I wish you guys had asked Mr. Howard what he thought about the ethics of paying millions of dollars to have Congress lobbied to pass legislation that would effectively help him create a monopoly. Not to mention price most wood workers out of ever owning quality cabinet saw.I'm very disappointed with you guys.Next time why don't you guys interview the retired engineer who designed a safety stop using D.C. current to instantaneously kill the motor and the blade. Not only can his be retro fitted to you,r existing saw,but it a fraction of the cost.
great work man! I also have Glenn's book on period furniture and have wanted to build that clock.If you had to guess, how many board feet of material should I order.Thanks,Rob.
Nice shop,I myself have a large shop. I was wondering how you cool your space. Central air or wall mounted units. It gets unbearabley hot in my space .
very nice,how long did it take to build?
a 10 " blade is more accurate than a 12" because there is less "deflection". I think a 12" blade is appropriate on a standard chop saw to acomadate crown.However anything that you can not cut on a slider standing up ,you can all ways cut on the flat.And so in that case a 10" saw is the way to go.I have a Bosch 10" slider and like it vary much.That being said it has limitations. I'm a journeymen carpenter, and in the field,the chop saw 's king when it comes to trim.But in the shop I seem to favor my table saw because of it precision and accuracy. My chop saw still has a place in my shop.Compound miters,rough cuts, repetitive cuts.But when accuracy counts, especially on wide pieces,I make my cuts on the table saw.
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