cahudson42

While I hope I can attend, I also hope that arrangements will be made to videotape the entire event and all the sessions. That way Members who are not able to physically be there can still enjoy the event afterward.

The videos need not be tightly edited as your great 'Project' series are. Live - as is - like the Asa-Mike 'shootout', and the Asa interview with editors (Hack, Rogowski etc.) will do just fine...

Hi Jay,

Neat project! And what sweet planing sound!

I believe I read you sanded the panels, then hand planed.

Of course, we have all read in FWW 50 times you never do this or your 'blade will be instantly dulled' :>)

To keep the edge on the planes, did you do anything to try to remove any sanding residue? Or, is the old advice - like so much stuff - simply an 'old wive's tale'?

Chris

Add me into the hat!

One more into the hat!

Maybe this time...:>)

Maybe this time...:>)

Sounds Great! And watch his FWW series on box making if you haven't seen it..

Put my name in the hat! Thanks..

One more into the hat! Thanks!

Mark,

With all due respect, Taunton has certainly profited from David's many articles and contributions over the years.

May I ask just what Taunton has contributed? (No need to say the amount - just that something was sent)

Sorry to be so callous, but in these Tea Party days of 'everyone for himself' - except when it comes to Banksters and Wall Street bailouts - 'times are tough'. Until my SS comes in 10/26, I count approximately $234 to get there.

Regards,
Chris

Nice recycling job, John.

For the rest of us who don't have access to old WRC clapboards, you might consider using standard WRC decking - 5/4 by 6" (5 1/2" actual). Yes, you can buy clapboards - but the ones I've seen are all beveled - and cost as much per sf.

John looks to have clear WRC boards - this stuff new does cost a fortune. But I find the knotty stuff to be just fine - and a lot less - about $1 lf as I remember. I buy 16' lengths as they seem to be clearer.

I've used a bunch for outdoor stuff - Garden Benches, Adirondack Chairs, etc. and not panels. But for panels I think I'd resaw in half. When finished planing, I would think we would have close to 1/2". A little less perhaps, but enough.

Many, many years ago as a young engineer involved in minicomputer machine tool control, I was taught that I was responsible to use 'best available practice' in whatever I designed.

If I did not use 'best available practice', then our company would be liable for damages should anyone be injured. If I did use 'best available practice', then if an injury happened, we had a defense. We used 'best available practice' - nothing more could have been expected.

Clearly, the SawStop blade sensing technology is without question the 'best available practice' when it comes to table saw design for avoiding amputations and any blade-contact injury.

Saw manufactures who adopt it should not face any damage suits because of blade contact. While those who do not, should expect them. Justifiably..

Add my name into the hat...Thanks!

Looks great - add me into the hat, too!

Looks great - add me into the hat, too!

Ad another name in the hat..:>)

Look interesting.. Put my name in the hat..:>)

Hi Matt,

Glad you came through OK!

I'm reminded of my own 'near accidents' when routing the edge on a 'butterfly' wall key holder. Its about 5" square, with the complex curves of a butterfly. I would try holding the workpiece with my hands, and route on the router table. No matter how close to the final line I had bandsawed, the piece would always grab. I stopped making them.

Then I saw a trick somewhere - forget where. Fasten the butterfly template securely to a vertical wood post (2 x4). Fasten the workpiece on top of that with screws/brads from the bottom. Clamp the post vertically in your bench vise. Proceed to route with a hand-held router on top (two hands holding it?) with flush-trim bit.

Hands are now completely away from the bit.
Chris

Throw my hat in..:>)

Hi Asa,

As always, under your leadership, FWW has had the best woodworking videos on the web. This looks like another winner!

One suggestion? Rather than 'dribble out' episode by episode over weeks, how about posting them all at once? We know they are already 'in the can' - so why not? Like the recent Trestle Table - where I was really pleased I could watch the entire series - and rewatch it - at one time.

Put more ads in if you must - but please do post all at one time, OK?

Chris

Tage Frid had a clever and cheap solution to knockdown - in his book 'Teaches Woodworking'.

He took a dowel, maybe 5/8 - 1/2 or so by 1". Drilled it out with a 1/4 hole. Tapped a 3/16 T-nut in one end. Drilled a dowel matching hole in one edge. Glued the T-nut/dowel in that.
3/16 bolt in to that through the other piece.

Nice knockdown joint - if a bit of work. Beats $1400!

Neat - but $1,400 will buy a lot of 1/4-20 steel barrel nuts and connector bolts at McFeely's...:>)

See in back? They ship-lap too!

Put me in!

Great Gina!

Keep bringing us more like this. Another reason finewoodworking.com is tops in my view..:>)

And almost forgot - your extra effort to give us additional references. Thanks again!

FWIW - almost any old beater #3/#4 can be a scrub plane with a highly cambered blade.

Save those $$ for the final smoother - my favorite - the LV '164 1/2' bevel up - about $220 and well worth it!

FWW has a great number of Dovetail tips, but here are two others where they weren't listed as such, and not as easy to find. Two streaming videos:

http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2800/2802.html

Above is a Roy Underhill Woodwrights Shop from 2008-2009 - the 1st part of a Joiner's Toolchest. Its essentially a complete lesson in handmade through dovetails. Some neat transfer marking tricks using the tail saw kerfs you may not have seen before.

http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/peruvian-walnut-tool-chest/39731.html

A David Marks WoodWorks show - another tool cabinet - this time in Walnut. While the dovetails are 'handmade' - no jig is used - David uses a bandsaw with a stop, spacers, and tilts as necessary to make the saw cuts. If you aren't that great with a dovetail saw, you might take a look.

My #1 tablesaw safety tip:

Throw it out.

Use a tracksaw - like the Festool TS-55, and for narrow rips - a good bandsaw and fence.

I suggest you test the durability - particularly the water resistance - of this new stuff.

IMHO - all water-based 'finishes' for fine furniture can never equal the results of equivalent solvent-based - and I never, ever, would ruin anything I make by using them. The reason is simple: 'oil and water don't mix'.

To get them to mix, rather to get the resin to emulsify in the water carrier, manufacturer add 'surfactants' - soaps. Even if the finish cross-links when drying, these surfactants are still there. Waiting to 'do their job' - and dissolve the finish the minute water hits it.

Also, check the composition - sometimes the MSDS will tell you something - like the resin is acrylic - rather than a real urethane, phenolic, or alkyd true varnish. That is - it is soft and gummy.

Water-based latex house paint makes sense. Water-based furniture finishes do not. Their continued promotion does a disservice to all involved in making fine furniture.

Whats next? Dove-tailed MDF? Mortise and tenon MDF? Hand planed MDF? Stained MDF? Carved MDF? Inlaid MDF?

Templates, patterns, work table tops, sacrificial backers, jigs - thats it.

Asa,

Hmmm. So many possibilities... How about doing a 'build off' at your FWW shop? Sorta like the 'mudroom' built-ins a couple issues ago?

But more than two - how about three, or four?

Each 'contestant' gets this thread to read for background. (But editing/distilling it would be better..).

Then they go to work. A week? Two weeks? FWW foots the bill for materials and supplies.

Then each design is presented - and FWW members get to vote!

The winner gets a nice new Grizzly Bandsaw or something of similar value.

Why not?
Chris

Asa,

With all the great suggestions, it seems the bench design really needs a Festool-like 'systems approach' based on modularity and interchangeability. Interchangeable tops (i.e. Festool MFT1080 plate, or traditional hardwood, or torsion box, or sacrificial MDF, a combo of some sort, or?). Perhaps a couple interchangeable base designs - trestle, or 'box' like your 'Beginning Woodworking' video example, or a kitchen cabinet, or?

I would also ask that you slightly 'adjust' the objective - not power tool only, but rigid enough for at least hand saw, chisel and plane use as well.

Can't wait to see what you come up with..:>)
Chris

Would be interesting to see their homes - differences, features, etc.
Chris

Always interested in Shop setup stuff.

Review: Traditional Projects

This anthology reminds me of one of my favorite cookbooks and video series: ‘In Julia’s Kitchen with Master Chefs’. In that series, Julia had a different chef each week do one of their signature dishes. ‘Traditional Projects’ is like that. Some of today’s best woodworking ‘chefs’ describe the featured projects, including Garrett Hack, Phil Lowe, Chris Becksvort, Mike Pekovich, Mario Rodriguez, and Chris Gouchnour – to name some. Before reading further, I suggest you visit:

http://store.taunton.com/onlinestore/item/traditional-projects-070839.html

Read About the Book, The Table of Contents, and Anatole’s Introduction. The only problem I have with ‘About’ and the ‘Intro’ is the use of the word ‘culled’. The projects are not ‘culled’ – they have been carefully selected for quality and variety.

While the projects previously appeared in the magazine, this book presents the material in a new, consistent layout and re-edit. Its not just a series of reprints of the magazine pages. However, unlike some other magazine article anthologies, all of the original material has been retained. None were ‘shortened’ to fit a space allocation.

If you are a FWW ‘on-line member’, you might be asking yourself ‘Why buy the book? I can see all this on-line’. Well, yes – you can view the original article on-line. But if you are like me, you print out the PDF anyway so you can study and mark it up before starting. Black and white in my case. With the book, you have the consistent new layout, re-edit, and everything in color. And in a book you can take with you to read in the Dentist’s waiting room..

As an ‘on-line member’ one thing I found myself doing was going to the Video section to look for video projects by the same authors. As an example, Garrett Hack has two projects in this book, ‘Building a Strong, Light Carcase’ and ‘Corner Cupboard’.

Now look on-line at Garrett’s video ‘Build a Small Tool Cabinet’. You will see Garrett hand plane the raised panels, and also use a very clever non-mitered front face frame to side rabbet joint with the edge chamfered so the end grain ‘disappears’ – techniques which can also be applied to the book project.

You can also get ideas by looking at similar project videos by different ‘chefs’, as well as articles by the same authors – such as Garrett’s ‘Huntboard’ project.

I would categorize all the projects as suitable for an ‘Intermediate’ woodworker like myself (three years experience). Nothing is overwhelming – like a Queen Ann sculpted Highboy. If you can make a table, a bookcase, or a blanket chest – you should be able to accomplish any of the projects.

Well worth the $17.95 cost.

Chris

cahudson42

Winning Exhibitors/Demonstrators at the show have now been posted at: http://www.vermontwoodfestival.org/index.php

Videos are at: http://www.vermontwoodfestival.org/index.php

And a complete list of the Design Competition winners is at: http://www.vermontwooddesigns.org/2010Winners.html

The 2011 show will be September 24 and 25th.

Worth a trip and visit to Vermont!

Chris

If you are within a few hours drive of Woodstock, VT and did not get to go this year, mark your Calendar for late September next year. A GREAT SHOW - and lots of original work.

I liked the truly original stuff by Brian Bright. Particularly his 'Stripped Cabinet' - http://www.impactfolios.com/brianbright/21612/21612-222021-large.jpg

(Website: http://www.brightstudiofurniture.com/portfolios.htm )

I thought at first the cabinet sides were either coopered or laminated. No - they were tapered strips put together using beads fitted to cove sockets. A boatbuilding technique I was unfamiliar with. Really neat.

Attendees get to 'vote' with a paper ballot for their selection of 'Best in Show' - and Brian got my vote (though I had to leave before the winner was announced).

There were also some neat 'demonstrators' as well as the exhibitors. Among these was Woodturner-Teacher Richard Montague - with his Springpole Lathe. Roy Underhill has competition..:>)

As Mark says, a great show.

Chris

LongOfTooth:

Key question: On your workbench will you be using 'benchtop' versions of stationary machines - such as perhaps the Grizzly G0505 12 1/2" planer (a Great machine for $295, IMHO)?

If so, I suggest three 20A minimum circuits. One for dust collection/shop vac. One for the benchtop stationary machine. One for hand tools (sander, router, nail gun/compressor, etc.).

Otherwise, without the large benchtop machines, two circuits, assuming you are the only one working at the bench, should do it.

I get away with a single 20A 110V service to my entire new 12 x 16 shop. Its an outbuilding about 150 feet from the main house, and when my Dad put in the 'mower shed' (maybe 8 x 10) that is next to it, he only had it wired for a single 20A line. Currently I run heavy 12ga extension cords from that, and it actually works fine. Lights, small electric heater, shop vac - and one other machine at a time..:>)

Chris

Looks like an intereting group of projects!
Chris

Asa,

You can combine the MFT precision hole top with a sacrificial MDF top.

Whenever I'm using my TS-55 with my MFT 1080s, or doing anything else that might damage or mar the top, I simply place 2 sheets of 2' by 4' 1/4" MDF on top. These are slightly trimmed to leave one row of holes on 3 sides, all except the front.

When I need 'more holes' for clamping etc. - I simply remove the 1/4" MDF.

Chris

Hi Asa,

I agree with mouppe - a lot can be learned from the Festool MFT, including all the attachments, both Festool and third party (like QWAS dogs). It is designed specifically for power tool use - and is 'the one to beat' - or at least try to equal, IMHO.

I've two MFT 1080's joined short-end to short-end with the Festool connector bars designed for the purpose. Gives a bench almost 8' long and 27" or so wide - its my primary bench in my little 12 x 16 shop.

That said, the workbench you and Matt Berger did in season 2 Beginning Woodworking might be a place to start. Keep the double-sheet MDF top - but add a hole grid like the MFT How to do this would be interesting to see - the MFT grid is very precise, can be used to assure square or various angles, as well as holding and clamping.

Add side T-rail track like the MFT - but also at the top along each edge, too. Possibly some track recessed into the top running between the holes.

I've sometimes thought of buying just the 1080 top(s) for $99, and the long MFT siderails - and making a bigger, more sturdy, MFT. But so far my double-1080 is working out just fine for both hand tool and power tool use.

Maybe also Google 'Jerry Work Festool' - and see what he has done with the MFT, too. (http://www.jerrywork.com/) Might be worth paying him a visit for his ideas as well.

Regards,
Chris

This is a great show. Well worth it if you are within a few hours of getting there.

As mentioned, it is simultaneous with the Marsh-Billings National Historic Park 'Open House Forest Weekend' - http://www.nps.gov/mabi/planyourvisit/forest-festival-weekend.htm

Shuttles run back and forth between the Union Arena and the Park.

Get to the Arena at opening - 10AM. You will be able to cover it OK in 3 hours - then leave at 1 PM for Marsh-Billings.

Chris

Hi Gina,

Two additional books I found useful when beginning, and that I still use often today, are:

Nick Engler's 'Woodworking Wisdom' ISBN 0-87596-651-9. This is a concise woodworking encyclopedia - covers a bit of almost everything. I often use it for checking typical sizing/dimensions before starting a project.

Bill Hylton's 'Illustrated Cabinetmaking. How to Design and Construct Furniture that Works' ISBN 978-1-56523-369-0. Out of print for years, used copies were selling for up to $100! Recently reprinted in softcover, this has a wealth of basic information, plus many furniture projects of all types.

Take a look at them if you haven't seen them before.

You are likely to find good used copies of these and some of your other books at abebooks.com - a central clearing house for many independent booksellers.

Chris

Hi Matt,

Nice concise video! Good advice on the cheap planes, too.

But I suggest a new user need not necessarily go as expensive as your nice LN smoother and jack..

After a number of false starts with old ebay planes etc., I ended up with an LV block and 4 1/2 BU smoother, and a full set of Woodriver V2s. Very happy with them all.

Will you be doing the reviews of the new Woodriver V3s?

Chris

Hi Matt,
What did you decide about the kitchen wall cabinets? Look like they might be solid Oak?? OK? Live with the mismatched grain and the tombstone raised panels...? Or new doors and paint? Or??

Be sure to show us, whatever you do..:>)

Chris

Wow! An $85 chair making book! Can't wait..

Rob's accident could happen to anyone, experienced or not.

One more reason I dislike using a table saw and always use an alternative when I can - bandsaw, or more often, my Festool TS-55 track saw and MFT 1080. Safe, great crosscuts, great rips, easy angle cuts.

And a complete Festool TS-55, Track(s), MFT/3, parallel guide(s), etc. is far less $$ than a Sawstop. (Its Festool $$$$$$ pricing remember..:>.

Plus you can rip an 8' board in say a 12' space. Not 16' plus..

Looks Interesting for sure!
Chris

Perhaps its been mentioned, but a case could have been made that the BTS-15 was the wrong tool for the job to begin with.

Something like the $160 (Amazon) Skil 3600-02 120-Volt Flooring Saw should have been used by the flooring contractor.

Or perhaps a more typical tracksaw - like the TS-55 and MFT that was used by Tom Silva in a recent 'This Old House' series. (Tom was shown using a TS-55 when installing stairs).

While I personally still do believe that Ryobi and the rest of the table saw manufactureres are indeed negligent by not providing 'best engineering practice' (Sawstop technology) in their products, I also believe that Osorio's employer should have been held largly responsible for the accident.

Thanks Betsy..:>)
Chris

I also vote for extinct.

We have an old Craftsman RAS in our Zellwood, FL community shop. More than once, with thick stock crosscuts, the thing wants to jump out at you. Plus it never holds square.

We now have a new Dewalt compound sliding miter saw - far more precise. But we now have to remind everyone it works on a 'push stroke' - not like the RAS 'pull'. Easy to screw up.

Myself, give me my Festool TS-55 track saw for both wide crosscuts and safe ripcuts anytime.

And for small parts, get a PROXXON miniature TS.

I was aware that Costner had 'huge' centrifuges - but not the details, except not many of them. 32. From the article epirnik referenced, it seems Costner's machines can each process approximately 10,000 GPH (if I did the math right)

A 250$ Trash Pump (ex: http://www.amazon.com/DuroMax-XP650WP-7-Horsepower-220-Gallon-Per-Minute-Gas-Powered/dp/B001BM67Y4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1277149170&sr=8-2) does 200 GPM, or roughly 12,000 GPH. I have no idea how much 'thruput' a single washing machine might provide - lets guess 1000 GPH.

So perhaps a bank of 12 washing machines @ $250/ea = $3,000.
Trash Pump $250. Add fabrication, generator(s) for the washing machines - and maybe you have what? $10,000 for each bank?

More importantly, the components are mostly already manufactured. And available by the 1000's if not 10,000's.

More of Costner's purpose built machines, which I sure hope work, will have an unfortunate manufacturing lead time to get more of them..

And what does a Costner machine cost? (though this should be seen as the least of any problem) $1M?

Meaning we might get 100 trash pump/washing machine systems for the same money - and 100x the cleaning thruput.

But as Doug (indirectly) observed, the 'this is not really a crisis' BP (and Obama unfortunately) mindset, means it would never get even a passing thought by these (non?) 'decision-makers'

Great story, Asa. And if I may say so, your liking the job and being talented at it, has resulted in the best woodworking magazine available today - FWW of course..:>)

I eagerly look forward to each new issue. And keep up the new approaches - like the upcoming 'built-in shootout'. I think we really learn by looking simultaneously at different approaches. Same with your earlier 'surface finish shootout' with Mike.

Great stuff..

Regards,
Chris

I know I'm in the minority here, but I do think - Osorio aside - that anyone using a tablesaw without 'flesh sensing technology' but with its supplied guards in place, and who suffers in injury from the blade, would have a liability case against the saw manufacturer.

Few would argue that BP is not responsible for the Gulf disaster after clearly not using 'best available engineering practice' to prevent such blowouts.

To me its the same with tablesaws. 'Best available engineering practice' in tablesaw manufacturing today would - again to me - incorporate Sawstop technology. I believe not offering it clearly, fairly, and correctly, puts manufacturers at risk for liability suits due to blade contact.

I happen to have a Ryobi BTS10 $99 tablesaw. It is what you would expect to get for $99 - terrible. I rarely use it, and then only for ripping 5/4 6" cedar decking for outdoor furniture. With the plastic guard, anti-kickback pawls, and splitter in place. Even then its extremely dangerous. In part because the lousey fence nevers clamps parallel to the blade. Even after carefully trying to clamp the fence parallel, there is almost always a slight out-of-parallel 'included angle' between the blade and the fence. So you start the rip, and partway thru the stock binds up. Whats the 'usual' reaction? 'Push Harder' - EXACTLY what you should not do. I hate the thing.

Until I can afford a Sawstop, I now almost always use my Festool TS-55 track saw and MFT 1080 for all my crosscuts and rips. I can rip or crosscut 2 pieces of 3/4" Red Oak together - 1.5" total, without any effort, while feeling in complete control and absolutely safe (angled sides of Paolini's #74 Stickley Book Rack). In fact, this works so well I may never get a Sawstop.

In conclusion, if you too dislike using a tablesaw, and also cannot afford a sawstop - consider the track saw alternate. Yes, for straight rips it may seem slower. But for crosscuts, and particularly any angled cuts - I think its actually faster than using a tablesaw.

Matt,

RE: Earlier Post - Trash Pump Centrifuges

Even crazier might be to modify ordinary washing machines 'spin cycle' to provide the centrifugal action for separation.

There are of course millions of washing machines.

Lock the machines on 'spin' - modify the input/output flow. Perhaps even combine with a trash pump feed.

The machines burn-up in a few hours? They go back for rebuild..

Chris

Hi Matt,

There is actually an EPA sitee where you can make suggestions:

https://iaspub.epa.gov/oilspill/surfacewaterhardware.do

Here was my 6/4 submission - based on our woodworking 'cyclonic dust collection systems':

"Describe the mechanical process that can be used to remove oil from seawater and/or fresh water."

We have Costner's huge centrifuges:
http://abcnews.go.com/Technology/kevin-costner-machine-bp-oil-clean/story?id=10689928

Now think Dunkirk - where thousands of little fishing boats and any tub that floated successfully evacuated over 100,000 stranded English soldiers.

Apply the same thinking with the centrifuge principle.

Commandeer every available commercial trash pump in the country. Fabricate 1000's of small scale centrifuges - using simple 55 gal or other tanks - with tangential inputs for the trash pumps - creating centrifigal flow - where the oil can be separated from the water. (This principle is used in commercial woodworking 'dust collection' all the time.)

As the oil is separated - burn it.

Comandeer every floating tub in the region to deploy the centifuges - in a continuous unbroken line (like trench warfare) - to stop the landfall of the spill.

Put the Army/National Guard callup to execute it.

"Principle of Operation"

Centrifugal removal of oil - using 1000's if not 10,000's of commercial trash pump based crude small-scale centrifuges"

Not surprisingly, I never heard anything..:>)

Chris

Looks interesting!

If I win, I will report.

Chris

Fire Photon Torpedoes! Fire! Fire!

D J Marks Full Episodes

Thanks Marckostac,

Great to watch the full episodes!

Just FYI everyone - you will need to modify Marcostac's URL with the show number - not only '210.asp', but 211.asp, 212.asp - whatever. The number list and project title is on David's website. Under 'TV' tab.

Unfortunately, David does not have DIY video links to every one. But what there is - is top rank!

You can also print out cut lists for each project. And in some cases full plans are available to be purchased from David.

Since its been a few years since WoodWorks was last run on DIY Network, possible some new FWW/Knots readers have not seen it.

As far as I know, complete streaming episodes are not available on DIY Network (others know differently?) - but segments of shows are. For example, here is the beginning segment of an Arts and Crafts Spice Rack:

http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/arts-and-crafts-spice-rack/6131.html

Put 'David Marks in the Search Bar 'Find Projects, How-tos, and Experts advice - and I get 143 of these segments.

Here is the Search result when I did this:
http://www.diynetwork.com/search/results.do?diySearchString=David+Marks&diySearchType=diynetwork.com

You can piece the segments together with a bit of browsing thru all of them.

WoodWorks is - for me - the 'standard of comparison' for Tommy's new over-the-air TV show.

The only other videos that I think are equal are FWW's own 'member' project series, Matts Garden Bench and Boxes, Garrett Hacks recent Tool Cabinet, many others..

Has a pilot been done? If so, where can we view it?

As mentioned above, 'hammer and chisel' sounds disappointing, to say the least.

Where is this show going to be positioned? Nearer 'Woodsmith Shop'? Or 'WoodWorks' (David Marks)?

IMHO, WoodWorks is the best woodworking TV series ever made - Norm included.

I have nothing against Tommy McDonald - don't know anything about him. But if WGBH might re-think - why not Marks for the new show?

West Coast the problem? Maybe we petition KQED..:>)

Just to second Mark's view - this is a great show if you want to see beautiful custom work, and chat with some of the best makers around New England. Well worth the trip.

Chris

Q&A format sounds good...

Loan out tools? Depends on the tool. Of course

Loan out my TS-55? No way. My 25-year old Skilsaw? No problem.

My Lee Vally Veritas BU Smoother? Again no way. But I do have a truly horible #4 chinese Footprint should I be asked.

My Router and Router bits? No - not at all. I forget who said loaning out your router bits is like loaning out your toothbrush..

Come to think of it, the 'toothbrush' answer should be a good one for all our tools... "My XXX is just like my toothbrush. I wouldn't loan it out - and you shouldn't want to use it..."

Interesting to see if the Confederate pieces are mostly SYP - and the North? Walnut? Cherry? or what?

Hi Roland,

Any chance that FWW could videotape one of the handplane clinics for viewing later by readers who can't attend in person?

Preferably the entire class/clinic - not just a 5 minute excerpt?

Don't woory about tight editing. I'm sure many of us enjoy stuff like this 'as it happens' - like with the recent 'live' cherry table 'finishing shootout' with Asa, Mike, and Anatole.

In fact, why not do it live, just like the shootout?

Best Regards,
Chris

Bosch used to (may still?) make an aluminum adapter for their jigsaws to do the same thing. I don't think it was sold here in the us, but I found and ordered mine from the UK couple years back.

Chris

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but for a lone woodworker trying to break down a 70 lb sheet of 3/4 ply - there is no easier solution than a Festool TS-55 and rail system and a 'sacrificial' sheet of cheap CDX. Move a 10lb saw instead of a 70lb sheet.

Don't dismiss it until you try it. The TS-55 is perhaps the one Festool actually worth its outrageous price. And you can return it in 30 days if for some reason you don't like it.

Great unbelievable edges. Here is an example: http://www.cfnet.net/yc/

(I do not work for Festool, either,,:>)

Chris

Hi Stephany,

I also have an 'outside shop' at my Adirondack camp. Little different approach - I cleaned out the junk in our 'mower shed' (mowers too - they are outside) - an 8 x 10 - and now 'roll out' my tools to the gravel driveway in front of it when I use my 'shop'..

For both space and cost I bought Hitachi benchtop bandsaw, drill press, and belt sander. They work - the bandsaw particularly is nice for bevelled backs of Adirondack chairs because the saw tilts - not the table. Also Ryobi mitersaw and 10" table saw (Home Depot), router table mounted in a workmate, Sunhill 12" planer. I wouldn't want to work 8/4 Oak with this stuff - but for Western Red Cedar and White Pine - they are fine. And my favorite - a Festool TS-55 plunge saw/guide system. Next week, I'll bring up an MFT. (The TS-55 is perhaps the one Festool worth its cost - it is really great. Here is an example of what I used it for outside: http://www.cfnet.net/yc/)

Thoughts: Can some part of the deck be enclosed on three sides with a shed roof top - and perhaps your marine fabric used as a roll down/drop down 'door'? Here the rain is really a pita - I now keep the bandsaw and the drill press in the shed and use them there undercover - the rest I roll out when I use them.

That said - the rain is the worst. I also would really like to be in the shop when it rains - and thats a lot more here in the Adirondacks than at SF.

If I can somehow find the money I am looking at possibly a 'sheds-r-us'-type prefab from Home Depot - 12 x 16. Almost 200 sf! I will be in Hog Heaven - comparatively..


Good Luck!
Chris

Asa,

I also heavily use my Festool TS-55 at my Adirondack Summer Shop, and am bringing up an MFT to there next week as well.

I do use sheet goods up there as well as the 5/4 cedar and pine - and the Festool makes it possible for one person to handle them easily. Plus - you will not believe the edge cut quality you get with that thing.


Yes, horribly overpriced - but perhaps the one Festool product that is actually worth the money paid.

A great 'benchtop tool' you might consider adding to your set.

I would think this DVD would improve anyone's woodworking skillset - just as all the videos here at the FWW website do.

One of the main reasons I signed up for full FWW site access is the videos - plus access to all the past great articles.

While that is a 'library in itself' - additional DVDs are always welcome!

The inexpensive Hitachi benchtop bandsaw is great. The saw tilts rather than the table - making it perfect for cutting stuff like the beveled top back support of an Adirondack chair.

I also have the Hitachi benchtop sander and drillpress. Plus Ryobi (Home Depot) BTS10 table saw, and Ryobi 10" miter Saw.

Finally a Sunhill 12" benchtop planer and Router mounted in a Workmate.

All At my Adirondack camp as my 'Summer Workshop'

I'm not sure I'd want to build an Oak Morris Chair with this stuff, but they all work just fine with the 5/4 Western Red Cedar decking and 1" White Pine I use for Summer projects.