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The gov't wants to protect us from our own stupidity, but who is protecting us from theirs, and who told them they should or could?
The truth comes out; the cost of adding the SawStop technology to a saw Gass quoted as $100 or less. If that's the case, why are they charging $1000 for a POS that's really just a $400 saw?
I can just imagine the thing going off prematurly while using a $120 dado set, or any high buck blade.
If that's the only thing I will be able to buy in the future, I guess I'll just have to get much better with handtools.
It's good for them to forewarn us - for me, it's off to the saw store to fill future needs.
A new low has been found. The selections are as poor as the photography.
I saw the 'blade guard removed for clarity', and don't know how they would show the excess blade height as part of the kickback issue with the guard in place. I did waste a lot of points on the sleeves and ring looking for that last item. I didn't see the board in the picture as long enough to need outfeed support if a proper pushstick were to be in use.
Many years ago the RAS was the first saw on a building site. I learned to use it to rip, dado, crosscut, etc, as others have commented. I rarely see them on a jobsite since the young guys haven't learned what to do with them. They do the same tasks in ways I consider more time-consuming or dangerous. Dancing long stock across a tabletop table saw with a makeshift outfeed support is acceptable it seems, as is trimming and clearing a rafter perch freehand with a circular saw. But since there is always the fear of the unknown or misunderstood, these same guys look at a RAS as dangerous.
In my own shop I have an old 5Hp 14" Porter Cable RAS. They are as distinctly different from a cheap RAS as is a tabletop table saw different from a cabinet saw. I have it in line with, and sharing a common fence with, my chop saws. If I want a quick and dirty cut, the chop saws can do the job. If I want a very precise cut, or just want to enjoy the luxury of the silky smooth sound and feel, I'll make the cut with the RAS.
I may be a tad older than some of the readers, but I do remember when the handplane was also considered dead by many woodworkers. I took a while for people to realize that the belt sander didn't actually do the same job and was not a good substitute. It rarely is beneficial to compare unlike objects as if they are actually alike.
Looks like the same formula as Scott Phillips used on his show before he twisted the show and used it to build a mini mansion for himself. How many NYW episodes did the likes of Lonnie Bird appear in to show skills beyond that of the host? I think someone referred to him as Mr. Milktoast, but as a fine woodworker, he is far above Norm. Scott is a furniture builder, Norm is a finish carpenter. The distinction between furniture and carpentry is hard for many to see, but I think that may be who the greatest potential audience is, the great unwashed. Maybe Home Depot should be a sponsor in that case.
I see PapaWhiskey has also noticed the Taunton magazines are recycling material. Methods of work being a very common recycle bin.
Much of what was already written is about awareness. I also believe that to be the key. Any legislation written cannot supplant the need for immediate understanding of, and attention to your situation. The only thing more stupid than the mistakes that cause these injuries is the belief that any code, rule, or law will prevent them.
Part of my training was working for a large university in a shop that had a 14", 7hp monster of a table saw. I saw it kick back a 2x6 that was being ripped. The board penetrated a concrete block wall. The older guy running the saw was not injured because he did have the habit of staying out of the line of the work, but had 'other things on his mind', was trying to rush through a bunch of knots joined together by a few bits of wood and didn't take the time to let the saw do its job. It was powerful enough to eat it's way through most binds if you went slowly enough. The notion that hold-downs like fingerboards of any sort would tame this beast were always proven wrong. It forced us to learn and use good technique. Good technique is the first thing that should be learned. Any safeties and guards should work in concert with that good technique. I do use lots of fingerboards, etc., but not in an effort to make an unsafe situation safe.
I have been reading Finewoodworking for many years and have appreciated the job they do for the art and science of woodworking, and journalism in general. The decline in the past few years doesn't need elaboration here, but I am still surprised that they have not compiled very much useful information for teaching general table saw safety and the good technique that supports it. Even on a basic level. They have not produced anything I could give to one of my grandsons and feel confident he would learn what he needs to know, that he would have a comprehensive reference on basic technique and how it relates to safety. Maybe an item for Taunton to consider.
There are those of us who can proudly show ten whole and intact, and even wrinkly, fingers that are prove that one can be safe for years without a Sawstop or government-mandated guards. I know where all my guards are - when an inspector shows up on a job, the brand-new-looking guards quickly find their way onto the not-so-new-looking machines. Nobody is fooled, but also on each job I post a #DAYS WITHOUT INJURY sign where everyone sees it, including safety inspectors, upon entry. We are presently in the 800s. I think that says volumns.
On this same e-mail is a display of some of the work from Kinloch Woodworking. How much of that could be done by a CNC? The Carlston chest or the bombe desk finial?
CNC details are limited to what can be produced by a rotating bit. Crisp inside corners, for example, just don't happen on a CNC any more than they will with a router.
Sadly, the volumn of cheap furniture from China that is sold every day is a huge temptation, and many yield to that temptation.
True craftsmanship is still in demand, and thankfully, still alive.
Beautiful wood! I have never played with chokecherry, and would love a follow-up to know what it works like. I have cut and tried to use just about everything that grows in this area. The chokecherry trees are scrub-sized, rarely reaching 3" diameter.
I try to cut the wood as long as I can handle, and let the logs dry as much as possible after PEGing or painting the ends. If I cut them before they dry, I will cut them thick knowing I will resaw them.
The grain in some plum trees I harvested spiralled more than 360 degreees in a 4' piece. Had I slabbed them wet, even with good stickering, the stresses would have made them useless.
We no longer use any grinding wheels. We have switched to a 1" X 42" belt sander. They heat less quickly, are more consistent, and less expensive to refresh than round wheels. Unlike your belt sanders, the machines are made for use in machine shops - cutting metal. They cost about the same as a grinder of equal quality, and are considered safer than rotating stones. They don't, in standard use, give a hollow grind, but taking advantage of the hollow wasn't included as part of Asa's presentation.
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