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I'm trying to use just half the basement. The inside door is actually strips of plastic hanging from the top of the door frame. This keeps the dust out but…
Well this is an interesting approach for those interested in improving the safety of the saw they use.
This is fantastic, especially if you can not afford a saw stop but want to increase the safety of your saw. Heck, if you wanted to be properly safe with a saw stop you still would use a blade guard as you never want to touch a blade even if an explosive device stops it when you do. At least I don't want to ever touch a spinning blade.
I think if I was a shop owner with paid staff and wanted to see about decreasing my insurance costs I would ask my insurer if adding this to a saw stop would bring my costs down. If it was in my budget I probably would do it not matter what.
With this system on a saw stop you would achieve a layered safety system. First we have a way to detect if you are getting to close to the blade then if you get past that, the saw stop would stop the blade. Now that's text book industrial safety to keep the lawyers off your back and your staff safe no matter what stupid things they do on a table saw - provided they did not remove the safety equipment.
However, as a person who in his distant past use to be an industrial safety instructor/inspector . . . it will not improve the safety of an unsafe operator on a construction site, or in a shop environment.
The thing is you have to want to work safe to use this product or the saw stop. Seriously, if you always use a fence, the blade guard that comes with the saw and use push sticks you will be safe. This is why many of us are not willing to purchase these devices.
For example. . . how many of you commenting on this would do a reverse cut or my favorite which I see all the time on construction sites . . . . rip a 2x4 or 2x6 without a fence or for that matter without a fence and riving knife. I can't do it . . . period . . . . in my life I was trained and mentored how to properly operate tools. From my father to everyone else around me. I have always worked in an environment that if coworkers saw you do stupid things like this you would be approached and employers who would have fired you . . . . . . probably on the spot.
Bottom line. . . . unless you have had good training and a third party is present to enforce good practices on ignorant and stupid operators . . no removable safety device will protect you.
Take the case where the guy successfully sued for getting his hand cut and he operated the saw without a single safety device on the saw. All saws come with very clear instructions with pictures and some even with safety placards you can put up. This kind of person is not going to purchase something with safety in mind because clearly they don't care about safety and the fact that they operate a saw this way clearly proves it . . . except in a court of law :-)
When I use to give safety classes I always added at the end “You are only as safe as you want to be and of those around you. Nothing can force you to be safe but YOU”.
Well this is a different approach to a sled.
One interesting thing I noticed was with 2 fences if you put a block between them in the middle you get excellent blade protection for your hands. With a block covering the blade, you can rest your hands between the 2 fences which keeps your hands away from the blade even more then a single fence sled. Although you certainly can put a block behind the fence for blade protection, you would still have your hands on the blade side of the fence.
I'm not even going to approach all the discussion about the details mentioned above. I think the main point of Matt's sled is the double fence. All the tuning stuff ya do for a fence and saw still applies and are moot points. I just think the meat of the idea is the double fence.
I'm going to give the sled a try.
Thanks for sharing !!
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