin to deflect, and that is 6x the external load the tank will experience under vacuum. (And that is a point load.) Remember that the steel is over 0.100" thick. There is no way 14.7 PSI is going to deform it.
Great article! I picked up my pump at that place down by the water that ships stuff. (HF) It's intended for HVAC use. Just remove the assembly with the Freon valves and you're good to go. It was about $60 bucks with one of their coupons. Of course it also works great for vacuum pressing.
On the topic of stinky wood, I think red oak is one of the worst. I put about 2000 bf of rough sawn lumber to air dry in a barn, and had most of it milled for flooring for my house. I made furniture and stair treads with the rest. It's gone now, and I don't think I'll make another piece with red oak again. Phew!
I was always taught, "Measure twice. Cut one."
Does this improve accuracy? Perhaps. Does this practice eliminate mistakes? You still must use care. Call it superstition if you like, bit it works for me.
I've never done it on the band saw, though.
I took delivery of my stationary planer with a standard cutter head. I never turned it on before replacing the head with a Shells. Now I have a brand new standard cutter head, as well as a remarkable Shells cutter-equipped planer. Oh - and I saved about $400 bucks over buying the matching with a clone segmented head.
I also upgraded my jointer. These were the best upgrades I've done in my shop. You can just forget tear out. You can pretty much forget grain direction. (And of course we all know that grain direction never reverses on a board, right? 😉) Yes, they are expensive - but you won't spend a better chunk on anything else. (Well, except for maybe that new Laguna bandsaw I bought, but that's another story!)
Autocorrect strikes again! I meant to say "right-angle"!
Hey Mike - Instead of buying that right-handed tool bomb for the sole purpose of drilling a few pilot holes, why didn't you consider getting one of those cheapo throwdown right-handed drill adapters? They cost less than ten bucks! Heck - they're cheap enough to use once and toss them.
Hey Ed- I wouldn't call it 'blather' at all. You apparently just misspoke. Either way, the podcast is a staple of my Saturday mornings. I enjoy it immensely, laugh, cry, hurl, and always learn something. Keep it up, Buddy!
BTW: I caught Mike's video on ammonia fuming with 'regular' ammonia. Guess that answered the question we discussed last year. Talk to you soon.
Hey gentlemen. Don't let our pal Ed do any wiring for you. 230 volt equipment does indeed require two circuit breakers on each 115V leg - but there is no "neutral"! The third wore is the Ground! Current does not, (or should not under normal operations), flow in that wire. It flows only between the 115V legs. The voltage in these is out of phase by 180 degrees, so the voltage across them is 2 X 115 or 230V. As the current flowing out of one leg must return through the other, the breakers see identical current. Therefore, if you have a pair of 20 amp breakers on your 230V circuit, you have a 20A circuit - not 40 amps.
Also, with motor ratings, efficiency is a huge issue as alluded to in the podcast. Universal motors, (really AC/DC motors), have efficiencies at load on the order of 60%, or even less. This means that when loaded, they not only slow down, but they get HOT. Table saws, Matt's big jointer, and other stationary equipment use induction motors. These run at constant speed, regardless of load, and are much more efficient - on the order of 85-90%. Very large, 3-phase motors achieve better than 95%. All this means they run far cooler at a given mechanical output than universal types.
All this is why we use induction motors for table saws. If you substituted your 3 HP router motor in your table saw and tried to rip 8/4 oak stock with it, you would shortly see smoke coming from the stock as the blade slowed down, and shortly thereafter from the motor. After that, it would billow from the base of the saw cabinet as the molten metal from the motor fell into the dust collection area.
I loved the cabinet maker's triangle done with the Sharpie. Classic!
Subscribe now and save up to 56%
© 2017 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start your subscription today and save up to 56%