dcheek

Forgot one thought. As to having to cut the sides and front on the same machine and setting.

It can be the most efficient way to do it, but I don't think it's necessary for accuracy. I cut the sides on the saw first.

Then used the cut groove to set the height of the slot cutter bit, which makes it spot on. The depth needs to be 'close,' but not identical by machinists standards in my opinion. If it looks the same visually to me, I'm happy.

Hi All,

I recently had the same issue on the back of a serpentine drawer for a dressing mirror.

I wanted a groove in the heavy 1/8, light 3/16 range, but did not have a bearing for my slot cutter to allow for less than 1/4. I had cut the grooves for the sides on the table saw.

What I ended up using was a 'pipe jig.' It has an arm that reaches out with a section of pipe (1 1/2" diameter or thereabouts) through it that can be raised or lowered as needed. It has a back section perpendicular to the arm that allows it to be clamped to the router table.

So you have your slot cutter in the router table as normal. You set the proper bit height, and then position your pipe jig so that it comes down over the bit.

You adjust the jig until the rotation of the bit extends beyond the pipe to the desired depth of the groove. It's helpful to draw a vertical line on the pipe to pick as your apex point and reference your setting off there.

Then you make sure to ride that point with the workpiece after you come off the starting pin when you cut the slot. If you wander on the circumference of the pipe as you feed the piece, the depth of the cut will vary.

It's a bit fussy in setting up, and requires building the jig, but it's useful to have and works well.

Dan