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Paolini #74 Stickley Book Rack - Knock Down Version

Paolini's new video series on his variation on the #74 promises to be a great one. I've made a couple of these from his FWW May/April 2008 article. On this one, I used stub tenons and connector...

'Butler's Tray' Coffee Table and Portable Bar

This Cherry Butler's Table - while inspired by one done by Norm - was made quite differently. Norm's to me was too big. This one was reduced to 35 x 25 overall tip to tip. The stand is an entirely...

Southern Yellow Pine Outdoor Furniture

For those of us living in the Southeast, and considering some outdoor furniture, you might look at the Dimensional Southern Yellow Pine usually available in the box stores. This is an example made...

Usonian styled Plywood Chair

If you are looking for a chair for the porch, outdoors, or just something simple and casual, take a look at the furniture usually included in Frank Lloyd Wright’s  40rsquos50rsquos...

Adirondack Garden Bench

Adirondack Garden Bench Huletts Landing, NY (Lake George) This bench is a follow up to a number of more conventional Adirondack chairs. Wife found the chairs hard to get out of - as do others. So...

Recent comments

Re: UPDATE: Furniture Design & Construction by Graham Blackburn

Another hat in the ring...

Re: UPDATE: Furniture Design & Construction by Graham Blackburn

Another hat in the ring..:>)

Re: UPDATE: Making Frame and Panel Doors by Hendrik Varju

Another hat in the ring...

Re: STL 72: Another Tablesaw Lawsuit

Like Carl, I also saw Silva ripping without a fence - and couldn't believe it. I 'rewound' and played it back twice to make sure... I wrote in - as I'm sure 100's of others must have as well - not a peep/reply on either TOH or ATOH. A disgrace...

Re: STL 72: Another Tablesaw Lawsuit

Great interview Asa! Of course, we could spend Many STL's on this - but to throw out one more thought:

If you look at the 'problem' as one of 'cutting wood' rather than 'table saw safety' we can all see that there are a number of alternates to pushing wood through a hi-speed circular saw blade that is also spinning toward you.

While I have a Dewalt 345 and consider it a very good saw for the $$ (and guards - always ON) - I rarely use it. I do almost everything - rips and crosscuts - with my Festool TS-55 track saw and MFT 1080 setup - sort of like Gary Striegler a way back with the build-in build-off.

Its great for about everything except narrow rips of narrow long boards - like ripping Cedar decking down the middle for ADK chairs etc. (Which is about the only use my DW345 gets..)

For cuts not optimal on the TS-55, I often use my Bandsaw. (I believe Krenov once mentioned he always used a Bandsaw as he 'found the table saw too dangerous' )

And of course there are 'luddites' that rip manually (not for me, as the TS-55 is not only faster - but gives a cleaner and more accurate cut)

Why not collect together or produce some new video shorts showing alternates to the table saw?

As far as the TS-55, one very informative resource is Jerry Work -

He has a number of tutorials on the TS-55 and MFT:

Google his name and see a bunch more..

I really like the MFT/TS-55 setup. No need for an expensive sliding miter saw - I can easily do up to 20" crosscuts quickly and accurately. Same for rips up to about 48" - both at any angle or bevel - which operations covers a lot of furniture needs.

Keep up your great stuff!



Re: UPDATE: Making Drawers by Hendrik Varju

Another hat in the ring!

Re: STL 71: Return of the Speed Tenon

On Mike's flattening a 'too wide' board by putting the center of the convex side down on the power Jointer, consider doing the same thing - likely safer - by using a scrub plane crossgrain, with the board secured on the bench convex up, removing the hump. Then use that side down going thru the Planer. Then flip it...

Don't have a scrub plane? Make one out of an old $10-$20 beater #5. Here is example HOWTO:

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Beautiful Boxes: Design and Technique by Doug Stowe

One more hat...

Re: UPDATE: Handmade Furniture: 21 Classic Woodworking Projects to Build for Your Home by Rafael Nathan

Another hat in the ring!

Re: STL 66: SawStop Gets a Slider

RE: 'Intro Book':

One book with a little bit of everything is Nick Engler's 'Woodworking Wisdom' - ISBN 0-87596-651-9, Copies can usually be found used for a few dollars at:

Re: Centering the Festool Domino on Imperial Based Materials

Well, I have used a TS-55 for years and have had no problems with the metric scale on it. You get used to it.

I suggest we all do the same for any metric tool.

Here in the U.S. we are luddites to continue with the 'Imperial' (who's toe was it?) system.

Our politicians - as usual - have no guts to change.

So like Jerry Work - we ourselves need to lead the change. How about FWW changing over to metric as the primary measurement, with Imperial as the secondary?

Lets ditch once-and-for-all 1/128 1/64 1/32 1/16 1/8 etc. Arghhh!

Re: UPDATE: Acts of Creation: America's Finest Hand Craftsmen at Work by Walt Harrington

another hat in the ring!

Re: UPDATE: Acts of Creation: America's Finest Hand Craftsmen at Work by Walt Harrington

Another hat in the ring!

Re: UPDATE: Fine Woodworking's Tables and Chairs

Another hat in the ring...

Re: Router Accident is a Great Lesson in Climb Cutting

Its a more common error than you might think when using the router table to make a groove (or a slot - say for a router template guide) wider than the bit being used.

Simply stated - you MUST cut the first pass closest to the fence, then move the fence back for the second cut. Always. And to avoid a climb cut, in both cases, move the workpiece in the 'usual' manner - to the left, so the spinning bit cuts into the workpiece.

Doing it the other way results in the workpiece essentially being trapped between the bit and the Fence - a big NONO. You have created a 'baseball throwing machine' - and the piece will violently move to the left - potentially taking your fingers/hand with it.

Easy way to remember on the second cut - the bit is cutting 'closest to you' standing in front. Or think of it as if there were an 'invisible fence' sitting thru or behind the bit - which essentially there is (being provided further back by the workpiece riding against the 'real' fence.).

This is worth a Video Tips episode. Good example - using a 1/2" bit to make a 3/4" slot in 1/2' MDF for a 3/4" router guide bushing template.

Re: UPDATE: Outdoor Wood Projects by Steve Cory

Another hat in the ring!

Re: Do you mix your own finishes?

For a high gloss finish on a cherry Butler's Table with a hand-planed final surface, I used 'pulled lacquer' - something not mentioned often here in the US, but used more in the UK apparently.

See Sean Clarke's fascinating (to me anyway) video on "Use Pullover for a Hand-Rubbed Lacquer Finish'

The Mylands Pullover Solvent is not easy to find. But a reasonable facsimile can be mixed up using 60% ethanol and 40% lacquer thinner.

If you research articles on the technique from the UK or Australia most likely - be aware the term 'meths' is NOT referring to methyl alcohol - it means ethanol - ethyl alcohol.

There are also some additional posts in Knots - search for 'lacquer pullover'

As with the Hack wiping Varnish, I will usually use a 1:1 Sealcoat shellac wash first - also applied with a 'rubber' - just like Steve Latta showed in his most recent Federal Table episode...

Re: Do you mix your own finishes?

For my cherry hardwood furniture, I use Garrett Hack's 3-part wipe-on (search for FWW article): 1 part Tung Oil, 1 part Turpentine, 1 part Spar varnish.

For the varnish, I use an old-fashioned phenolic-based resin Spar Varnish - Cabot, or Ace usually, as I like the slight darkening it provides.

I do not - ever - use Mineral Spirits instead of Turpentine. Always Turpentine. It seems to penetrate better, and buff up better. Tung oil for hardness and water resistance.

If the cherry looks like it might blotch, I first use a 1:1 Zinsser Seal Coat shellac wash - padded on.

Re: STL 58: Is Woodworking an Art

Hi Mike, Thanks for the informative info on your Japanese chisels. Particularly useful - that initially to expect poor edge durability, until you get it ground down a bit.

I remember some old Knots posts complaining about 'poor quality Japanese chisels' that never had the initial edge durability question answered... Now it is.. Thanks again!

Now I'll be trying one or two..


Re: UPDATE: A Lesson Plan for Wood Turning by James Rodgers

Another hat in the ring!

Re: Shining a Light on Student Furniture

Great chair!

To me it also shows how much we can all learn from those who went before...

Anyone else see a little bit of Hans Wegner in there.. made Mollie's own way..

Re: Nakashima-style dining table

Hey Asa,

Did I miss the FWW article or video workshop on this?? :>)

Definitely worth both!

Re: UPDATE: Blanket Chests by Scott Gibson and Peter Turner

Another hat in the ring...

Re: UPDATE: Honing and Setting Jointer and Planer Knives by Hendrik Varju

Another hat in the ring...

Re: UPDATE: The Unplugged Woodshop: Handcrafted Projects for the Home & Workshop by Tom Fidgen

Another hat in the ring..:>)

Re: Shop Talk Live 31: Ditch That Miter Saw for a Tablesaw

'Ditch the miter'..

Mike's description of how the blade meets the wood in a simple chop saw vs. a sliding miter saw is key. Chop saw - lots of teeth bearing into the wood at once. Sliding miter - only the blade front teeth; more like the tablesaw. Score 1 for the sliding miter.

I would like to add: For a simple chop saw - watch the blades hook angle!

I found out the hard way - fortunately without injury. I installed a Diablo D1040A on my inexpensive Ryobi chop saw. Had a picture of a miter saw on the front of the blade. Said it was OK for a miter saw. It is not!

The hook angle on this 40-tooth ATB blade is 15 degrees. Meaning, as the blade enters the wood - it will Pull Up on the wood. NG! (vs. Down on a tablesaw - OK). I was cutting a piece smaller than I probably should have. The blade hit the wood as I brought the simple chop saw down into it. Bang! The piece was pulled up into the blade, jamming the saw and bending the blade - and ruining the piece.

So - ALWAYS make sure the blade in your chop saw has a negative hook angle (typically -5 degrees) or less than 7 degrees positive so it pushes down, or not pulls up excessively.

I now have a DeWalt 60-tooth DW3106 installed. ATB. 5-degree hook. No problems so far.

After I win the lottery, I will replace it with a DW3219PT - 80-tooth TCG with a -5 hook. Should last forever and never give me a 'pull up' problem ever again.

Re: UPDATE: In the Greene & Greene Style: Projects and Details for the Woodworker by Darrell Peart

Another hat in the ring!

Re: Paolini bookcase

Very nice! It looks like you may have opened up the distance between shelves? If so, what are your dimensions?

Or did you follow the original Paolini dimensions?

Re: Announcing the FWW Live Buildoff

Thanks Asa,

Understood. Makes sense. One 'last' thought:

I didn't see any detailed 'rules' over at the FWWL website.

Example: Will participants be allowed to bring their own carry-in toolbox of misc. stuff like a Kreg pockethole mini-jig, clamps, hardware, framing nailer (and compressor), etc.? Or not?

Best to spell out all this with rules in advance. OK?

Looks like great fun. Hope to be there and participate!

Re: Trestle Cradle

An article on this exact cradle can be found in Home Furniture magazine, July 1997. However, as was a typical deficiency of HF, no drawings are provided.

Re: Announcing the FWW Live Buildoff

Great idea, Asa.

As to type, may I suggest 'outdoor furniture'?

Plus, announcing the build category in advance will give you more variety and better-thought-out entries. Why not?

Re: UPDATE: Win an all-access pass to Fine Woodworking Live 2013!

Another hat in the ring..:>)

Re: Shop Talk Live 30: Super-Smooth Handplane Tips

Hey Mike,

Re: Comment on BU weights: Try to borrow/try the Veritas 05P36.xx 164-1/2H BU Smoother as a final finisher. At almost 5lb, set for ultra-thin shavings, and with the stock 38-degree blade (50-degree cutting angle) it is my 'go to' plane for final finishing (mostly cherry, maple, and walnut).

Before that, I will use regular bevel-down Bedrock-style - usually a 5 followed by a 4.

But for the very final pass or two - nothing beats the 05P36 IMO.

Re: UPDATE: Best Workshops from the editors of Fine Woodworking

Another Hat in the ring...

Re: John Cameron's Massachusetts Ming

Beautiful.. Simply Beautiful.. Great Clip!

A Video Workshop - Please!

Re: UPDATE: Best Workshops from the editors of Fine Woodworking

Another Hat in the ring..:>)

Re: A Basic Bench That's Quick To Make

Evanism: Great Technique on boring the grid! May I ask where you found a 20mm plunge bit with the top-guided bearing? Make and P/N if possible? Thanks!

Re: A Basic Bench That's Quick To Make

Nice basic bench. Practical. Cost-effective.

In my small shop I use a pair of Festool MFT1080 MultiFunctionTables (MFTs - 25" x 43") connected end to end. Rigid enough for hand planing. The grid of 20mm holes is really useful for holdowns, clamping, etc.

Unfortunately, the MFT1080s are no longer available. But replacements tops still are. At $115 including shipping, I bough one to make it the top of a table otherwise like yours.

While $115 may seem expensive, try accurately boring a grid of 20mm holes on 96mm centers in 3/4 MDF. I have for a table for our retirement community shop - - its a pita. Plus the MFT material seems denser and more water resistant than garden-variety MDF. And the single-thickness has proven sufficient the last several years on my original 1080s. Still dead flat.

Re: Shop Talk Live 27: Million Dollar Woodworker

Instead of an apron, get to your nearest Tractor Supply and pick up a pair of Liberty washed denim bib overalls. Best ones out there...

No belts, no suspenders. Nice zippered pocket in front for pencils, small square, cellphone, etc. Big pockets all around if you need them.

I always turn mine into Cutoffs as I don't like the baggy legs - except for Winter.. Use the denim for a pullover rubber, tool roll, etc.

Re: UPDATE:French Polishing: Finishing and restoring using traditional techniques by Derek Jones

Another hat in the ring..:>)

Re: Shop Talk Live 25: Time for a New Monster Workbench?

For a really great cherry finish, I have found nothing that beats Garrett Hack's 'Oil Varnish Mixture' - FWW Jan/Feb 1997. Nothing. Used it for years.


1. Always use 1/3 old-fashioned phenolic-based Spar Varnish. The inexpensive ACE stuff works great. As does Cabot (if you can find it - they continue ruining all their products by converting to water-based)

2. Always use 1/3 Tung Oil (Woodcraft is fine) - NOT Linseed

3. Always use 1/3 Turpentine - not Paint Thinner or mineral spirits. Makes a major difference, surprisingly

Re: Shop Talk Live 24: Wicked Weapon for Terrific Tenons

Liven it up when regulars are out of commission - by using Skype or Google Hangout to bring in out-of-town FWW contributors - Rollie Johnson, Garett Hack, Steve Latta, etc into the conversation.

Re: UPDATE: The Foundations of Better Woodworking by Jeff Miller

Another hat in the ring!

Re: Shop Talk Live 22: Handplane How-To

There is at least one other alternate to cross-cutting with an SCMS or sled - and that is the Festool TS-55 Track Saw and Rail.

Essentially any width - and any angle. Great finish top and bottom (assuming bottom is supported on a sacrificial sheet of insulation or CDX ply.)

Combine it with the MFT and its fence and miter gauge, and setup is easy - at least for me.

Why not revisit and discuss next ShopTalk Live?

Keep up the great shows!

P.S. - I use a non-sliding 10" chop saw ($99 Ryobi) for crosscuts up to 5 1/2". A simple machine - just pivots. No 'sloppy rails' whatever. Works great. Precise. Everything wider I use the TS-55.

Re: Faking a Ship-Lapped Cabinet Back

Forgot to mention that you can also 'lightly' skip-plane the rough-sawn T1-11 surface if you want it smooth. Its not a 1/40 veneer, thankfully.

Re: Faking a Ship-Lapped Cabinet Back


You can pretty much do the same thing with rough-sawn T1-11 siding.

Comes 3/8 or 5/8. One surface is usually blemish-free D Fir, the back is crap - but it is in the back.

Meant to mimick 'board and batten' - but looks good on a cabinet back as well.

Plus its plywood so you can glue it in solid w/o worries on movement.

There is also an 'ungrooved' version used for soffits. Forget its nomenclature. That you can grove as you see fit.

Re: The hobbit cupboard completed

Hey Mike,

When do we see the video workshop on this?


Re: Robert Erickson's Chairs: Angle of Repose

Beautiful chairs - for sure!

The Adirondack's appear to be at least somewhat influenced by the original Adirondack - the Westport of the early 1900's. Much improved - wth the curved back!

The Adirondack Museum has the original Westport plan available for $15:

for anyone who might like the original dimensions for their own 'point of departure'.

Frank Lloyd Wright also based his outdoor chairs at Yemassee Plantation on the Westport...

Re: Gets a Makeover

Ed: Looks Great.. Finally. the annoying 'bar' at the bottom is gone!

Question: Is hosting service/facilities the same? I 'may' be seeing very slow page loads during the day - here at 3 AM no problem..

Re: Fine Woodworking on a prime time sitcom!

Asa's musical:

'Woodworkers of 1933'

Now to appreciate that you need to watch 'Gold Diggers of 1933' with Ruby Keeler and Dick Powell.

Asa reprises Powell - except rather than acting/singing/composing/playing piano - is woodworking.

Matt reprises Ruby.

Re: UPDATE: Rough Cut - Woodworking with Tommy Mac by Tommy MacDonald and Laurie Donnelly

Another hat in the ring! Thanks!

Re: UPDATE: Hand Planing Techniques by Hendrik Varju

Another hat in the ring.. Thanks!

Re: Shop Talk Live 17: Behind-the-Scenes at Lee Valley Tools

Woodenwork/ Ed P:

Do both - video and audio.

Re: Shop Talk Live 17: Behind-the-Scenes at Lee Valley Tools

Shop Stumper - its a SawStop Saw safety fire - stopping the blade cold..

Either that, or a BAD kickback hitting the wall..:>)

Great Special Show BTW. More special guests in future!

Re: Tablesaw Safety Around the Clock

Perhaps bring some facts into this discussion?

Supposedly there are about 36,000 table saw accidents annually. Somewhere there may be an unbiased analysis and breakdown - amputations vs. kickbacks, etc. (I seem to remember the PTI did one - but while I would read it - I would also expect it to be as biased/inaccurate as any Gass might cite.. for their own similar reasons..)

For example, kickbacks. We know the use of a riving knife (and proper use - no crosscuts against the fence, etc.) will reduce that. By how much?

Then categorize the amputations... attempting to assess actual costs in the ER etc. (w/o allowances for personal 'loss of use'..)

We then start to get a handle of the total cost of mandating Sawstop vs. the cost of the accidents.

Any one suggest some URLS?


PS - personally, I try to use my Festool TS-55 for everything I can. About the only thing its not very good on is consistent repeatable long thin rips - then I use - horrors - a cheap Ryobi RTS-10 $130 saw. Surprisingly, its safety features - IMHO - are miles ahead of those on the old BTS-10 I used to have. The riving knife seems great. The split plastic guard is great. The pawls - I use them too. A good thin Freud blade... The worst is the fence always wants to lock down out of square with the blade. So I keep sample square 12" rips of the widths I usually use, and only lock it down with the sample flush to the blade and fence.

With all the safety features in place- all the time - I'm comfortable using it - for long rips only. So I conclude using a saw in this way - without sawstop - is not foolish.

Re: UPDATE: Routers & Router Tables from the editors of Fine Woodworking

Another hat in the ring! Thanks!

Re: Silas Kopf: Majoring in Marquetry

If you enjoyed this, you might also like to see the work of Matthew Werner:

Re: Shop Talk Live 16: A Lethal Dose of PEG?

Even with the chit-chat, this was one of the best yet.

Us Mere Mortals can see in the planer/banana episodes of Mike and Matt, that even the Gods can screwup..:>)

I seem to remember being taught to ignore the planer depth gauge, and simply lightly screw down on to the board face itself - partially inserted (planer off obviously) - then back off, and slowly come down again while the machine is running. Yes, a bit of time is 'wasted' with no-cut passes, but I have never tried to take off 1/4 inch by mistake...

Re: Inside the Shaker Workshop

Great report, Matt!

I was fortunate to live only 20 miles or so from Hancock Shaker Village for 2 years, and always enjoyed my visits there. There is something for everyone besides us woodworkers - the Round Barn and animals for the kids etc.

Pittsfield is really an easy shot from anywhere in lower New England. And Fall is a great time for a visit.

Keep in mind it does close for the Winter at the end of October..

Re: Help me choose what to build for a video workshop

Another vote for option 1.

Less of a dust collector. More of an opportunity to showcase some nice veneer or solid wood on the doors and drawer fronts. Even an opportunity for a bit of marquetry in them..

Interesting to see Matt do marquetry on the bow fronts...

Hopefully the veneering will be Latta style - hide glue and a veneer hammer..

Re: Shop Talk Live 15: Curvy Cabinet Conundrum

For Matt's new video series, I vote for the vertical design..:>) Less of a dust collector. More of an opportunity to showcase some nice veneer or solid wood on the doors and drawer fronts. Even an opportunity for a bit of marquetry in them..

Re: UPDATE: Refinishing Furniture Made Simple (with DVD) by Jeff Jewitt

Another hat in the ring! Thanks!

Re: Shop Talk Live 12: Special Guest Nick Offerman

Ed (anyone?)

I have a new Android 4.0 ICS tablet - but can't seem to find Shoptalk Live no matter how I search.

My podcast viewer is DoubleTwist

How do I subscribe to STL?

Thanks for any help...

Re: Shop Talk Live 12: Special Guest Nick Offerman

13 is up!

Re: Shop Talk Live 12: Special Guest Nick Offerman

It may surprise, but Van Dyke Restorers has the Acorn line of black iron H-hinges, latches, butterfly hinges, etc. Some are expensive - but others - if you dig for them - are more reasonable.

I bought H-hinges and a couple latches for a version of Mike P's Chimney cupboard - quite nice for the $$. Come with black screws, too.

Re: Shop Talk Live 12: Special Guest Nick Offerman

Its here:

Re: Shop Talk Live 11: That Sinking Feeling

Its here!

Re: Shop Talk Live 11: That Sinking Feeling

Its here!

Re: Shop Talk Live 12: Special Guest Nick Offerman

jcwnr: Looks like its been posted to iTunes. But to access it, it says I need to install iTunes 80MB bloatware for W7 64-bit. Trying that gets message that its going to mess with my OUTLOOK somehow. Killed installer then and there.

Hopefully direct link will be posted later today...

Ed.. its great you post on iTunes for those that use it - but there are at least some (one?) of us that won't 'touch it with a 10' pole' - so please keep up the FWW direct links!

Re: Shop Talk Live 12: Special Guest Nick Offerman

Its 8:00PM EDST Sunday 8/5 - and no link that I can find to ST 12.


Re: UPDATE: Making a Welsh Stick Chair with Hugh Roberts

Another hat in the ring! Thanks..

Re: Shop Talk Live 11: That Sinking Feeling

Traditional vs. Functional

This was another great discussion.

In my case, I have VERY few shop hours to make stuff - only for the family. (As my daughter observed: 'Thank God you never tried to make a living on woodworking, we would have starved'..

So I look at Mike P's great chimney cupboard. But rather than dovetails for the subtop - I will use biscuits. IMHO - just as good.

I will use biscuits again to line up the face frame..

And - God forgive me - plywood for the back.

But I will also use sliding dovetails for the bottom and shelves - rather than dadoes since I have developed an easy technique to do them. Advantage - forces out any cup if done right.

So my process approach is - always what functions - not traditional.

Lets have more on that!

Re: Shop Talk Live 11: That Sinking Feeling

Another great podcast!

May I add something on 'scary sharp' which I use and seem to get great plane shavings?

1. NEVER use any adhesive. Instead, as long as you are using a honing guide like the Veritas Mk II - simply wet both the back of the sandpaper - as well as the front - with baby oil. The surface tension will keep it stuck to the granite - flat. 1/3 sheet. A finger maybe will keep it from sliding around.

2. Use a microbevel. This means, on the final 2000-grit pass (the highest 'normally available' wet-dry) little needs to be removed. A couple swipes, you are done.

3. Use the 'ruler trick' at the end (assuming you don't want a back bevel) on the 2000 - sideways, one swipe.

I do remember a course I took some years ago where the instructor emphasized waterstones. I used scary sharp instead. Everyone else was still working flattening their stones, whatever. I was busy planing - and had better, thinner shavings than all of them.

I might concede that expert waterstone sharpening is superior - but scary sharp is consistent, easy, repeatable and far less finicky.

If you don't think 2000 is fine enough, try some diamond paste rubbed on a strip of a Staples-like mylar sheet protector. Again, baby oil the underside to have it stick to the granite. While I do think this is an improvement, I rarely bother with it anymore.

Keep the podcasts coming!

Re: UPDATE: Arts & Crafts Style Coffee Table with Gregory Paolini

Another hat in the ring, please. Thanks!

Re: Shop Talk Live 10: Handplanes for a Desert Island

Ed and Mike,

Thanks for the great discussion on my water-based finishes question!

May I add a bit?

I think we need to distinguish between 'low VOC' and 'water based'.

My 'bug-up' about water-based is that - to get the actual finish to suspend in water - 'surfactants' (soaps) are needed to suspend the polymer. This causes major durability problems. Water hits the surface - the soaps do their job - the finish dissolves.

This is 'good' in an exterior acrylic water-based latex house paint. Keeps it looking clean, until the paint is totally washed away.

It is disasterous in a fine furniture finish.

Suggestion: When you look at a water-based finish supposedly sold for 'fine furniture' - look to see what is in it. Water-based products sold as 'laquer'. 'varnish' etc. often contain not laquer or varnish - but acrylics. Soft, latex house paint. Avoid them like the plague.

And acrylics are SOFT. Try your fingernail on them.

In short, water-based 'fine furniture' acrylic finishes are - IMHO - total junk. All of them.

The Polymerized Tung Oil low VOC finish used by Tim is, from what I understand it, a solvent based finish. Low VOC. but like turpentine, the citrus-solvent appears not to be water but plant based turpentine-like solvent. Looks neat to me! (But for $50/quart!)

I use Garrett Hacks formula: 1/3 varnish (phenolic based, Cabot, ACE, etc. (Watch Cabot! They are destroying their finishes across the board by going water-based.), 1/3 tung oil (Woodcraft), 1/3 turpentine.

And yes - I see a difference between Turpentine and Mineral Spirits. Use turpentine.

Stock up while you can.


Re: Freeze your beetles

Most surface treatments, unless they are glycol-based, heavily applied and soak in, will only kill the beetles as they emerge. But they will also prevent new eggs laid on the treated surface from hatching and burrowing in - and kill them.

Remember, when you see the holes and sawdust - the beetles are gone. They are emerging - not burrowing in as many think.
They burrow in only when they are tiny, tiny larvae. A year or more later, after metamorphosis, they emerge as beetles and fly off.

KNOTS does have a couple threads on homemade borax treatments etc.

Re: UPDATE: Making Wood Tools with John Wilson

It is an interesting book - saw it at a show. But thought it a bit of a ripoff at $40.

Highland Woodworking has it for $30 with 'free shipping' ($75-up) until 7/4. Still overpriced. May buy - but likely will wait until its remaindered at $20 or less..

Re: Win an all-access pass to Fine Woodworking Live!

Another Hat in the ring...


Re: UPDATE: Making Wood Tools with John Wilson

Another hat in the ring!

Re: Last-Minute Gifts for Woodworking Dads

Great Lee Valley suggestions from the editors!

Here is another:

Batoning Chisel,41504

Beautifully made. Rugged. $16.50. Get both the Left and Right versions for $33 - with Free Shipping until 6/18 (you will need to add something for yourself to hit $40 min for free shipping)

Re: Nakashima-style dining table

Actually, its worth a video workshop as well!

Re: Nakashima-style dining table

Asa, this definitely is worth an article in FWW. Beautiful.

Re: UPDATE: Practical Furniture Design from Fine Woodworking

Another hat in the ring..

Re: Shop Talk Live 7: Mike Gets Crickets

Thanks for publishing #7 video Friday the day of the podcast!

It always was annoying and seemingly unnecessary to have to wait to the following Monday to have it posted.

As far as keeping the 'ship' going - maybe emphasize these posta and or emails.

I will NEVER sign up for Facebook - nor iTunes. Sorry.

Re: UPDATE: Dovetail Techniques with Stephen Hammer

Another hat into the ring..:>)

Re: Shaker chimney cupboard questions?


What a great piece and video. Thank you!

And what beautiful cherry! Mine seems always half sapwood and 5" wide. Where did you get it?

Finally, I see you used Titebond II - not III. Reason?


Re: UPDATE: Google SketchUp Guide for Woodworkers - The Basics with Dave Richards

One more hat in the ring!

Re: Shop Talk Live 4: Dueling Cabinets

Best Shop Talk ever!

Keep 'em coming!

Re: UPDATE: Windsor Chairmaking by James Mursell

Another hat in the ring..

Re: Shop Talk Live: Episode 2

Mike: How about an FWW article - or even better a video project - on your Arts and Crafts Table Lamp? Or did I miss it somewhere?

Or at least a 'quickie' on making the shade..

Re: Shop Talk Live 1: The Big Debut

For Mike..
Thanks reply, Mike. My 4 1/2 is the Veritas bevel-up smoother. I always buy the 25-degree blades, and then micro-bevel to whatever I want (not a back bevel). That way little metal needs removed, and its much easier to slightly camber. I set to the thinnest possible shavings for the final pass, so 60 is not hard to push. I've used it a lot on cherry where it works beautifully, but was asking my question partly because I haven't tried it yet on white Oak with medullary rays.

Unfortunately, my main (and only) shop is 3-season (Adirondacks) - and I won't reopen until early April. So won't be able to try the Oak until then.

Maybe we can have an Update for Shop Talk Live #2 from you - or others - on 60, or even 62?

Re: Shop Talk Live 1: The Big Debut

Suggestion: For future Shop Talk Lives - let the participants see the questions in advance.

That way, any questions or ambiguities can get resolved beforehand - and advance thought given to a tight answer.

For example, on my question on resolving scratch patterns, my bevel-up smoother has a microbevel giving an effective 60 degrees - not the usual low angle 37. And I think Mike's answer assumed it was likely 37.

Keep them coming! A great addition.

Re: Stephen Colbert Takes the Sizzle Out of SawStop

Would you buy a car today without airbags? Not if you have a functioning brain.

SawStop is the airbag of table saws. I'll wait to buy a tablesaw until I can afford one with SawStop and/or others provide it or an equal.

How could I ever let my kid use a saw without it?

Meantime, its my bandsaw and TS-55 tracksaw.

Re: Fine Woodworking Live Event

While I hope I can attend, I also hope that arrangements will be made to videotape the entire event and all the sessions. That way Members who are not able to physically be there can still enjoy the event afterward.

The videos need not be tightly edited as your great 'Project' series are. Live - as is - like the Asa-Mike 'shootout', and the Asa interview with editors (Hack, Rogowski etc.) will do just fine...

Re: Building a Cherry TV Cabinet with Hand Tools - Part I

Hi Jay,

Neat project! And what sweet planing sound!

I believe I read you sanded the panels, then hand planed.

Of course, we have all read in FWW 50 times you never do this or your 'blade will be instantly dulled' :>)

To keep the edge on the planes, did you do anything to try to remove any sanding residue? Or, is the old advice - like so much stuff - simply an 'old wive's tale'?


Re: UPDATE: DVD Giveaway: Fine Woodworking 2011 Annual Collection

Add me into the hat!

Re: UPDATE: Fine Woodstrip Canoe Building from Bear Mountain Boats

One more into the hat!

Re: UPDATE: 2011 Fine Woodworking Archive DVD-ROM (1975 - 2011)

Maybe this time...:>)

Re: UPDATE: Using Your Router and Router Table Safely by Hendrik Varju

Maybe this time...:>)

Re: UPDATE: Building Small Cabinets by Doug Stowe

Sounds Great! And watch his FWW series on box making if you haven't seen it..

Re: UPDATE: 2011 Fine Woodworking Archive DVD-ROM (1975 - 2011)

Put my name in the hat! Thanks..

Re: UPDATE: Building Small Cabinets by Doug Stowe

One more into the hat! Thanks!

Re: David Charlesworth needs our help


With all due respect, Taunton has certainly profited from David's many articles and contributions over the years.

May I ask just what Taunton has contributed? (No need to say the amount - just that something was sent)

Sorry to be so callous, but in these Tea Party days of 'everyone for himself' - except when it comes to Banksters and Wall Street bailouts - 'times are tough'. Until my SS comes in 10/26, I count approximately $234 to get there.


Re: Transform Reclaimed Cedar Siding into Beautiful Cabinet Panels

Nice recycling job, John.

For the rest of us who don't have access to old WRC clapboards, you might consider using standard WRC decking - 5/4 by 6" (5 1/2" actual). Yes, you can buy clapboards - but the ones I've seen are all beveled - and cost as much per sf.

John looks to have clear WRC boards - this stuff new does cost a fortune. But I find the knotty stuff to be just fine - and a lot less - about $1 lf as I remember. I buy 16' lengths as they seem to be clearer.

I've used a bunch for outdoor stuff - Garden Benches, Adirondack Chairs, etc. and not panels. But for panels I think I'd resaw in half. When finished planing, I would think we would have close to 1/2". A little less perhaps, but enough.

Re: Appeals court upholds Osorio tablesaw verdict: Feds consider landmark safety standard

Many, many years ago as a young engineer involved in minicomputer machine tool control, I was taught that I was responsible to use 'best available practice' in whatever I designed.

If I did not use 'best available practice', then our company would be liable for damages should anyone be injured. If I did use 'best available practice', then if an injury happened, we had a defense. We used 'best available practice' - nothing more could have been expected.

Clearly, the SawStop blade sensing technology is without question the 'best available practice' when it comes to table saw design for avoiding amputations and any blade-contact injury.

Saw manufactures who adopt it should not face any damage suits because of blade contact. While those who do not, should expect them. Justifiably..

Re: UPDATE: Building Doors & Drawers by Andy Rae

Add my name into the hat...Thanks!

Re: UPDATE: Using and Tuning Your Bandsaw by Hendrik Varju

Looks great - add me into the hat, too!

Re: UPDATE: Using and Tuning Your Bandsaw by Hendrik Varju

Looks great - add me into the hat, too!

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: 4 "issues" of The Missing Shop Manual series

Look interesting.. Put my name in the hat..:>)

Re: Router Injury Sparks Reflection on Safety

Hi Matt,

Glad you came through OK!

I'm reminded of my own 'near accidents' when routing the edge on a 'butterfly' wall key holder. Its about 5" square, with the complex curves of a butterfly. I would try holding the workpiece with my hands, and route on the router table. No matter how close to the final line I had bandsawed, the piece would always grab. I stopped making them.

Then I saw a trick somewhere - forget where. Fasten the butterfly template securely to a vertical wood post (2 x4). Fasten the workpiece on top of that with screws/brads from the bottom. Clamp the post vertically in your bench vise. Proceed to route with a hand-held router on top (two hands holding it?) with flush-trim bit.

Hands are now completely away from the bit.

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Hand Planes in the Modern Shop by Kerry Pierce

Throw my hat in..:>)

Re: Getting Started In Woodworking Season Three: Build a Walnut Nightstand

Hi Asa,

As always, under your leadership, FWW has had the best woodworking videos on the web. This looks like another winner!

One suggestion? Rather than 'dribble out' episode by episode over weeks, how about posting them all at once? We know they are already 'in the can' - so why not? Like the recent Trestle Table - where I was really pleased I could watch the entire series - and rewatch it - at one time.

Put more ads in if you must - but please do post all at one time, OK?


Re: Lamello's Zeta is a Knockout Tool for Knock-Down Furniture

Tage Frid had a clever and cheap solution to knockdown - in his book 'Teaches Woodworking'.

He took a dowel, maybe 5/8 - 1/2 or so by 1". Drilled it out with a 1/4 hole. Tapped a 3/16 T-nut in one end. Drilled a dowel matching hole in one edge. Glued the T-nut/dowel in that.
3/16 bolt in to that through the other piece.

Nice knockdown joint - if a bit of work. Beats $1400!

Re: Lamello's Zeta is a Knockout Tool for Knock-Down Furniture

Neat - but $1,400 will buy a lot of 1/4-20 steel barrel nuts and connector bolts at McFeely's...:>)

Re: We're Giving Away Grooving Planes!

See in back? They ship-lap too!

Re: Video: How to Flatten Wide Boards

Great Gina!

Keep bringing us more like this. Another reason is tops in my view..:>)

And almost forgot - your extra effort to give us additional references. Thanks again!

FWIW - almost any old beater #3/#4 can be a scrub plane with a highly cambered blade.

Save those $$ for the final smoother - my favorite - the LV '164 1/2' bevel up - about $220 and well worth it!

Re: Winner Announced: Help Crown a Dovetail King!

FWW has a great number of Dovetail tips, but here are two others where they weren't listed as such, and not as easy to find. Two streaming videos:

Above is a Roy Underhill Woodwrights Shop from 2008-2009 - the 1st part of a Joiner's Toolchest. Its essentially a complete lesson in handmade through dovetails. Some neat transfer marking tricks using the tail saw kerfs you may not have seen before.

A David Marks WoodWorks show - another tool cabinet - this time in Walnut. While the dovetails are 'handmade' - no jig is used - David uses a bandsaw with a stop, spacers, and tilts as necessary to make the saw cuts. If you aren't that great with a dovetail saw, you might take a look.

Re: Winner Chosen for Tablesaw Safety Tip Challenge

My #1 tablesaw safety tip:

Throw it out.

Use a tracksaw - like the Festool TS-55, and for narrow rips - a good bandsaw and fence.

Re: Can you wipe on a water-based finish?

I suggest you test the durability - particularly the water resistance - of this new stuff.

IMHO - all water-based 'finishes' for fine furniture can never equal the results of equivalent solvent-based - and I never, ever, would ruin anything I make by using them. The reason is simple: 'oil and water don't mix'.

To get them to mix, rather to get the resin to emulsify in the water carrier, manufacturer add 'surfactants' - soaps. Even if the finish cross-links when drying, these surfactants are still there. Waiting to 'do their job' - and dissolve the finish the minute water hits it.

Also, check the composition - sometimes the MSDS will tell you something - like the resin is acrylic - rather than a real urethane, phenolic, or alkyd true varnish. That is - it is soft and gummy.

Water-based latex house paint makes sense. Water-based furniture finishes do not. Their continued promotion does a disservice to all involved in making fine furniture.

Re: Does MDF Belong in Fine Furniture?

Whats next? Dove-tailed MDF? Mortise and tenon MDF? Hand planed MDF? Stained MDF? Carved MDF? Inlaid MDF?

Templates, patterns, work table tops, sacrificial backers, jigs - thats it.

Re: Help us design a workbench for power-tool lovers


Hmmm. So many possibilities... How about doing a 'build off' at your FWW shop? Sorta like the 'mudroom' built-ins a couple issues ago?

But more than two - how about three, or four?

Each 'contestant' gets this thread to read for background. (But editing/distilling it would be better..).

Then they go to work. A week? Two weeks? FWW foots the bill for materials and supplies.

Then each design is presented - and FWW members get to vote!

The winner gets a nice new Grizzly Bandsaw or something of similar value.

Why not?

Re: Help us design a workbench for power-tool lovers


With all the great suggestions, it seems the bench design really needs a Festool-like 'systems approach' based on modularity and interchangeability. Interchangeable tops (i.e. Festool MFT1080 plate, or traditional hardwood, or torsion box, or sacrificial MDF, a combo of some sort, or?). Perhaps a couple interchangeable base designs - trestle, or 'box' like your 'Beginning Woodworking' video example, or a kitchen cabinet, or?

I would also ask that you slightly 'adjust' the objective - not power tool only, but rigid enough for at least hand saw, chisel and plane use as well.

Can't wait to see what you come up with..:>)

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Esherick, Maloof, Nakashima: Homes of the Master Wood Artisans by Tina Skinner

Would be interesting to see their homes - differences, features, etc.

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Back to Basics: Setting Up Your Workshop from Fox Chapel Publishing

Always interested in Shop setup stuff.

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Traditional Projects from the New Best of Fine Woodworking

Review: Traditional Projects

This anthology reminds me of one of my favorite cookbooks and video series: ‘In Julia’s Kitchen with Master Chefs’. In that series, Julia had a different chef each week do one of their signature dishes. ‘Traditional Projects’ is like that. Some of today’s best woodworking ‘chefs’ describe the featured projects, including Garrett Hack, Phil Lowe, Chris Becksvort, Mike Pekovich, Mario Rodriguez, and Chris Gouchnour – to name some. Before reading further, I suggest you visit:

Read About the Book, The Table of Contents, and Anatole’s Introduction. The only problem I have with ‘About’ and the ‘Intro’ is the use of the word ‘culled’. The projects are not ‘culled’ – they have been carefully selected for quality and variety.

While the projects previously appeared in the magazine, this book presents the material in a new, consistent layout and re-edit. Its not just a series of reprints of the magazine pages. However, unlike some other magazine article anthologies, all of the original material has been retained. None were ‘shortened’ to fit a space allocation.

If you are a FWW ‘on-line member’, you might be asking yourself ‘Why buy the book? I can see all this on-line’. Well, yes – you can view the original article on-line. But if you are like me, you print out the PDF anyway so you can study and mark it up before starting. Black and white in my case. With the book, you have the consistent new layout, re-edit, and everything in color. And in a book you can take with you to read in the Dentist’s waiting room..

As an ‘on-line member’ one thing I found myself doing was going to the Video section to look for video projects by the same authors. As an example, Garrett Hack has two projects in this book, ‘Building a Strong, Light Carcase’ and ‘Corner Cupboard’.

Now look on-line at Garrett’s video ‘Build a Small Tool Cabinet’. You will see Garrett hand plane the raised panels, and also use a very clever non-mitered front face frame to side rabbet joint with the edge chamfered so the end grain ‘disappears’ – techniques which can also be applied to the book project.

You can also get ideas by looking at similar project videos by different ‘chefs’, as well as articles by the same authors – such as Garrett’s ‘Huntboard’ project.

I would categorize all the projects as suitable for an ‘Intermediate’ woodworker like myself (three years experience). Nothing is overwhelming – like a Queen Ann sculpted Highboy. If you can make a table, a bookcase, or a blanket chest – you should be able to accomplish any of the projects.

Well worth the $17.95 cost.



Re: Vermont woodworkers display their best

Winning Exhibitors/Demonstrators at the show have now been posted at:

Videos are at:

And a complete list of the Design Competition winners is at:

The 2011 show will be September 24 and 25th.

Worth a trip and visit to Vermont!


Re: Vermont woodworkers display their best

If you are within a few hours drive of Woodstock, VT and did not get to go this year, mark your Calendar for late September next year. A GREAT SHOW - and lots of original work.

I liked the truly original stuff by Brian Bright. Particularly his 'Stripped Cabinet' -

(Website: )

I thought at first the cabinet sides were either coopered or laminated. No - they were tapered strips put together using beads fitted to cove sockets. A boatbuilding technique I was unfamiliar with. Really neat.

Attendees get to 'vote' with a paper ballot for their selection of 'Best in Show' - and Brian got my vote (though I had to leave before the winner was announced).

There were also some neat 'demonstrators' as well as the exhibitors. Among these was Woodturner-Teacher Richard Montague - with his Springpole Lathe. Roy Underhill has competition..:>)

As Mark says, a great show.


Re: Help us design a workbench for power-tool lovers


Key question: On your workbench will you be using 'benchtop' versions of stationary machines - such as perhaps the Grizzly G0505 12 1/2" planer (a Great machine for $295, IMHO)?

If so, I suggest three 20A minimum circuits. One for dust collection/shop vac. One for the benchtop stationary machine. One for hand tools (sander, router, nail gun/compressor, etc.).

Otherwise, without the large benchtop machines, two circuits, assuming you are the only one working at the bench, should do it.

I get away with a single 20A 110V service to my entire new 12 x 16 shop. Its an outbuilding about 150 feet from the main house, and when my Dad put in the 'mower shed' (maybe 8 x 10) that is next to it, he only had it wired for a single 20A line. Currently I run heavy 12ga extension cords from that, and it actually works fine. Lights, small electric heater, shop vac - and one other machine at a time..:>)


Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Traditional Projects from the New Best of Fine Woodworking

Looks like an intereting group of projects!

Re: Help us design a workbench for power-tool lovers


You can combine the MFT precision hole top with a sacrificial MDF top.

Whenever I'm using my TS-55 with my MFT 1080s, or doing anything else that might damage or mar the top, I simply place 2 sheets of 2' by 4' 1/4" MDF on top. These are slightly trimmed to leave one row of holes on 3 sides, all except the front.

When I need 'more holes' for clamping etc. - I simply remove the 1/4" MDF.


Re: Help us design a workbench for power-tool lovers

Hi Asa,

I agree with mouppe - a lot can be learned from the Festool MFT, including all the attachments, both Festool and third party (like QWAS dogs). It is designed specifically for power tool use - and is 'the one to beat' - or at least try to equal, IMHO.

I've two MFT 1080's joined short-end to short-end with the Festool connector bars designed for the purpose. Gives a bench almost 8' long and 27" or so wide - its my primary bench in my little 12 x 16 shop.

That said, the workbench you and Matt Berger did in season 2 Beginning Woodworking might be a place to start. Keep the double-sheet MDF top - but add a hole grid like the MFT How to do this would be interesting to see - the MFT grid is very precise, can be used to assure square or various angles, as well as holding and clamping.

Add side T-rail track like the MFT - but also at the top along each edge, too. Possibly some track recessed into the top running between the holes.

I've sometimes thought of buying just the 1080 top(s) for $99, and the long MFT siderails - and making a bigger, more sturdy, MFT. But so far my double-1080 is working out just fine for both hand tool and power tool use.

Maybe also Google 'Jerry Work Festool' - and see what he has done with the MFT, too. ( Might be worth paying him a visit for his ideas as well.


Re: FWW editor in Vermont

This is a great show. Well worth it if you are within a few hours of getting there.

As mentioned, it is simultaneous with the Marsh-Billings National Historic Park 'Open House Forest Weekend' -

Shuttles run back and forth between the Union Arena and the Park.

Get to the Arena at opening - 10AM. You will be able to cover it OK in 3 hours - then leave at 1 PM for Marsh-Billings.


Re: 7 Great Books for Getting Started in Woodworking

Hi Gina,

Two additional books I found useful when beginning, and that I still use often today, are:

Nick Engler's 'Woodworking Wisdom' ISBN 0-87596-651-9. This is a concise woodworking encyclopedia - covers a bit of almost everything. I often use it for checking typical sizing/dimensions before starting a project.

Bill Hylton's 'Illustrated Cabinetmaking. How to Design and Construct Furniture that Works' ISBN 978-1-56523-369-0. Out of print for years, used copies were selling for up to $100! Recently reprinted in softcover, this has a wealth of basic information, plus many furniture projects of all types.

Take a look at them if you haven't seen them before.

You are likely to find good used copies of these and some of your other books at - a central clearing house for many independent booksellers.


Re: Handplane Primer: What's the difference between bench and block planes?

Hi Matt,

Nice concise video! Good advice on the cheap planes, too.

But I suggest a new user need not necessarily go as expensive as your nice LN smoother and jack..

After a number of false starts with old ebay planes etc., I ended up with an LV block and 4 1/2 BU smoother, and a full set of Woodriver V2s. Very happy with them all.

Will you be doing the reviews of the new Woodriver V3s?


Re: Steam bending simplified

Hi Matt,
What did you decide about the kitchen wall cabinets? Look like they might be solid Oak?? OK? Live with the mismatched grain and the tombstone raised panels...? Or new doors and paint? Or??

Be sure to show us, whatever you do..:>)


Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Making Ladder Back Chairs with Russ Filbeck

Wow! An $85 chair making book! Can't wait..

Re: Play Against the Grain: The Wrong Way to Rip

Rob's accident could happen to anyone, experienced or not.

One more reason I dislike using a table saw and always use an alternative when I can - bandsaw, or more often, my Festool TS-55 track saw and MFT 1080. Safe, great crosscuts, great rips, easy angle cuts.

And a complete Festool TS-55, Track(s), MFT/3, parallel guide(s), etc. is far less $$ than a Sawstop. (Its Festool $$$$$$ pricing remember..:>.

Plus you can rip an 8' board in say a 12' space. Not 16' plus..

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Wharton Esherick Studio & Collection

Looks Interesting for sure!

Re: Defense Outgunned in Osorio Tablesaw Lawsuit

Perhaps its been mentioned, but a case could have been made that the BTS-15 was the wrong tool for the job to begin with.

Something like the $160 (Amazon) Skil 3600-02 120-Volt Flooring Saw should have been used by the flooring contractor.

Or perhaps a more typical tracksaw - like the TS-55 and MFT that was used by Tom Silva in a recent 'This Old House' series. (Tom was shown using a TS-55 when installing stairs).

While I personally still do believe that Ryobi and the rest of the table saw manufactureres are indeed negligent by not providing 'best engineering practice' (Sawstop technology) in their products, I also believe that Osorio's employer should have been held largly responsible for the accident.

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: 1st five "issues" of The Missing Shop Manual series

Thanks Betsy..:>)

Re: Is the Radial Arm Saw on its Last Legs?

I also vote for extinct.

We have an old Craftsman RAS in our Zellwood, FL community shop. More than once, with thick stock crosscuts, the thing wants to jump out at you. Plus it never holds square.

We now have a new Dewalt compound sliding miter saw - far more precise. But we now have to remind everyone it works on a 'push stroke' - not like the RAS 'pull'. Easy to screw up.

Myself, give me my Festool TS-55 track saw for both wide crosscuts and safe ripcuts anytime.

And for small parts, get a PROXXON miniature TS.

Re: Do woodworkers hold the key to a quick clean-up of the gulf oil spill?

I was aware that Costner had 'huge' centrifuges - but not the details, except not many of them. 32. From the article epirnik referenced, it seems Costner's machines can each process approximately 10,000 GPH (if I did the math right)

A 250$ Trash Pump (ex: does 200 GPM, or roughly 12,000 GPH. I have no idea how much 'thruput' a single washing machine might provide - lets guess 1000 GPH.

So perhaps a bank of 12 washing machines @ $250/ea = $3,000.
Trash Pump $250. Add fabrication, generator(s) for the washing machines - and maybe you have what? $10,000 for each bank?

More importantly, the components are mostly already manufactured. And available by the 1000's if not 10,000's.

More of Costner's purpose built machines, which I sure hope work, will have an unfortunate manufacturing lead time to get more of them..

And what does a Costner machine cost? (though this should be seen as the least of any problem) $1M?

Meaning we might get 100 trash pump/washing machine systems for the same money - and 100x the cleaning thruput.

But as Doug (indirectly) observed, the 'this is not really a crisis' BP (and Obama unfortunately) mindset, means it would never get even a passing thought by these (non?) 'decision-makers'

Re: Where do editors come from?

Great story, Asa. And if I may say so, your liking the job and being talented at it, has resulted in the best woodworking magazine available today - FWW of course..:>)

I eagerly look forward to each new issue. And keep up the new approaches - like the upcoming 'built-in shootout'. I think we really learn by looking simultaneously at different approaches. Same with your earlier 'surface finish shootout' with Mike.

Great stuff..


Re: Man Wins Big Money in Tablesaw Lawsuit

I know I'm in the minority here, but I do think - Osorio aside - that anyone using a tablesaw without 'flesh sensing technology' but with its supplied guards in place, and who suffers in injury from the blade, would have a liability case against the saw manufacturer.

Few would argue that BP is not responsible for the Gulf disaster after clearly not using 'best available engineering practice' to prevent such blowouts.

To me its the same with tablesaws. 'Best available engineering practice' in tablesaw manufacturing today would - again to me - incorporate Sawstop technology. I believe not offering it clearly, fairly, and correctly, puts manufacturers at risk for liability suits due to blade contact.

I happen to have a Ryobi BTS10 $99 tablesaw. It is what you would expect to get for $99 - terrible. I rarely use it, and then only for ripping 5/4 6" cedar decking for outdoor furniture. With the plastic guard, anti-kickback pawls, and splitter in place. Even then its extremely dangerous. In part because the lousey fence nevers clamps parallel to the blade. Even after carefully trying to clamp the fence parallel, there is almost always a slight out-of-parallel 'included angle' between the blade and the fence. So you start the rip, and partway thru the stock binds up. Whats the 'usual' reaction? 'Push Harder' - EXACTLY what you should not do. I hate the thing.

Until I can afford a Sawstop, I now almost always use my Festool TS-55 track saw and MFT 1080 for all my crosscuts and rips. I can rip or crosscut 2 pieces of 3/4" Red Oak together - 1.5" total, without any effort, while feeling in complete control and absolutely safe (angled sides of Paolini's #74 Stickley Book Rack). In fact, this works so well I may never get a Sawstop.

In conclusion, if you too dislike using a tablesaw, and also cannot afford a sawstop - consider the track saw alternate. Yes, for straight rips it may seem slower. But for crosscuts, and particularly any angled cuts - I think its actually faster than using a tablesaw.

Re: Do woodworkers hold the key to a quick clean-up of the gulf oil spill?


RE: Earlier Post - Trash Pump Centrifuges

Even crazier might be to modify ordinary washing machines 'spin cycle' to provide the centrifugal action for separation.

There are of course millions of washing machines.

Lock the machines on 'spin' - modify the input/output flow. Perhaps even combine with a trash pump feed.

The machines burn-up in a few hours? They go back for rebuild..


Re: Do woodworkers hold the key to a quick clean-up of the gulf oil spill?

Hi Matt,

There is actually an EPA sitee where you can make suggestions:

Here was my 6/4 submission - based on our woodworking 'cyclonic dust collection systems':

"Describe the mechanical process that can be used to remove oil from seawater and/or fresh water."

We have Costner's huge centrifuges:

Now think Dunkirk - where thousands of little fishing boats and any tub that floated successfully evacuated over 100,000 stranded English soldiers.

Apply the same thinking with the centrifuge principle.

Commandeer every available commercial trash pump in the country. Fabricate 1000's of small scale centrifuges - using simple 55 gal or other tanks - with tangential inputs for the trash pumps - creating centrifigal flow - where the oil can be separated from the water. (This principle is used in commercial woodworking 'dust collection' all the time.)

As the oil is separated - burn it.

Comandeer every floating tub in the region to deploy the centifuges - in a continuous unbroken line (like trench warfare) - to stop the landfall of the spill.

Put the Army/National Guard callup to execute it.

"Principle of Operation"

Centrifugal removal of oil - using 1000's if not 10,000's of commercial trash pump based crude small-scale centrifuges"

Not surprisingly, I never heard anything..:>)


Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Getting the Most from your Wood-Buying Bucks

Looks interesting!

If I win, I will report.


Re: BOOK GIVEAWAY: 500 Tables (Updated with winner)

Fire Photon Torpedoes! Fire! Fire!

Re: Help name Tommy MacDonald's new woodworking show

D J Marks Full Episodes

Thanks Marckostac,

Great to watch the full episodes!

Just FYI everyone - you will need to modify Marcostac's URL with the show number - not only '210.asp', but 211.asp, 212.asp - whatever. The number list and project title is on David's website. Under 'TV' tab.

Unfortunately, David does not have DIY video links to every one. But what there is - is top rank!

You can also print out cut lists for each project. And in some cases full plans are available to be purchased from David.

Re: Help name Tommy MacDonald's new woodworking show

Since its been a few years since WoodWorks was last run on DIY Network, possible some new FWW/Knots readers have not seen it.

As far as I know, complete streaming episodes are not available on DIY Network (others know differently?) - but segments of shows are. For example, here is the beginning segment of an Arts and Crafts Spice Rack:

Put 'David Marks in the Search Bar 'Find Projects, How-tos, and Experts advice - and I get 143 of these segments.

Here is the Search result when I did this:

You can piece the segments together with a bit of browsing thru all of them.

WoodWorks is - for me - the 'standard of comparison' for Tommy's new over-the-air TV show.

The only other videos that I think are equal are FWW's own 'member' project series, Matts Garden Bench and Boxes, Garrett Hacks recent Tool Cabinet, many others..

Re: Help name Tommy MacDonald's new woodworking show

Has a pilot been done? If so, where can we view it?

As mentioned above, 'hammer and chisel' sounds disappointing, to say the least.

Where is this show going to be positioned? Nearer 'Woodsmith Shop'? Or 'WoodWorks' (David Marks)?

IMHO, WoodWorks is the best woodworking TV series ever made - Norm included.

I have nothing against Tommy McDonald - don't know anything about him. But if WGBH might re-think - why not Marks for the new show?

West Coast the problem? Maybe we petition KQED..:>)

Re: Calling all Vermont woodworkers

Just to second Mark's view - this is a great show if you want to see beautiful custom work, and chat with some of the best makers around New England. Well worth the trip.


Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Wood Finishing Fixes by Michael Dresdner

Q&A format sounds good...

Re: Borrowing Tools

Loan out tools? Depends on the tool. Of course

Loan out my TS-55? No way. My 25-year old Skilsaw? No problem.

My Lee Vally Veritas BU Smoother? Again no way. But I do have a truly horible #4 chinese Footprint should I be asked.

My Router and Router bits? No - not at all. I forget who said loaning out your router bits is like loaning out your toothbrush..

Come to think of it, the 'toothbrush' answer should be a good one for all our tools... "My XXX is just like my toothbrush. I wouldn't loan it out - and you shouldn't want to use it..."

Re: UPDATE: Book Giveaway: Civil War Woodworking by A.J. Hamler

Interesting to see if the Confederate pieces are mostly SYP - and the North? Walnut? Cherry? or what?

Re: The Woodworking Shows

Hi Roland,

Any chance that FWW could videotape one of the handplane clinics for viewing later by readers who can't attend in person?

Preferably the entire class/clinic - not just a 5 minute excerpt?

Don't woory about tight editing. I'm sure many of us enjoy stuff like this 'as it happens' - like with the recent 'live' cherry table 'finishing shootout' with Asa, Mike, and Anatole.

In fact, why not do it live, just like the shootout?

Best Regards,

Re: How to make a bandsaw in a pinch

Bosch used to (may still?) make an aluminum adapter for their jigsaws to do the same thing. I don't think it was sold here in the us, but I found and ordered mine from the UK couple years back.


Re: FREE PLAN: Rip Fence Extension: A Safer Way to Cut Plywood

Sorry to beat a dead horse, but for a lone woodworker trying to break down a 70 lb sheet of 3/4 ply - there is no easier solution than a Festool TS-55 and rail system and a 'sacrificial' sheet of cheap CDX. Move a 10lb saw instead of a 70lb sheet.

Don't dismiss it until you try it. The TS-55 is perhaps the one Festool actually worth its outrageous price. And you can return it in 30 days if for some reason you don't like it.

Great unbelievable edges. Here is an example:

(I do not work for Festool, either,,:>)


Re: Wood Shop Al Fresco

Hi Stephany,

I also have an 'outside shop' at my Adirondack camp. Little different approach - I cleaned out the junk in our 'mower shed' (mowers too - they are outside) - an 8 x 10 - and now 'roll out' my tools to the gravel driveway in front of it when I use my 'shop'..

For both space and cost I bought Hitachi benchtop bandsaw, drill press, and belt sander. They work - the bandsaw particularly is nice for bevelled backs of Adirondack chairs because the saw tilts - not the table. Also Ryobi mitersaw and 10" table saw (Home Depot), router table mounted in a workmate, Sunhill 12" planer. I wouldn't want to work 8/4 Oak with this stuff - but for Western Red Cedar and White Pine - they are fine. And my favorite - a Festool TS-55 plunge saw/guide system. Next week, I'll bring up an MFT. (The TS-55 is perhaps the one Festool worth its cost - it is really great. Here is an example of what I used it for outside:

Thoughts: Can some part of the deck be enclosed on three sides with a shed roof top - and perhaps your marine fabric used as a roll down/drop down 'door'? Here the rain is really a pita - I now keep the bandsaw and the drill press in the shed and use them there undercover - the rest I roll out when I use them.

That said - the rain is the worst. I also would really like to be in the shop when it rains - and thats a lot more here in the Adirondacks than at SF.

If I can somehow find the money I am looking at possibly a 'sheds-r-us'-type prefab from Home Depot - 12 x 16. Almost 200 sf! I will be in Hog Heaven - comparatively..

Good Luck!

Re: Calling all benchtop warriors


I also heavily use my Festool TS-55 at my Adirondack Summer Shop, and am bringing up an MFT to there next week as well.

I do use sheet goods up there as well as the 5/4 cedar and pine - and the Festool makes it possible for one person to handle them easily. Plus - you will not believe the edge cut quality you get with that thing.

Yes, horribly overpriced - but perhaps the one Festool product that is actually worth the money paid.

A great 'benchtop tool' you might consider adding to your set.

Re: UPDATE: Unlocking the Secrets of Traditional Design

I would think this DVD would improve anyone's woodworking skillset - just as all the videos here at the FWW website do.

One of the main reasons I signed up for full FWW site access is the videos - plus access to all the past great articles.

While that is a 'library in itself' - additional DVDs are always welcome!

Re: Calling all benchtop warriors

The inexpensive Hitachi benchtop bandsaw is great. The saw tilts rather than the table - making it perfect for cutting stuff like the beveled top back support of an Adirondack chair.

I also have the Hitachi benchtop sander and drillpress. Plus Ryobi (Home Depot) BTS10 table saw, and Ryobi 10" miter Saw.

Finally a Sunhill 12" benchtop planer and Router mounted in a Workmate.

All At my Adirondack camp as my 'Summer Workshop'

I'm not sure I'd want to build an Oak Morris Chair with this stuff, but they all work just fine with the 5/4 Western Red Cedar decking and 1" White Pine I use for Summer projects.

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