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I had the same thought when I saw it last night - he simplifies for the sake of comedy. But the piece suggests that SawStop is a no-brainer and you wouldn't use it only if you believe in your right to cut your fingers off.
The 'safety at any cost' argument could have been explored with similar humor but perhaps is somewhat subtle.
Wow, this guy is better with his feet than I am with my hands.
I wonder how he sharpens the chisel? It looks mighty sharp.
Excellent points Asa. I keep trying to remind people that every safety feature (short of the fuse) was removed from that little saw and that it was being used in the most unsafe manner possible.
Mine is based on personal experience. When ripping a relatively thin (less than 3" wide) but long piece, perhaps when ripping a 2x4 in half, use hold-downs to keep the board pressed tight to the fence and table in addition to the fingers that should be part of the back of your bladeguard or riving knife. Long pieces can (too) easily shift and get pinched between the blade and the fence and become dangerous projectiles. Getting punched in the gut by what amounts to a wooden spike is a painful experience that could be life-threatening.
Same here. I find myself wishing I could undo, select Edit Component, then redo. It is frustrating.
Great video Tim! That certainly eliminates any confusion regarding that section.
When using Follow Me to create the bevel on the bottom of the drawer for the post table (page 62, step 55/56) I was unable to get SketchUp v8 (8.0.3117) to use the Follow Me tool with the trapezoid shape as a component and follow the preselected line. I had to Explode the shape first, then it would Follow Me. I couldn't figure out a way to preselect the line, then Edit the component and use Follow Me - it always lost track of the preselected path.
Can you use Follow Me with a component in preselect mode?
Thanks Tim, I did in fact miss that statement about the centerline despite reading it several times .
On Page 49, figure 16, I believe the tenon length should be 11/16" and not 1-1/16" as it says.
On Page 50, Step 19, I don't believe you want to mortise the legs for the upper front stretcher until you make the back legs unique.
Still having a great time learning! Thanks!
Downloaded the book at went through the first seven chapters. This book is excellent and exactly what I was looking for to get started with SketchUp. I highly recommend it.
I ran into a few issues with Chapter 7 and I figured I would post them here. It certainly could be me misreading or misunderstanding what was intended but if it helps somebody else I figure posting it here can't hurt.
Page 31, Step 4, first paragraph - I think there is a missing instruction to select and edit the component on the Top? Overall, this paragraph and the next one were very confusing. I got it eventually but it is a bit awkward.
Page 32, Figure 8 - missing an instruction to draw a tape measure line at the midpoint of the side piece.
Page 32, Step 9 - missing instruction to create component Front Skirt.
Page 34, Step 12 - second paragraph should really be Step 13 (creating the dadoes in the bottom and top), it made it easy to miss that second paragraph when working through the lesson.
Page 35, Step 16 - should say to select and edit the components (top and side) instead of simply select.
Here are my thoughts, after trying to figure out this exact thing for several months. It isn't easy to look at the various innovations through the lens of "what's best for my power tools and usage" given the huge number of ideas out there and the various options to choose from when it comes to T-tracks and metal clamping options.
- I can't imagine using anything other than a maple top. Its just so heavy and strong and looks like a woodworker's bench. I appreciate completely my benches made from solid core doors and laminated MDF, but they just don't look like a woodworker's bench to me.
- I think round dog holes are a must. They let you clamp at unusual angles and hold pieces in a way that square dog holes don't. They are also much easier to machine into that maple top :).
- Overhead power is a lot more valuable to me than power on the side or power underneath. I have extension cord reels and power plugs over the bench to keep the cords out of the way during use.
- That said, I very much appreciate having an easy to use dust collector under the bench. A way to downdraft through the dog holes might be nirvana but I haven't done that yet (it would mean building something under the table to channel the air and I can't figure out how to do that easily.)
- To leverage those dog holes, I decided on a full-width twin-screw tail vise with aligned dog holes. The trick to working with power tools is to keep the dogs low - below the workpiece mostly. I also focus on using this instead of clamps whenever possible as I keep finding the clamp is in my way when routing or sanding or whatever.
- I also decided on a patternmakers vise (Emmert clone) but I haven't installed it yet. It just feels like it has more utility than a front-mounted standard vise but I'll have to see after I have it installed.
- I also went with storage space underneath to hold the various tools in their cases (jigsaw, circular saw, biscuit jointer, drills, sanders, etc.)
- The one detail I love about the Festool MFT is the guide rail system for circular saws. I just didn't feel that it was worth the pain of those side tracks to get it. I have a cheap aluminum rail I clamp and use when I need it, but its not as convenient as the Festool I'm sure.
I can't wait to see what you come up with as I think this is a very interesting topic!
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