ScreenSander

Haarlem, NH, NL
member

Recent comments

Re: UPDATE: Refinishing Furniture Made Simple (with DVD) by Jeff Jewitt

Just bought some shellack to make French Polish for refinishing my mahogany furniture. Just the right time to learn "how to" from this expert, Jeff Jewitt!

posted: 2:30 pm on September 9th

Re: Shop Talk Live 14: Who Needs Half-Blind Dovetails?

I would like to counter with the question "Who needs podcasts?"
After five minutes there was still nothing of interest. The prospect of having to listen for another hour put me off completely. Please bring back the well-made video's or the well written pdf's that take 5 minutes at most to digest! They inspire! Podcasts make me fall asleep. Am I alone in this?

posted: 3:37 pm on September 8th

Re: Does MDF Belong in Fine Furniture?

As to sealing MDF before painting: in the Netherlands where I live we have special MDF primer which works like a dream, specially for the edges. It is water-based (!) and it dries very quickly.
But for edges one can just as well use ordinary wood-glue. If you glue a strip of MDF onto a leaf to make it look twice as thick then I recommend sanding the (clamped) double-thick edge BEFORE the glue is dry. That way the glue-line becomes invisible and the edge gets sealed at the same time!
And yes, make sure all sides get at least a coat of primer to avoid warping...

posted: 6:24 am on December 3rd

Re: Behold, the Speed Tenon

This method is - imho - inherently unsafe and should not be promoted by FWW. The risk of binding to the fence during the first cut is very real, specially if fence and blade are not perfectly parallel. If they happen to converge even slightly when pushing the workpiece through you are really playing with fire, specially when working on a piece of hardwood. The dimensions of the piece also play a role.
Secondly, pushing the blade sideways will spoil the blade bearings.

It takes hardly more time to use a light sled with proper hinge-removable(!) stop-block and pushing it through several times, moving the wood each time a few mm towards the left (away from the blade), afterwards cleaning-up with chisel, file or sandpaper if necessary. Excellent jigs have been described in various issues of FWW that promote safe practice. They work quicker BECAUSE they are safer!

My suggestion: ignore Chris Becksvoort's "technique" even if it works for him!

posted: 7:41 am on November 5th